A/C not cooling unit

I have a 2012 BC 3250TS when the temperature gets above 80 the a/c will run all the time
This past week temperatures were hot
When it was 94 outside it was 85 inside, 89 outside 80 inside
I checked the intake and out put air, it seemed to be ok, about 20 degrees difference
I went on the roof and found a cold spot near one of the vents
Called the local service shop and they said it was normal
To me that indicates an insulation problem
Anyone else having this problem?
Anyone have any solutions?

There have been several discussions on this over the past few weeks. Check out this one: //heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...-to-redirect-airflow?highlight=Tent+in+a+Vent

Generally, one A/C cannot keep up when the outside temps are above 95 (or even a little else). In addition to the mods mentioned in various threads, make sure you start the A/C up early in the morning to stay ahead of the temps as much as possible. If you wait until it's 80 to turn it on, it will have a hard time catching up. Also, consider installing a second A/C unit. This will make a world of difference. Try keepinging the fan on high also. Just a few ideas.

Our BC 3250 is about the same. Parking in the shade helps but I think the only real cure for hot weather is a second A/C. My next big investment for our trailer...Don

FYI I keep it set on 70 all the time 24 7
At any temp it can only keep it 9 degrees below outside tem
When it gets 80 it can only cool the inside to 72 and never shuts off after that as the temp rises it only is 9 degrees cooler that outsied
I have closed off the bedroom and bathroom and blocked the vents in that portion, this helps to get 14 degrees below outside

The vent portion is what concerens me (cold spot on roof near center vent), air leaking to the wrong side of the insulation
I think the vents are part of the problem, the roof is suppost to be very well insulated
I looked in the bathroom vent and next to the shower skylight I can see a board with a gap between it and the insulation, leaving a gap up toward the roof
If I knew how to attach a photo I would do that
If you have a problem with a duct leaking in your house, cold/warm spots you fix it
Just like a cold/warm spot on your exterior walls you know there is an insulation problem in that area

I am taking my scope up to where I have the camper this week end and will see what I find
I will be installing second a/c also

FYI I have been in the maintenance & repair business of homes and apartments for over 30 years with HVAC knowledge
Does heartland monitor this to get ideas on improvements and problems?

Hi lawser,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

Yes,, if you have a cold spot on the roof,, I would say you have a leak in the ducting system. Left us know what you find.

And Yes,,, the factory does monitor the forum, but not all of it. They do not make a lot of post and do not watch it like a hawk, but do look and take suggestions for improvements. Sometimes we see the change in the production of the units that have been suggested here on the forum.

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M

I use a box fan to help circulate the cool air. It makes a big difference in how cold it gets. My wife refers to our trailer as the penguin habitat because it feels ice cold inside even when the outside air was 105 degrees. The inside was set for 70 and usually stayed between 68 and 80 during the hottest part of the day. Turn off the box fan and the temperature rose and you could tell it was warm outside depending on were you were at in the trailer.

I used my scope in the duct work
The ducts run all the way to the ends with gaps, these should be blocked after the last vent (2)
The A/C outlets look like they were just broken out (1)
There are gaps between duct junctions and between duct and ceiling (1)
Duct cut out by shower skylight,open to ceiling (2)
And the big one above kitchen wall, this is where roof gets cold (3)
No wonder the a/c has a hard time
These pictures were all taken from the inside of the duct
I have contacted Heartland, they said my pictures are no good and I have to take it in again so the service center can take pictures
Then they will decide what to do
Makes me wonder how the rest of the insulation is

Those pictures are pretty cool! I'm curious to hear updates as you get them.

The big question is what are you going to do to get it repaired?

Lawser,

I don't believe my problems are the same as yours (hope my duct work doesn't look like that) nor cold spots but just an undersized unit.
My Greystone 33CK came with one AC unit; took RV to Lake Mead Nevada where the temperature reached 100F in May AND the AC could not keep the inside cool enough. We had a second AC (13,500BTU) installed and that took care of the problem (moneypit solution...I guess). Since we don't have double pane windows, I place the reflective foil on the windows getting most of the sun. This has helped overall.
The one issue I have with the factory installed and ducted AC is that the main room and bunk house barely get any air flowing through the vents (other reason the second AC was installed). The living room area and bathroom get plenty of air.

