Noob RVer needs your advice about temp RV storage at home

Hi, all. Purchased a Greystone 32RL last Spring to use as an office and temp home while supporting a Government contract away from home. I'm having that unit moved home later next week and have a few questions. As they are pretty general in nature, thought I'd post them here. Mods, feel free to move this as necessary.

1. I'll drain the holding tanks and flush them thoroughly before moving the unit. When it arrives at my home, should I add any water to the fresh, grey, and black tanks at all or should they just remain emtpy? (I was thinking that I should add some water and chemical to the black tank just as a precaution.)

2. A question about electrical sources during temp storage at my home. Like most of us, I don't have a 30 amp or 50 amp service at my home. Does this mean that I can only use 12 volt DC items in the RV? Is it even possible to have 50 amp service from your home to your RV without a dedicated electical system being installed for it? (I don't see a 50 amp anything in my home's electrical panel.)

3. Was looking at nice RV cover from Camping World to keep the hot Texas sun off the RV. Anyone else use them and have any suggestions about using these types of RV covers?

4. What about the water heater? Totally drain it?


I'm sure I've missed something important so if you have any further advice, please feel free to toss it my way.

Thanks for your assistance!!

I guess that a lot of people do what they feel is best for them. You have options.

1. I'll drain the holding tanks and flush them thoroughly before moving the unit. When it arrives at my home, should I add any water to the fresh, grey, and black tanks at all or should they just remain empty? (I was thinking that I should add some water and chemical to the black tank just as a precaution.)

It is a good idea to drain all your tanks. Personally I do not use a black tank chemical. I do not add any water to any tank.


2. A question about electrical sources during temp storage at my home. Like most of us, I don't have a 30 amp or 50 amp service at my home. Does this mean that I can only use 12 volt DC items in the RV? Is it even possible to have 50 amp service from your home to your RV without a dedicated electrical system being installed for it? (I don't see a 50 amp anything in my home's electrical panel.)

You should be able to run a good #12 extension cord to your rig. It will suffice to run the converter/charger, to include all your 12 volt items.
Your service at home should be able to have an extra circuit added for RV service. 30 or 50 amp. If you don't know what you are doing there I would recommend that job be left to a professional.



3. Was looking at nice RV cover from Camping World to keep the hot Texas sun off the RV. Anyone else use them and have any suggestions about using these types of RV covers?

Can't help you here.

4. What about the water heater? Totally drain it?

Some people drain theirs others do not. I drain mine about twice per year.
If you elect to drain the water heater be sure to relieve the pressure before removing the anode rod/plug.

Peace
Dave

Dave's got it covered pretty well. I'd add that even if you don't use the rig while it's parked at your house, pour some water down the drains to make sure the P-traps don't dry out. That will keep any odors from the tanks backing up into the rig. Depending on the electrical layout of your house, adding a suitable circuit off your main panel is not a big deal. The size of the circuit is dependent on what you plan to do with the rig while it's parked there.

I use Happy Camper toilet chem. Dear wife has a sensitive nose. I recharge as needed, and keep water in black tank so any solids do not turn hard and create tank issues. I drain my hot water tank because I do not want to carry the extra weight. I hook up to an out let in the garage and it serves me well. Of course I cannot run AC. Have you consider joining the Heartland Owners Club? There are many benefits, and info can be found by clicking the owners club tab at the top of the forum page. Happy camping and safe travels.

Jeff:
My take on this is a little different. I like to keep 1/4 tank fresh water in the trailer, as every time I visit it at the storage facility I use, I have to use the "facilities". That would mean that a little fresh water in the black tank with chemicals (if you use them) would be in order. Maybe this will be different for you if the rig is sitting right at home (and you don't use the "facilities").

You can get a couple of adapters to adapt down that 50 amp plug to 30 amps and then to standard household 15 amps. I wouldn't try to run the AC (around 15 amps), and maybe the microwave (around 12 amps) on an extention cord with this, but keeping your rig plugged in with the current generation of smart battery chargers/convertors is good for your battery life. Once the batteries are charged, the convertor will only pull an amp, or so.

Thanks for the quick replies and great insight each of you provided! Wow, that's why folks love the Heartland community.

Just a couple of follow-on questions from your responses.

1. From Dave's (Cookie's) reply: The #12 extension cords you mentioned...I believe these are the heavy outdoor cords, right? I have a few that are heavy orange colored cords. Also, where do you plug this cord in to on the Greystone? I have a double three-prong electrical outlet in the dump station area of the 32RL. Is that where you plug it in?

