On Board Fresh Water Filtration System

All,

I am in the process of installing an in-line Dual Filter system. And figured I would post up some photos of the progress. The Plan for this Mod is to accomplish the followign

• Remove the Inlet for Fresh Water ( Both the Fill and City - The entire plate will be removed)
• Remove the Black Tank Flush Inlet
• Relocate the City Connection to the Black Water Flush Location
• Modify the area behind the UDC to Accommodate a High Flow two Stage Filter
• Install inlet Side and Post Filter Pressure Gauges.
• Install 2 Three Way Valves to control the Flow of Water.
  • Valve One will be Fed by Filterer Water as Bypass or Fill
  • Second Valve will be Fed by City Water as Bypass or Flush.
• Install a Metal Plate 1/16 inch in place of the City/Fill removed above to mount the two Valves above.
• relocate the Air/FW over flow to the new Valve Plate.

So Far I have only done the Modes behind the UDC and Installed the Filters - ( But not plumbed in )

Expanded the area behind the UDC by 6 inches


Dual Filters installed on new Door for UDC Access area. Note the In and Out are not connected in the Lower Right.
They will be connected with a 3/4in x 18in armored Sharkbite hose to allow for opening and closing of the door without worry.



The Filter Wall is Hinged so it closes - I did need to use real Plywood so it would actually support the Filters



Now totally Closed - note I have not covered it with the Black Fabric yet - have not decided that is what I am going to do yet.




I will Add more photos as I compete the Mod.

Wow! looks good and a lot of work:angel:

Kevin - that looks great, I'm sure you must of modified the wall so you can get access easily also, I have external filters that I set up on the ground and they work great.
It's a necessity in Florida, a lot of the campgrounds have well water that has Iron (brown water) or a sulfur smell. I use a GE Household paper filter for the Iron and a carbon for the sulfur smell, they really make a difference got them at Home Depot.

Westwind,

yes - I actually had to bump out the wall by 6 inches to allow for enough space for the Filters. I also made the wall that holds the Filters Hinged so it open and closes like a door. I will also be using a primary paper filter (5 mic) and a secondary Carbon filter (1 mic). The two filters are GE whole house filters rated at 12 GPM with a bypass so it the water is good tasting I will be able to bypass the second Carbon filter ( extending it's life )

Kevin

Great idea Kevin!

Great mod Kevin!

Update to my Water Filter Mod -

I had to abandon the use of the 3/4 inch Shark Bite Armored Flex Pipe because it does not have enough "twist". In it place I used the same hose that Heartland uses ( Stole the length of hose from the Winterizing Valve ) Also added two pressure gauges, one input one output.



Removed the City Water/Fill/Vent piece and replaced it with these two Valves:

Right Valve is a two way valve, one position is the Pressure Fill and the other is normal water operation.
Left Valve is just a on off for Black Water Flush. The Black Water Flush comes from the Filter side of the Water System so it will work on either Pump or City Water.

View attachment 18681

Moved the City Water Connection to the old Black Flush location. This connection is an "open" connection - ( No Back Flow Valve )

The Back Flow Valve is on the Post Filter Side of the City Water. See the First Picture This allow for the Filters to be on the post filter side of the plumbing since all waters in the FW tank has already gone through the Filters once.

View attachment 18682


Finally this photo shows the Conversion for the Fill - I made sure to remove all of the Extra tubing ( about 2 feet more than needed ) to avoid any "filling up hill" issues. the relocated over flow/breather valve does it's job and expels air from the tank when being filled.



Still to Do:

• Add A latch to the Filter Door to hold it shut
• cover the exposed side of the Filter Door with Black Felt ( or what ever that is )
• replace vacuum break valve ( when I find it. )
• continue to replace plastic Pex fittings with Lead Free Brass as Time permits.

Kevin, do you have a way to add diluted bleach to the fresh tank?

Looks great Kevin. When I get ht trailer loaded up next week I'll post some pics of what I did for my "water"

For your "flex" hose between the trailer and the filters, have you tried a full 360 degree loop? That shoul dallow the freeom of movemnet you need.

Nice touch making the compartment bigger.

Looks nice, great install Kevin!

danemayer said:

Kevin, do you have a way to add diluted bleach to the fresh tank?

Click to expand...

Dan,

yes - because of the way I have the Pump plumbed in - it is possible to use the Winterizing hose to inject a bleach solution into the FW tank. But that solution will also get into the normal ( post filter ) plumbing so if done I will need to flush all lines before using.

Kevin

That is a well engineered setup. Perhaps my thoughts were a little simplistic but I went to a mega store and bought an inline filter that came with a little flex hose attachment. It fits just fine in the connector box area and seems to work well. Have not tasted the water other than coffee but its not leaking. I thought it was odd that the trailer didnt have a unit built in like my old Sandpiper which had a more conventional setup that unscrewed a see through plastic bellhousing exposing the filter.

recumbent615 said:

Update to my Water Filter Mod -

I had to abandon the use of the 3/4 inch Shark Bite Armored Flex Pipe because it does not have enough "twist". In it place I used the same hose that Heartland uses ( Stole the length of hose from the Winterizing Valve ) Also added two pressure gauges, one input one output.

View attachment 18683

Removed the City Water/Fill/Vent piece and replaced it with these two Valves:

Right Valve is a two way valve, one position is the Pressure Fill and the other is normal water operation.
Left Valve is just a on off for Black Water Flush. The Black Water Flush comes from the Filter side of the Water System so it will work on either Pump or City Water.

View attachment 18681

Moved the City Water Connection to the old Black Flush location. This connection is an "open" connection - ( No Back Flow Valve )

The Back Flow Valve is on the Post Filter Side of the City Water. See the First Picture This allow for the Filters to be on the post filter side of the plumbing since all waters in the FW tank has already gone through the Filters once.

View attachment 18682


Finally this photo shows the Conversion for the Fill - I made sure to remove all of the Extra tubing ( about 2 feet more than needed ) to avoid any "filling up hill" issues. the relocated over flow/breather valve does it's job and expels air from the tank when being filled.

View attachment 18685

Still to Do:

• Add A latch to the Filter Door to hold it shut
• cover the exposed side of the Filter Door with Black Felt ( or what ever that is )
• replace vacuum break valve ( when I find it. )
• continue to replace plastic Pex fittings with Lead Free Brass as Time permits.

Click to expand...

Kevin, did you find the vacum break valve? Found mine (2010 3812) because it blew apart in the wall next to the toilet! Had to take the wall board off and replace the valve.

Chuck - Yes I did locate mine without the explosion - it was in the wall above the toilet behind a service panel.

Kevin

Kevin,

How's your water flow? We would like to upgrade our water filter. We are just using the blue inline filter and it really cuts down the flow. Is this still good for showering?

Thanks,

Laurie,

I see a drop of about 2lbs pressure when using the single filter and about 3lbs total when both filters are active. As far as water flow, I do not notice any real drop. I had one of those cheap regulators and when I used that It was horrible even without the filters. Since replacing that with a better quality regulator I do not see any flow issues at all ( as long as the park flow is good )

Kevin

Okay, Thanks for the info.

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