John

am surprised that the trailer would cool at all. if this is how all of them are constructed the R factor is grossly overstated

lawser said:

I used my scope in the duct work
The ducts run all the way to the ends with gaps, these should be blocked after the last vent (2)
The A/C outlets look like they were just broken out (1)
There are gaps between duct junctions and between duct and ceiling (1)
Duct cut out by shower skylight,open to ceiling (2)
And the big one above kitchen wall, this is where roof gets cold (3)
No wonder the a/c has a hard time
These pictures were all taken from the inside of the duct
I have contacted Heartland, they said my pictures are no good and I have to take it in again so the service center can take pictures
Then they will decide what to do
Makes me wonder how the rest of the insulation is
View attachment 20344View attachment 20345View attachment 20347View attachment 20346View attachment 20348View attachment 20349View attachment 20350View attachment 20351View attachment 20352

Click to expand...

In the near future I will be climbing up on my roof of our Big Horn after first turning on the A/C and letting it run for a while. I will then take out my trusty heat/cold leak detector tool and check out the roof for any cold spots. I will report my findings....

Your ducts could be sealed without starting over, I'd look for a Aeroseal contractor in your area. (watch the video) Maybe a few RV'ers in your area could get a group discount.

http://aeroseal.com/

Just to give everone an update
I called heartland and they said my pictures arn't good enough and I have to take it to the dealer so he can take pictures
I take it in on Mon. the 30th
Will give an update after they discuss with heartland on what they will do

The main A/C runs continuously on 80+ days and bed room A/C cycles on those same days which leads me to believe the insulation in the bed room area is much better than the living area. This has not been an issue until I pay 12-14 cents per KW for electricity when I am "snow-birding" in Florida. The advertised R value in 5th wheels is more of a pipe dream and sales gimmick and I don't think thermal pain windows improve that enough to justify the expense. The best thing to do is park in the shade where you can and have reflective stuff installed on the windows. However, my neighbor's stock Mobile Suites 5th wheel A/C's cycle like you would expect and gets much cooler than mine in hot Florida weather.

The main A/C runs continuously on 80+ days and bed room A/C cycles on those same days which leads me to believe the insulation in the bed room area is much better than the living area.

Click to expand...

Hi Dave10a,

Not sure about your configuration, but in ours, the # of cubic feet being cooled in the bedroom is perhaps 1/3 (or less) than that of the living room. With less to cool, the bedroom A/C never has trouble quickly dropping the bedroom temp into the 60s.

danemayer said:

Hi Dave10a,

Not sure about your configuration, but in ours, the # of cubic feet being cooled in the bedroom is perhaps 1/3 (or less) than that of the living room. With less to cool, the bedroom A/C never has trouble quickly dropping the bedroom temp into the 60s.

Click to expand...

We have basically the same config, but the living area has a larger capacity A/C than the bedroom. The slides are the problem not the difference in Cubic feet. The slides in the living areas simply render what ever R value in the roof, walls and floor ineffective because of their lack of insulating seal...

Does anyone out there know how much lower than outside temperature a "good operating" A/C should cool a trailer? We have a 2012 Landmark Grand Canyon and live in central Texas. I have the thermostat set at 75 and at 101 degrees outside in direct sun my fifth wheel is about 85 degress on the inside.

Search= Tim K's tent in the vent.

DTucker said:

Does anyone out there know how much lower than outside temperature a "good operating" A/C should cool a trailer? We have a 2012 Landmark Grand Canyon and live in central Texas. I have the thermostat set at 75 and at 101 degrees outside in direct sun my fifth wheel is about 85 degress on the inside.

Click to expand...

Dtucker,

Get ahead of the heat by setting the thermostat to 66 early in the morning. Once it gets hot inside, you won't get back to 75 until 10pm.

If you have the bedroom A/C, turn it on and set to 66 or 68. If you don't have the bedroom A/C, get one or go to Colorado. When running the bedroom A/C, it's important to have the living room A/C thermostat set low enough that it keeps running despite cold air coming out of the bedroom.

Turn off the sun by closing shades/blinds - east side in the AM, west side in the PM.

Dometic says that if you measure the temp of the air coming out of the ceiling, and the temp of the air at the rear of the coach, you should get an 18-20 degree differential. They don't have a spec for differential to outside temp.

The TimK tent mod helps direct more cold air to the rear vents. I found it makes the living room much more comfortable, even when temps are high. I also close off the bedroom vents (with paper for now) until bedtime.