ATF: MPG - refrigerator not working

1-bad-57

Member
I have a Nor cold refrigerator that won't cool and has a n code I checked everything and reset but still the same code. Getting ready to leave on a vacation with the trailer and every dealer I've called is two to three weeks out before it can be looked at WOW . What now?? Any suggestions on how to see if it is a easy fix that I can do?? Model 184 just bought new 4 weeks ago
Thanks,
Joe
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi Joe,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

Have you checked your owners manual for the "N" code? What does it tell you to do or does if give you an idea as to the problem and how to check it? You might post the model number of your fridge and maybe someone else can help out.

Jim M
 

1-bad-57

Member
I think it is the 412 model Norcold. The n code says to check the level of the trailer and that you have 1 chance to reset it . If that doesn't work it has to go in for service to a dealer. I'll be heading from Montana to Kansas with it in a few days, I wonder if there will be a dealer along the way that can look at it with short notice??
Joe
 

meandg

crawgator
I did a search and it pulled up some different pages. (My kids are teaching me to google everything)
 

danemayer

Well-known member
1-Bad-57,

Looks like your 'n' code might occur if 1) the unit is not level, 2) there's inadequate ventilation at the rear of the unit, 3) possibly no air circulation inside the unit, 4) a bad cooling unit.

If you recycled power without correcting the problem, the refrigerator is designed to lock in a disabled mode, presumably to prevent damage. The reset procedure is pretty complicated and probably better undertaken by a service tech.

If the underlying problem was 1, 2, or 3, and has been corrected, then a going to a dealer on the road might get it going again. If it needs a new cooling unit, things will get more interesting.

As an alternative, you might try the following procedure, which may apply to your model. Before doing this, make sure the unit is level, there is nothing blocking airflow at the back, and that the interior is not tightly packed with stuff.

Read all steps and make sure you understand all steps before actually trying it. If the instructions don't correspond to your unit, stop and turn the unit off.

If the refrigerator restarts and then kicks another n code, do not keep resetting. You could cause permanent damage which might not be covered under warranty.

There's a chance you could get past the lockout by erasing the fault code. To do this, go to diagnostic mode:

To access the Diagnostic Mode:
1. Press and hold both the MODE and TEMPSET buttons at the same time.
2. Release the MODE and TEMPSET as soon as screen 1 displays.
3. A few seconds later, 8 displays.

Changing Screens
To change screens, press the MODE button until the next screen displays.
You want to go to screen #6

Screen Erase Fault History Data
Screen 6 provides a way to erase stored fault history from memory. To erase stored fault history:
1. Press and hold the TEMPSET button when E and r display.
2. Release the TEMPSET button when C and L display.
3. Wait five seconds.
4. Press and hold the TEMPSET button until E and r display again.
Press the MODE button to bring up screen 7.

Exiting the Diagnostic Mode
To exit the Diagnostic Mode:
1. Press and hold the MODE and TEMPSET buttons at the same time.
2. Release the MODE and TEMPSET buttons as soon as the LED segment that represents the selected operation mode appears on the display (AUTO, AC, or LP GAS).
Turning the refrigerator OFF then back ON also exits the Diagnostic Mode.
 

1-bad-57

Member
Thanks Dan I think that did it. I'll check it in the morning before we leave for our vacation. Again thanks for the help.
Joe
 

kb0zke

Well-known member
Thanks, Dan. I printed out your instructions and will put them in the blue bag in the trailer shortly. This is the type of information that ought to be in an owners manual.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanks, Dan. I printed out your instructions and will put them in the blue bag in the trailer shortly. This is the type of information that ought to be in an owners manual.
David, I'm glad it helped. Be careful though. The reason the procedure is not put in an owner's manual is that the error lockout is designed to prevent damage to the cooling unit, which is likely to occur if the unit is repeatedly restarted without correcting the underlying problem.
 

mtran868

Member
I have a 2011 MPG with Norcold Refer. The last time I used the refer was a month ago. It would only get cold if I put it on Auto Mode. AC mode would not work. This morning, I tried AC mode and Auto mode and neither one would work.

Any idea what's going on with my refer?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I have a 2011 MPG with Norcold Refer. The last time I used the refer was a month ago. It would only get cold if I put it on Auto Mode. AC mode would not work. This morning, I tried AC mode and Auto mode and neither one would work.

Any idea what's going on with my refer?
mtran868,

Forgive me if I start at too basic a question, but are you allowing sufficient time for the refrig to get cold? In general they can take 6 or more hours before you can tell they're starting to cool and may take 12 hours or longer to get to normal operating temp. If you turn it on in TX on a 103 degree day, in an un-airconditioned RV, it may take a lot longer.

If it really didn't work at all on 110V, you may have a fuse blown on the control board. But if it didn't work at all on 110V and now doesn't work at all on 12V/LP, then it might beg for a problem common to both modes.

If your DC power is below 12V, it might account for the problem. If you just got the unit out of storage, the battery might be low, causing a problem for the circuit boards. If plugged into shore power, and your power converter is operating normally, and the battery is still ok (just depleted), things may recover in a few hours.

Other possible causes of failure might include poor ventilation at the back of the unit, or dirt buildup on the cooling fins, or operation when the unit is not level (which can lead to worse problems).

Another possible cause of failure on the 12V/LP operation is air in the gas line. You can purge the line by lighting the rangetop burner and letting it run for a minute. Then restart the refrigerator.

Hope something here helps you get going.
 
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