2. From JohnDar: Good idea about the P-traps. I remember reading about that elsewhere in the Heartland forums but I'd forgotten it. Thanks for the reminder!

3. From Tweber: That's the way I was going as well. Add a bit of water and the chems just to keep the solids from, well, solidifying.

4. From wdk450: Good info on keeping the unit plugged in to run the converter. Since the unit will be unused for a couple of months, I was thinking about pulling the single 12 Vdc battery and just putting in on a battery tender (charger/analyzer) but, if the converter also does the charger/analyzer function, I can just keep it installed in the RV. Does that sound right?

I'm still a bit unsure about the water heater. Draining it seems to make sense to me but isn't draining the tank and pulling the anode run a bit of a pain?

Again, everybody, thanks for your quick responses and great insight. Y'all are pros so I'm sure this stuff is very simple to do -- my admitted inexperience is probably making these decision harder than they really are.

Thanks again!

Jeff,

Assuming your rig has a standard 50A power cord, to plug your rig into a standard 20A household outlet, you use an adapter like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mid-West-Home...WCY0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335129409&sr=8-1

http://tweetys.com/50-20-adapter.aspx This is the type of adapter you need, Plug your 50amp cord into your rig and plug it into the adapter, then plug the adapter into a receptacle or extention cord.Remember your power will be limited to the 15 or 20 amps your cord is plugged into.

Some orange extension cords are 12 ga., but many are only 14 ga. or 16 ga. Look along the length of the cord and you should find the nomenclature with the wire size (AWG) on it. Unless you're buying a new one, in which case it should be on the label.

John is correct that you need to look at the cord to find the wire size.
Just because the label said "heavy duty" does not mean it is #12 or larger wire.
I have several #12 extension cords in all different colors.
Also as has been mentioned, you will need the adaptor and plug the extension cord into your shore cord.

Peace
Dave

TxCowboy said:

I'm still a bit unsure about the water heater. Draining it seems to make sense to me but isn't draining the tank and pulling the anode run a bit of a pain?

Thanks again!

Click to expand...

By draining the Water heater you will save the anode. If your system does not have an anode and its just a drain plug it still a good idea to drain the water heater. There is usually some gunk that will be in the water heater. Some water heaters can also corrode inside. I learned the hard way that when you're going to let your trailer sit for a while drain the water heater. In my SOB it took me hours to clear out the water heater after leaving it filled and the anode in. It'll take minutes to drain it and leave than to take hours of cleaning later.

TxCowboy said:

Thanks for the quick replies and great insight each of you

I'm still a bit unsure about the water heater. Draining it seems to make sense to me but isn't draining the tank and pulling the anode run a bit of a pain?

Thanks again!

Click to expand...

No, all you need to do is make sure the water in the tank is not hot. Find a suitable socket and turn left. Once the water stops flowing, reverse the process.

I once left the water in my water heater during a short storage. To my surprise and discuss the water soured. Which made for a very short and smelly shower.

When I store my 5th for short periods of time I make sure the battery is fully charged, disconnect the battery, and drain all the water.

I have cooked a set of battery leaving the rig plugged into power. The factory converter is not a battery minder/tender. If your battery is in good shape it can sit for 3 mths without a draw and be ok.

Two days before a trip, I reconnect the battery and plug in the trailer.

Just my opinion.

Sumo said:

The factory converter is not a battery minder/tender.


Just my opinion.

Click to expand...

As far as I know, Heartland uses the Progressive Dynamics 9200 series converters/chargers. That's what is in my rig. Read the description from the Progressive Dynamics website describing the MICROPROCESSOR CONTROLLED, 4 MODE (INCLUDING A DESULFATION MODE) here:
http://www.progressivedyn.com/power_converters_9200.html

Also see the operation description in the Owner's Manual: http://www.progressivedyn.com/PD9200_Manual.pdf

Thanks for the updates, gang. Ordered an adapter and it should be here this week. The RV gets delivered home tomorrow and I'll be draining the tank on Wednesday.

Thanks again!

Guess I'm lucky with the water heater. Once I fill it in the beginning of May, I don't empty it until the end of September. We commute to our rig and may leave it unattended (water heater is off) for a week or more before returning. Water is never "sour" and this is the fourth season with the same anode rod. I do run all water into the rig through a two canister filtration system, though.