ATF: Road Warrior - How to access by-pass valves?

JawBreaker

Member
I have a 2012 Road Warrior 305 RW, just picked it up last Friday, I am pumped but I cannot find an opening from any angle to the by-pass valves on my water heater, am I missing something? I need to gain access to those valves in order to fill my tank and turn on the device?

I'm in panic mode at this point, I looked again, the only way into the back of the water heater is to remove a wall in the basement compartment, I hate to do this to a brand new camper. Anyone out there got another solution? Why would this be designed this way, is it an oversite? Please advise soon, getting ready to pull-out for the first trip Wednesday! Thanks everyone, hopefully someone knows a hidden opening to get into that area?


Well, I removed the wall, found the valves, got everything filled, fired-up and took off. Made our first trip out in good time, got 13 mpg. Should be a nice long weekend once this rain stops.
 
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ILH

Well-known member
Its interesting that you post these questions now - as I'm picking up my new 305 tomorrow. I'll be sure to get the dealer to walk through all of the procedures for me.
 

philgrg

Member
I looked again, the only way into the back of the water heater is to remove a wall in the basement compartment, I hate to do this to a brand new camper. Anyone out there got another solution? Why would this be designed this way, is it an oversite?

I have a 2011 395RW. You're right that's the only way to get to the bypass valves. On my model the rear basement wall is split so you can remove the screws from the short section in front of the water heater. I agree it would be handy to have some type of latch-able door there. I may have to work on that if I ever get time.
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
A lot of us have made the basement wall removeable, some have used piano hinges, I have regular door hinges and use hitch pins in place of the hinge pins.
 

Sandpirate69

Well-known member
Just curious, why would you be messing with the by-pass valves? I could see if there was some type of heater issue. Pass on the info. so i can educate myself.

Thanks
 

sJv

Active Member
Many of us need access to them twice a year: winterize and un-winterize. Luckily, the WH on the 300C is accessible from under the kitchen sink.

Just curious, why would you be messing with the by-pass valves? I could see if there was some type of heater issue. Pass on the info. so i can educate myself.

Thanks
 

porthole

Retired
I used a marine access plate. These are 2 pieces, a frame you install in the board and a cap you screw into the frame.
 

JawBreaker

Member
To further the knowledge regarding bypass access, up in the Northern states and Canada, we have to either fill the water heater with rv antifreeze for winter storage or use the bypass valves to reduce the need for filling a ten gallon heater with fluid that will end up in the drain when dewinterizing. My unit came from the factory in the bypass mode, in order to get hot water this has to be undone. I could understand not know what this system is for, so there is the jist of the bypass system.
 

ILH

Well-known member
In my last travel trailer by SOB, the designers seemed to take great joy in putting the valve in the least accessible location!
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
In my last travel trailer by SOB, the designers seemed to take great joy in putting the valve in the least accessible location!

In our previous TT, there was no bypass valving. I had to install it. Quite simple, actually. But I never put antifreeze in the water heater, just drain it and leave the anode rod out for the winter. With the BH, just turn two valves and it's in bypass.
 

ILH

Well-known member
How ironic was this line of conversation! We took our brand new 305 on its first trip this past weekend. We had gone through all the normal walk-throughs with the dealer - but had not thought about the de-winterization. Needless to say, Saturday morning we had no hot water. As a factory ordered unit, the dealer hadn't had a chance to de-winterize it - and the by-pass valves hadn't been reset. Like others, I couldn't find it. I looked on the outside, behind the panel below the TV (where the furnace is), but nowhere....

Finally the dealership was open and after a couple of phone calls they confirmed that you MUST remove a panel in the basement adjacent to the water control centre. Just behind this panel is all the plumbing for the control panel and the waster tank. A few minutes later, a few cramped muscles and repacking all the containers removed from the basement - we were back in business.
 

porthole

Retired
Add a marine "pie plate" access hatch.
I used a 4" version. That is a bit small, I would use either a 6 or 8" to make it really useful.

//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=83083&viewfull=1#post83083
 
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