Mounting Solar Panel

62cwil

Active Member
I am ready to install my Go-Power 155 watt panel to my Heartland 29 SBRL. My question is when I screw down do I need to hit truss or is plywood sufficient? How thick is plywood. Also, if I need to hit truss how far apart are they spaced. If anyone has diagram of roof would love to have. Also, what size and type of screws did you use. I have seen a video on Go-Power re mounting and I understand using dicor heavy under the feet and after screwing down heavy on top. I plan to go down the fridge vent and fish out the wire to mount the regulator inside and then down to bottom and fish wire up to battery. In the video I saw it showed mounting just above fridge but on my model it is open with decorative woodwork above my fridge so not sure where to mount yet. If anyone has a better way or any suggestions I sure would appreciate it. Charles
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
I'd like to share some ideas. Many RV folks like to permanently mount their cells for obvious reasons. The roof is 1/4" luan plywood with a membrane about as thick as a pool liner over it. Under that is foam insulation. What if, you snag a low hanging branch unroute... just a thought - especially if you screwed into the aluminum roof trusses. If you park/camp under trees... well you know the answer. If the PV's ( Photo voltaic cells ) point straight up they miss a lot of what they need most, southern exposure at about a 45 degree angle. How about a ground adjustable frame with your cells on it pointing the way they need to be ( at the sun ) and a cable supplying your RV... or the next RV or the one after, because they are easily transferable, just a thought. Keep in mind, many folks have their PV's mounted on the roof and they are happier then a... fill in the blank. I spent the last 5 years of my career, developing and improving PV's and fuel cells (the ugly useless cousin) and these are just some ideas for a Rver. In either case Happy Rving !
 

62cwil

Active Member
I wish I could go with your suggestions but I just don't have any spare room and afraid I would brake panel. We travel a lot and am crammed as it is.

If you have any other suggestions on how I can mount please let me know.

Appreciate it if anyone else would chime in with suggestions.
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
What others have done is :

01). Mount directly to the aluminum cross members (rafters). They got the spacing from HL customer service department, or

02). Mount between the rafters using soft rubber well nuts which expand and grip when you tighten the bolt into them.

This is an oversimplification of course. I believe Dan attached a hot link in his post to you. You may want to click on it and see what is explained. I would not do anything until I read the various post on this forum. You may want to click on forum post drop down box "The Last Two Weeks" because I believe it was explained in detail there last week or so. Some of the folks are quite talented and already invented the wheel so you don't have to. You'll read one who is pro rafter and one pro roof... they offer why. The choice is yours to make. I'm sure as questions pop up you'll find the answer on this forum. I would suggest a quality regulator be installed to prevent over-charging the battery.

Good Luck and Happy Rving !
 

RollingHome

Well-known member
You also had asked for suggestions on running the cable. May I suggest looking at the plumbing vents. These have little dome caps on them with lots of Dicor around the vent pipe. If you dig that Dicor goop out there may be room to run the cable down into the belly of the beast directly. If you have a W&D hook up that may be close to your house battery. Choose the vent closest to your battery and direct to your basement. A fishing weight on a string is a great way to install a pull string which gets attached to the cable.

You can secure the cable to the roof membrane using wide roof tape or Dicor tape. Scrub the dirt off first and apply. My cousin did this from the rear video camera to the front of his landmark, down vent pipe and it works fine.

While you are on your roof watch for and DO NOT STEP on roof zits. These are little bumps under your membrane. Many RV's (ALL brands) which roll out of Elkhart, IA have them. These were caused when the workers applied the membrane and didn't get every debris particle off before gluing the membrane down. The particle is there for the life of the RV. Stepping on them can make holes. :(

Happy RVing !
 

crazybanshee

Well-known member
62 I have five panels on our roof that have been there for 5 years. Dicor under the bracket and 1/4" by 1" lag screws into the plywood. One in each corner of the panel. I have driven 75mph into a 50mph headwind and the panels have not moved. A little dicor to hold down the wires on the roof. Ran the wires down the tank vent pipe.
Doug
 

rickj202

Member
62 I have five panels on our roof that have been there for 5 years. Dicor under the bracket and 1/4" by 1" lag screws into the plywood. One in each corner of the panel. I have driven 75mph into a 50mph headwind and the panels have not moved. A little dicor to hold down the wires on the roof. Ran the wires down the tank vent pipe.
Doug

How many watts is your system? How did you tie your inverter in to the trailer?

Thanks,

Rick
 

62cwil

Active Member
How many watts is your system? How did you tie your inverter in to the trailer?

Thanks,

Rick

155 Watts. I didn't tie to system only panel to regulator and then regulator to battery. I already had an inverter that I mounted up front of 1000 watts but was not tied to system. If when no hookups available I run my CPAP or TV via extension chords from my inverter directly to them. My friend who is dealer will be in my area in October and I will get him to help me figure out a better way to do if possible with my current inverter.
 

crazybanshee

Well-known member
Our system is 700 watts connected to six 6v batteries. The inverter has a built in transfer switch so I tied it into the bedroom and entertainment circuits in the breaker panel. With shore power or genny on the plugs have power but when boondocking and the inverter on those plugs have 120 volts.
 

62cwil

Active Member
When my friend gets here I will show him your post and see how I can fix mine. Thanks for info.
 

rickj202

Member
Our system is 700 watts connected to six 6v batteries. The inverter has a built in transfer switch so I tied it into the bedroom and entertainment circuits in the breaker panel. With shore power or genny on the plugs have power but when boondocking and the inverter on those plugs have 120 volts.


Thanks, how many watts is your inverter? WHat brand inverter and solar charger did you go with? Does the six batteries give you plenty of inverter time to last thru the night?

Rick
 

crazybanshee

Well-known member
The inverter ia a Xantrex prosine 1800w with built in transfer switch. I use two Blue Sky SB2000e charge controlers. 400 watts panels and one controller, plus four batteries in the front compartment. 300 watts panels and one controller, plus two batteries in the garage. Tied together with a 4 guage cable. The kids can play video games or watch sat TV all day and night without a problem. During the day solar makes more power than we use so batteries are full till the sun goes down. Wife likes it warm so the stat is set at 70 degrees 24/7.
 
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