3 water heater questions???

patrick1945

Well-known member
My DW complained this AM that the water was not "real hot". Yesterday a hot water faucet was left on for about 2 hours while we were gone and the gray tanks were open. So this AM I decided that we should turn the propane on in addition to the electric.

We have only used the electric option with the water heater. Until today the "small rocker" for propane has always been switched off.

1. Is there a connection between the faucet on the fact that the water was not "real hot" this AM? There was 45 psi of water going in to the water heater.

2. If the heater no longer works on electric how can I tell if it is the heating element that is the problem?

3. If it is the heating element where can I get one on the web and is there a special tool that is required to do the replacement?
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
If the water ran that long, it might be possible that the heating element gave up the ghost. You should be able to check it for continuity (ohm meter). To remove it, you will need a special wrench made for that, but they're available at Lowe's or Home Depot, where they sell elements for less than $10. The elements they sell come in different lengths, so you might have to remove the old one and take it to the store to get the right size. You could also try a plumbing shop for the element and wrench. It could be that the Hi-Limit switch tripped, too, and the element is fine. On the face of the water heater are two black rubber "buttons." One is the limit switch for 12V, the other for 120V. Press them both. You may hear a click telling you the switch has been closed again.

The Home Depot link will show you the wrench and the elements.


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...d=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Before you do all that work on your water heater go make sure that the shower faucets are turned off and that the outdoor shower faucets are turned off.

If you left them and the button on the shower head is keeping it turned off, the water will circulate from the hot and cold through the water heater. I had this happen to me some time ago.

Our water heater gets the water hot enough that you don't want to hold your hand under the water tap with only the hot water faucet turned on.

Let us know if this is the cause..

BC
 

Rickhansen

Well-known member
Patric1945,
For #1. Your electric water heater element is about a 1400 watt element. It takes a good while to heat 12 gallons of cold water, but I'd expect no more than maybe an hour or two on it's own.
For #2. The electric element is under a plastic cover. If you are familiar with electric circuits and a multimeter, you should verify that there is 120 volts on the terminals of the electric element when you know it is calling for heat (IE Cold Water in the tank). If you have 120 volts AC there, then you know that the power feed and controls are working. Then turn the power off, verify it is off/de-energized with your meter, and then remove one wire from the screw terminal and check continuity of the element (between the two terminals). You should read about 12 ohms.
For #3. I like pplmotorhomes.com They have a good selection of parts, many diagrams and parts lists, so you can learn/understand how to troubleshoot, disassemble, and repair your equipment. Their not cheap, but no one is.

Good luck.
 

westxsrt10

Perfict Senior Member
Before you do all that work on your water heater go make sure that the shower faucets are turned off and that the outdoor shower faucets are turned off.

If you left them and the button on the shower head is keeping it turned off, the water will circulate from the hot and cold through the water heater. I had this happen to me some time ago.

Our water heater gets the water hot enough that you don't want to hold your hand under the water tap with only the hot water faucet turned on.

Let us know if this is the cause..

BC
THIS^^^^^^^
Great advise to try first.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
An OHM meter is a tool that should be in your tool box. They sure come in handy for trouble shooting.
Last year I had the same problem as you. I used my OHM meter to check out the element and it did check out to be good. Don't know why because it didn't work. I replaced the element and it then worked. So the moral of the story is that the element can read good resistance but not work under load.
Also, be aware that water heater elements come in both 120 volt and 240 volt. Be sure to get the 120 volt for your RV.
If you change your element, use a little lube on the rubber gasket so that it does not get distorted when tightening.

Peace
Dave
 

Gaffer

Well-known member
You can get an ohmmeter for a few bucks at Harbor Freight. Good enough for what you need it for.
 

patrick1945

Well-known member
Just so I haven't confused anyone including myself; the water heater works fine with propane.

Meanwhile I replaced the electric heating element and it still doesn't work on the electric side SO now I am replacing the thermostat.

What can I mess up here after opening the breaker and being careful disconnecting the leads?

If the water ran that long, it might be possible that the heating element gave up the ghost. You should be able to check it for continuity (ohm meter). To remove it, you will need a special wrench made for that, but they're available at Lowe's or Home Depot, where they sell elements for less than $10. The elements they sell come in different lengths, so you might have to remove the old one and take it to the store to get the right size. You could also try a plumbing shop for the element and wrench. It could be that the Hi-Limit switch tripped, too, and the element is fine. On the face of the water heater are two black rubber "buttons." One is the limit switch for 12V, the other for 120V. Press them both. You may hear a click telling you the switch has been closed again.

The Home Depot link will show you the wrench and the elements.


http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...d=10051&catalogId=10053&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1
 

CliffP

Well-known member
Isn't there only one thermostat that controls the water heater? With a bad thermostat it wouldn't work on propane and not electric, right?
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see that you have verified 120V power at the water heater. I would do that be fore I started changing parts.
 

patrick1945

Well-known member
There is power to the thermostat and the electric heater element. The 120 thermostat appears to be fine with the fuse bar in tact.

1. the propane side works
2. there is power to the red toggle inside
3. there is power to the 120 thermostat
4. there is power to the electric heating element
5. that element is new
6. but the electric side doesn't work

What am I missing besides a brain?

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't see that you have verified 120V power at the water heater. I would do that be fore I started changing parts.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Wow, I'm at a loss here. If you have 120 at the element, it has to be heating.......unless the element is bad.
When you checked for power at the element, did you put your probes across the two screws on the element and read 110-120 volts?
Just wondering out loud here cause if there is power at the element that means that all switches, breakers and thermostats are allowing power to it.

Peace
Dave
 

patrick1945

Well-known member
"When you checked for power at the element, did you put your probes across the two screws on the element and read 110-120 volts?"

yes. I'd forget about it until later since we have propane BUT I will be 1300 miles north of the FW for 5 months until I return. So I still have 2 weeks to figure it out.
 
Top