Docking Center Door

Westwind

Well-known member
While setting up on a windy day in Myrtle Beach the docking center door swung against the side of the trailer and propane compartment door handle put a ding in the door. Their really needs to be a way to secure this door while setting up the trailer so that it isn't subject to wind. You could easily get your fingers slammed in the door or hit in the heat.
If anyone has a mod that holds this door so it can't freely move around please share it, I tried dry fitting a hook to it today but it didn't work out. I'm foing to looke for a latch at the RV Store near me but a suggestion would be appreciated.
 

dfk009

Well-known member
I went to my selling dealer and bought a retainer that matched the finish of the factory installed retainers. Measured where it needed to be placed, drilled two holes, and installed the two retaining screws. Now the door doesn't whack me when we have a strong South wind. Easy to cure your problem.


re
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
One of neighbors last Winter used a bungy cord. I put some velcro on mine and stick it to the door ahead. I don't know how well this will work in a high wind but it's been okay so far...Don
 

DougS

Doug S
Westwind, I use a hatch spring like is used on boat hatches to keep the hatch open. The spring keeps the door from opening too wide and the stiff spring keeps the door from closing until the straightness of the spring is broken. I use the same type of spring to keep the front hatch open, but the bracket of the light metal must be re-enforced. The spring can be bought from West Marine, they come in two sizes, I used the heavier one. Sorry I can't remember the exact product name.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
If it's the standard side swinging door, like mine, attaching a door latch is simple. You do need to reinforce the backside of the mounting areas with some aluminum sheet stock, though. And use stainless steel machine bolts. I used one of the longer latches on mine.

And no, it does not get in the way or knocked off on the road. It tends to remain flat against the door going down the road.

View attachment 19780View attachment 19781
 

Westwind

Well-known member
DougS - is there a chance you could post pictures of your mod., I checked out the spring at West Marine and liked it, I just have to figure how to mount it so that it will work and I can't seem to figure where to mount it to the door frame. I think I might get it since the way it's packaged I can return it easily.
s
 

Nabo

Southeast Region Director-Retired
We also added a latch to the side of the UDC swing door like the one that is used to latch open the entry door. Work great.
 

DougS

Doug S
Westwind,
You wanted pics of my Hatch Arm Mod. I have heavy metal doors on my docking station door, most doors are light aluminium. The front hatch has thin metal like most doors, so a plate had to be attached like in the picture. I attached the plate with double sided tape and screws, then screwed the Hatch Arm on.
 

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ericandalice

Senior Question Asker
We're brand new to RV mods so I just wanted to know how you guys attached the screws to the door. Just straight into it? Does it hold or does it need added support? I'm unsure of what the doors are made of and don't want a bunch of holes because I use the wrong screw or something. Thanks!
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
We're brand new to RV mods so I just wanted to know how you guys attached the screws to the door. Just straight into it? Does it hold or does it need added support? I'm unsure of what the doors are made of and don't want a bunch of holes because I use the wrong screw or something. Thanks!

I used stainless steel machine bolts, washers, and locking nuts. To reinforce the area, I used sections of 1/8" aluminum plate on the inside surfaces of the doors. Door construction is basically the filon wall board outer skin with a hard foam inner panel.
 

Westwind

Well-known member
Hey DougS - Thanks for the pictures - now I know exactly how to position the springs, I really like these springs - unfortunately this could cost me about $60 bucks in springs, but this will be a excellent mod. and no one said this was a cheap hobby! I was thinking at first that the Docking Center door was the only one that needed it, but when your changing propane tanks or when I hook up my 12V compressor to the battery compartment I need those doors open also.
 

DougS

Doug S
Westwind, hope it works for you. If you have the thinner material on your doors you will probably need a plate. I bought a mending plate from Ace Hardware, I believe it is just plan steel.
 

Westwind

Well-known member
I've got a 2012 and the compartment doors are pretty thick, the large compartment door has a piston lift so it appears they can handle something being fastened to them. But I'm going to put the plate on it anyhow. I've already got a dimple on one door from it swinging in the wind so this needs to be done. Thanks for the info.
 

Westwind

Well-known member
Well I finally got around to doing the mod to the Docking Compartment Door. I bought the boat hatch spring at West Marine, ($17.00), some nice deep threaded stainless screws also for $.25 each and a square flat electrical box cover for $2.00 at Ace. Spray painted the cover white and then drilled pilot holes on the four corners. The install was easy and I had it done in 30 minutes or so. It is a great mod thanks to DougS.
I'm definately going to do it on the propane door and maybe the Hydraulic door. That door will take a little work since mounting the spring to the trailer will take a another mod so the spring will line up correctly when mounted.
Another note, the doors on my Bighorn are thick but the panel on the inside of the door is thin, so I was glad that the screws had deep threads on them.
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
Did my mod for that door for a cost of a couple bucks..... On the inside of the door latch, there is a female threaded hole; I found an eye-bolt at the ACE hardware with the correct thread and screwed it right in. Then, I pulled an 8" bunge cord from my on hand items and bent the end so it stays on the eye-bolt. Finally, I used a SS screw and screwed it into the molding on the exterior at the front of the garage area, leaving it stick out just enough for the other end of the bunge cord. The screw is out of the way and SS will look good forever. When I open the door, the bunge cord is hanging there on the eye-bolt and I hook it onto the SS screw..... works great - low cost - did the job in 2 minutes (after getting the parts)
 

Westwind

Well-known member
That is a good inexpensive mod, never thought of one like that. I'll have to check that out for the Propane door. Since my wife uses this door it's a good fix for her, bundge cords are not her list of favorite things. Thats why this was a good fix and worth the money.
I just don't understand why the manufacturer's don't do something, the slam baggage latches were great but this is an improvement that is needed.
 

Westwind

Well-known member
Mod Report - for those who are interested, I happened to be cleaning out our FW compartment and moving things around and the door was nice and steady, had I not had the mod it would have been blowing around for sure as we had a good breeze. I like the fact you have to pull on the spring to release the door when closing it.
 
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