Roof Deck to Truss seperation

We purchased a 2012 Bighorn Ti32 last fall , love it except...

This spring I discovered that the end of the deck panel just behind the bathroom skylight was no longer secured to the roof truss. It will move down a 1/4 inch or so before it makes contact with the truss. In line accross the roof from this (towards the door), there is also another short section of panel next to the vents that can be pressed down (thumb pressure) and makes no contact with a support/truss .

Heartland Service, who does not consider this as a warranty item, tells me that this is "...where they run our wire channel across the roof and they have never had an issue with it, it will not affect the structure of the unit". They also tell me that this is not uncommon. Has anyone else experienced simmilar issues?

Is it something that I should not worry about? ...I have concerns over structural integrity first, and loss of re-sale value second.

Hi Ray,

Looks like you've been a silent participant on the forum for a while, so I'm sure you know this is a great place to get information and help.

I'm not quite sure from your description just what part of the roof is being inspected. Perhaps a photo with notation, or a drawing would help everyone understand more clearly.

I think I have heard that there is a cable channel running the length of the roof, under the metal flashing where the top of the roof curves around to meet the sidewalls. Not sure if that's what you're looking at.

Also, when you say "no longer secured" is that because you know for certain that this area of the roof was previously more secure, or are you assuming that it was previously more secure?

I think if you can clarify a bit, you'll get responses that are more accurate and useful.

Ray,

I had a situation last year, where I noticed one panel near the rear of the BH was lifting (floating) about 1/2" at a joint on the roof, under the rubber membrane.

It was where the panel joined an adjacent panel on a roof truss. The rubber was still intact, so the waterproof integrity of the roof was not jeopardized.

I had my rig in for service and pointed it out to the tech. He agreed that it would only deteriorate over time, as there was an ever widening air space under the membrane.

HL customer service also agreed and covered all repairs under warranty. (thank you HL)

They were required to pull back all the rubber, secure the panel and replace the rubber. It has been perfect since.

Not sure if it is the exact condition you are describing, but it sounds very similar.

To answer your question, if it is anything like what I have described, I would ask for a second opinion.

There is a lot of turbulence on the roof. I like to have everything secure up there. You need a good solid platform to adhere the rubber to. JMHO Trace

I would call HL customer service again and ask to speak to a supervisor. You need to make sure that this is a normal condition or needs attention before it get worse and the warranty is over.
Don

thanks for all the quick replies ...I was off trying to figure out how to add images/video as Dan was suggesting, I may have been successful below ...I be a forum newbie.

Trace, sounds like the same situation to me. Everything is still weather tight, just not so good under the rubber. when you mention the turbulance it occurs to me that this is right behind the bathroom skylight, low pressure from the bernoulli effect may be causing some lifting.

You've convinced me that I need to escalate this with HL customer service.

Here's a videoI sent HL customer Service after they declined my local dealers request for warranty coverage:

Watched your video. I'm on my Landmark roof frequently. When skiing, I sometimes am crawling around up there every day. All over. Nothing like that happens anywhere on my roof.

Is the panel adjacent to the one you are pushing on also "loose"? It appears the two panels are aligned when you release the panel you are pushing on.

In my case the loose panel lifted the EPDM by about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. When I pressed on my loose panel it aligned with the tight panel.

My fix was to screw down the panel through the existing EPDM and cover with a Dicor patch panel and lap sealant. My repair has been fine for over a year now.

Brian

brianharrison said:

Is the panel adjacent to the one you are pushing on also "loose"? It appears the two panels are aligned when you release the panel you are pushing on.

Brian

Click to expand...

The panel in the first shot of the video, when pushed down to make contact with the roof truss is aligned vertically with the panel behind it. There is a 1/4 to 1/2 inch gap horizontally between them, but I suspect that isn't much of a concern (needs a little room for expansion/contraction anyway). I expect your solution is the most practicle, although putting holes in the membrane on a brand new rig is disconcerning. To me, this is an affirmation that it should be fixed ...and not 'just let go'.

