Water pump and basement Questions?

wildwolfproducts

Well-known member
What has been the best stuff to put under the pump to stop the noise when it kicks on? Ours is mounted to the floor. Was thinking about mounting rubber between it and the floor?
Also the water line fitting to the pump, how tight should these be? All of mine are finger tight??

Now the water switch is not hooked up right. The line to the water pump is easy the other three is not. So what to do to hunt the right ones to get the valve where its right when turned to each one??

Why in the world would (I'm guessing water cutoff for the ice maker) Ice maker shutoff be behind the panel in the basement next to the water pump? Shutoff valve with a clear water line like most ice makers have running from it?

Also theres one small run off the duck work dumping heat into the back section of the basement behind the hot water heater do all have this or is it not hooked up to something?

Also found 3 spots I can see light in spots. Will be shutting these off with Spray foam. Is this what most others use? One is around the dump pipe where it runs outside. The 2 others are not bad but can let in cold and hot air.

Does everyones charge wizard make lots of noise? Ours to me is buzzing way more then I would think is normal?

Pete
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Pete,

Water pump: you can reduce the noise but probably not get rid of it. A thin sheet of a closed-cell foam or rubber might help. Check to see that the water hoses attached to the pump are not in contact with walls or floor. You might want to put a few pieces of pipe insulation around the hoses.

Water line fitting: if you tighten it more than finger tight, I think you might break the plastic or damage the threads.

Now the water switch is not hooked up right. The line to the water pump is easy the other three is not. So what to do to hunt the right ones to get the valve where its right when turned to each one??
Don't understand the question.

Ice maker water cutoff: The valve is right behind the UDC, near the water heater. It has the small diameter clear plastic water line. During winter use, the line past the valve has to be evacuated so it doesn't freeze. Parts of the hose are exposed to outside air as it goes into the slide where the refrigerator is mounted.

Small heater duct hose: Provides heat to the underbelly area. It should go from the furnace down into the underbelly area.

Spray foam: many people use the expanding foam. There are several types and the one for larger openings may be best.

Converter noise: unless you're comparing with a sound meter, it's hard to compare noise levels. I think it might be normal to hear them when the basement wall is down. Ours is relatively quiet and I don't think we've ever noticed it.
 

wildwolfproducts

Well-known member
Hi Pete,

Water pump: you can reduce the noise but probably not get rid of it. A thin sheet of a closed-cell foam or rubber might help. Check to see that the water hoses attached to the pump are not in contact with walls or floor. You might want to put a few pieces of pipe insulation around the hoses.

Water line fitting: if you tighten it more than finger tight, I think you might break the plastic or damage the threads.


Don't understand the question.

Ice maker water cutoff: The valve is right behind the UDC, near the water heater. It has the small diameter clear plastic water line. During winter use, the line past the valve has to be evacuated so it doesn't freeze. Parts of the hose are exposed to outside air as it goes into the slide where the refrigerator is mounted.

Small heater duct hose: Provides heat to the underbelly area. It should go from the furnace down into the underbelly area.

Spray foam: many people use the expanding foam. There are several types and the one for larger openings may be best.

Converter noise: unless you're comparing with a sound meter, it's hard to compare noise levels. I think it might be normal to hear them when the basement wall is down. Ours is relatively quiet and I don't think we've ever noticed it.

I can hear our converter 10ft away with the basement wall up. Doors closed. so its loud. Our last RV had it in the kitchen and being it only had 9ft of floor space we never heard it one time. But this one sounds like an old street light buzzing to start and staying that way. Thinking our battery may be bad and causing the issue?
Pete
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Pete, regarding the converter, it should only sound about the noise level of a computer fan. Something inside could be loose and vibrating but it doesn't sound normal.
A lot of us have made the access panel in the basement easier to remove by leaving the screws out and installing a couple of latches. Our shut off for the ice maker line is back there as well.
The water pump noise? Make sure the inlet and outlet lines are both flexible 1/2" lines and not pex. Also as Dan mentioned, try to isolate any pex lines in the coach using pipe insulation. It'll never be silent but you should be able to get it pretty quiet.
I didn't quite understand your question about the wiring/switch.
 

TedS

Well-known member
The buzz you hear may be the power transfer relay if you have a generator prep package. The one on our Bighorn could be heard when connected to shore power.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Hi!
Regarding the pump noise problem, I saw flexible connection hoses from Sureflow at Camping World specifically for reducing pump noise.
When I was working, I purchased some Sorbithane sheet from McMaster-Carr for mouniting vibration-prone devices. Here is a link to the page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rubber-sheets/=ihm9jr The 8794K113 4X4 1/2" self-adhesive sheet looks good, at about $12.
I also like the waffle pattern isolators in the 2nd section of this page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-damping-pads/=ihm3a7

Here is a link to a page with schematics/hookups on the Anderson 200 Valve (look for "Four Applications in One Unit" near the center of the page):
http://www.andersonbrass.com/rv_4_function_fill_station.php


If my rig was still under warranty, I would persue getting a replacement converter due to the noise issue preferably through Heartland Service, or contact Progressive HERE: http://www.progressivedyn.com/contactus.html . I also believe Progressive gives some exchange credit for units out of warranty. You might also do a quick check of all the exterior screws on the convertor to see if they are loose.
 
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TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
We changed our pump to a Flojet VSD, which is a variable speed pump. Greatly reduced the noise. Also added an old mousepad underneath to help with vibration.
 

sjs731

Well-known member
My original pump made a lot of noise and seemed to vibrate a lot (Cheng USA). Then the housing broke and now I have a Shur Flo with soft rubber legs and it makes almost no noise.


Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
Now the water switch is not hooked up right. The line to the water pump is easy the other three is not. So what to do to hunt the right ones to get the valve where its right when turned to each one??

Pete

Are you refering to the water heater bypass, winterization valves in the UDC? If so here is a link to a thread with how my lines are hooked up behind the UDC to these switching valves.

Hope this helps,
Brian
 

wildwolfproducts

Well-known member
In the UDC on our Key largo, it had one valve that has 4 positions city water, Tank fill & one is to winterize the system cant remember what the other one is for. These are backwards. May have to just number them the way they are now. Then swap them around until I get the right ones in place.

TedS it may well be the
power transfer relay for the generator. Ours does have the Generator. Will check that out and make sure.

As for the water pump. I will swap out the pex lines to the others and mount it on a pad to make it better. It sounds like a jack hammer when it comes on. Our last unit I used sponges to make it quite. Stuck them in the hard to reach spots that a line was touching the floor or walls.

Heres a link to our UDC and its switches. Should have looked in the manual section of the board that is where I found it.
http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Plumbing/UDC/Anderson/UDC_4_Way_Valve.pdf
 
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