Coroplast...

We got a (new to us) 2007 Heartland Cyclone 6/22/12 and took it on our first (Uh yes very first camping trip.... camping virgins here) and discovered the family was born to camp! However on our way home my husband mutters "Ah S@$T!" and pulled over.... the coroplast had completely blown out from under the Cyclone and stretched into the lane of oncoming traffic! We are in ND and it is notorious for being very very windy here. We were able to get the coroplast off without the wind and coroplast pulling off the sewer lines and the exhaust of the generator or getting killed by the traffic. (Must have had an angel watching over us though because once we were back moving less than 4 miles down the road one of the semi's that had just passed us while we were on the side of the road had thrown the front set of dual tires from his trailer. So had that thing broke off 3 1/2 minutes sooner... I wouldn't be here typing!) Now what we would like to know is the best way to attach new coroplast. We definitely do NOT want this to ever happen again! What we would like to do is attache it so it is as water/air tight around the perimeter as possible and possibly have a way to prevent center sagging. I am hoping all of you experienced folks can give us some solid advice!


Thanks!

Stacey

Sounds like the former owner had the coroplast down more than once and maybe the screws were not tight, or washers were missing.

I've had to drill some new holes for my coroplast because the screws no longer hold securely in the frame (they've been out and in a few times). So I'd advise getting new screws and if they don't hold tight, drill new holes. You should have large washers on those screws.

I'll be replacing part/all of my coroplast this Fall and am thinking about starting with 4x8 sheets and running wood/metal inside the frame to provide additional attachment points. A continuous sheet might be better in some ways, but I want to have easier access. The large sheets of coroplast are hard to work with.

Stacey, Welcome to the Heartland Forum & Family!

Dan has an excellent idea about sectioning the coroplast for better access. You could use treated 1X4's laying on the inside of the frame as a place to seam the coroplast. Use at least a #12 X 1" self drilling hex screw along with a fender washer about every 12 to 18 inches along each side of the frame.

If the previous owner or a dealer didn't properly close up the underbelly, that may have caused your dilemma. Thankfully you made it home safe.

Be sure to tape any holes or rips in the Coraplast. it will prevent water, wind and critters from getting in ( mostly wind and critters because the water will always find its way in.) I use Black Gorilla Tape because it sticks to anything and does not dry out as quickly as "duck tape"

Welcome to The Heartland family.

Kevin

danemayer said:

I'll be replacing part/all of my coroplast this Fall .

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Dan, can you give me an idea as to how much it will cost you? I don't need it yet but I really am not happy with the way ours is.

2psnapod2 said:

Dan, can you give me an idea as to how much it will cost you? I don't need it yet but I really am not happy with the way ours is.

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Sorry, I haven't priced it yet. I was getting some Lexan from Interstate Plastics and asked if they carried coroplast and they said yes. Their price on Lexan was excellent ($37 for 4'x4'), so I'm hoping the coroplast will be reasonable.

Thanks Dan, if you get the price please let me know.

Interstate Plastics Website

4'x8' sheet of Black Fluted Polypro (generic name for Coroplast) is $13.99. It's .158" thick, which could be slightly thinner than what Heartland uses - not sure.

Coroplast

Stacey,
You can get coroplast from any dealer. But I would rather go with the lexan idea. Lexan may or may not be cheaper, but it WILL stand up better.

Found the same material as Coraplast but in white at our local Home Depot yesterday, it was in 4 by 8 sheets and really would be good to used if you wanted it in sections so you could get to things with out dropping the whole length.

This string has posed some questions some of you more seasoned owners may be able to answer.

1 Is there additional decking at the floor of the basement or is it just the Coroplast?

2 If it is just the Coroplast would removing it to make basement modifications like cleaning up the plumbing easier?

Thanks for you answers and for information in other strings that have made my like easier?

Paul

Re: Coroplast

kuhn_tech said:

Stacey,
You can get coroplast from any dealer. But I would rather go with the lexan idea. Lexan may or may not be cheaper, but it WILL stand up better.

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Lexan would be about 5x more expensive, and more difficult to cut and install. Not to mention you'd have to clean up and straighten everything out knowing that everyone could look right up your underbelly.

santafesoul said:

This string has posed some questions some of you more seasoned owners may be able to answer. 1 Is there additional decking at the floor of the basement or is it just the Coroplast? 2 If it is just the Coroplast would removing it to make basement modifications like cleaning up the plumbing easier? Thanks for you answers and for information in other strings that have made my like easier? Paul

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Taking the coroplast down gives you access to gate valves and to some of the water lines. In Landmarks and Bighorns, and probably many other models, the area behind the basement wall has decking, so if you're thinking about mods like putting in a water distribution manifold, or moving the water pump, no, the coroplast is not in the picture.

There really is a "spaghetti symphony" between your floor and that underbelly, so removing the coroplast without replacing it is not an option. Wires and hoses and such have too much slack in them. If you had time and energy, you could clean it up and reroute everything, but it would be a chore.

I would suggest replacing in sections, it would be easier to access if you need in there. (and you will, sometime).

E