The second shot in the video is a shorter section that has no apparent backing at all.

I'm inclined to think that Heartland should be defining the 'how', since they know the construction. I don't want to be putting a screw throught the wiring ...for example.

I've attached a picture of where the problem area is.

I'm inclined to think that Heartland should be defining the 'how', since they know the construction. I don't want to be putting a screw throught the wiring ...for example.

Click to expand...

Ray, I think this is an excellent point. You should press Heartland for specific direction on how the roof should be secured.

Some other things to consider.

Putting in screws and sealing/covering with Eternabond tape is probably the fastest and least invasive way to make the repair. The downside is that if you expect to sell or trade the trailer in a few years, the patched roof may be a detractor. If you plan to keep the trailer for a long time, it probably won't matter.

On the other hand, the alternative is a very invasive repair where the rubber roof is removed and completely replaced, along with the top surface/luan, after putting in screws to fix the structural issue. All of the rooftop A/C units, ladder, vents, skylights, and fans have to be removed, replaced, recaulked. The rubber roof overhang under front and rear caps will probably not be redone the same way, creating new critical maintenance points where the caps join the roof. There's a lot of potential to create problems that might not show up for a while.

Invasive repairs are unsettling to me, so I might go for the simpler fix.

Dan, thanks for the very good points on the invasive repair. Particularly around the end caps, I would never have thought about that. I am very leary about creating more problems then we fix.

I have since talked with one of HL's certified Tech's. The biggest revelation was that they had changed the roof construction. Somehow I missed that, I was thinking my roof was the 16"OC aluminum trusses with 3/8" decking ...'there's my problem'. In actual fact it is laminated foam/luan with very few trusses. Apparently the movement I am seeing is the luan over a chase (channel) for wiring. The luan behind the bathroom skylight is presumably being stopped by the foam, not a truss. Hence there is nothing to 'screw' to. At this point I'm assuming that it doesn't hit enough foam to make repair (re-lamination?) worthwhile with regard to both cost or structural value.

The tech is sending me a brochure complete with pictures that I hope will put my mind at ease. I'll post whatever new information I glean should it help someone else. I did find this video on the Heartland site, that I don't believe was there when we were shopping. Incidentally, I also talked to the dealer in Indiana where we purchased, apparently they have seen this 'many times' before ...all new to me .

In your photos of the roof, there were two toadstool type roof vents shown there. If that roof on your TI, were a non truss fully laminated roof like the true big horns are supposed to be.... I am pretty sure they wont have vents. Now if the roof were the truss type that is NOT laminated it should have those vents like the roof contruction on the elkridge, cyclone, and big horn silverado class coaches.

sengli said:

In your photos of the roof, there were two toadstool type roof vents shown there. If that roof on your TI, were a non truss fully laminated roof like the true big horns are supposed to be.... I am pretty sure they wont have vents. Now if the roof were the truss type that is NOT laminated it should have those vents like the roof contruction on the elkridge, cyclone, and big horn silverado class coaches.

Click to expand...

Without having the toad stool vents how will things flush and how will the water go down the drain. I thought the purpose of the stink pipes and vents was to equalize the pressure in the holding tank. Things may work under pressure but if it is by gravity that air has to be displaced somewhere. Think of a balloon and trying to poor water into it with a funnel. Same thing with a holding tank, but then I may be full of hot air and no place for it to go.

sengli said:

In your photos of the roof, there were two toadstool type roof vents shown there. If that roof on your TI, were a non truss fully laminated roof like the true big horns are supposed to be.... I am pretty sure they wont have vents. Now if the roof were the truss type that is NOT laminated it should have those vents like the roof contruction on the elkridge, cyclone, and big horn silverado class coaches.

Click to expand...

I think there is some confusion here.

The vents are for the sewer lines. They are not "attic" vents, such as a similar SOB product line has.
There is no need for them with the HL design. Trace.