Using 120V adapter to plug into GFCI receptacle

Has anyone had a problem when trying use an adapter to temporarily plug RV into GFCI receptacle. I have a new Landmark and every time I try to plug into the GFCI receptacle it trips the GFCI unit. I do not have any loads on, it is not an overload situation.
 

rick_debbie_gallant

Well-known member
Which adapter are you using? Are you using the 15 amp and 30 amp to connect to the 50 amp at the trailer? If you are, then that may be the problem.
 

TedS

Well-known member
My Bighorn would not run when I plugged the 50-amp cord into the 50 to 30-amp adapter into the 30 to 15-amp adapter into a GFI protected house circuit. It would work when I plugged into a 15-amp non-GFI circuit.
I ended up running a separate non-GFI 50-amp circuit for the rv.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Has anyone had a problem when trying use an adapter to temporarily plug RV into GFCI receptacle. I have a new Landmark and every time I try to plug into the GFCI receptacle it trips the GFCI unit. I do not have any loads on, it is not an overload situation.
The GFCI breaker trips to protect you from a potentially dangerous situation. It may be tripping because you have a problem either with your adapters, or with something in the trailer.

Another thread recently suggested using a non-contact voltage tester to make sure you don't have electric current leaking to the frame of the RV. Home Depot sells these for around $10.

You should investigate why the GFCI is tripping.
 

RCF

Active Member
Just brought the BH home tonight from storage and plugged in to house GFCI outlet on porch using an extension cord, the 15A triangle adaptor and a 50A to 30A adaptor. Worked fine for me, only thing running is fridge so we can put the food in tomorrow prior to heading out for the weekend.
 

rick_debbie_gallant

Well-known member
I have been using a 30amp cord set to a 50 amp dogbone adapter and it works great. I don't use the air so I am not worried about overloading anything. When I return home in a couple Of Weeks I will be running a 50 service
For our rig.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I had this sort of problem when staying in a small park in the Seattle area that only had 15 amp GFI outlet at the space I was in. The rig initially worked O.K., but tripped the GFI the next morning after I used the microwave. Here's what I suggest you do to find the potential electrical leakage problem.

Do your best with a meter to verify that your trailer chassis is connected to earth ground.

1. Turn off all trailer Circuit breakers.
2. Reset the supply GFI
3. Turn on the trailer Main Breakers - Did the GFI trip?
4. Turn on the individual breakers one by one, checking each time if the GFI trips. It will be handy to turn on a lamp, or device with a power indication as the first individual breaker, to know when the supply GFI trips.
5. When you turn on the breaker that trips the supply GFI, you have found the circuit with the electrical leakage problem device.

For me in Seattle, the leakage problem was due to moisture buildup in the microwave from food steam. Drying out the microwave got rid of the problem.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I just bought a Progressive Industries Cheater Box http://www.progressiveindustries.net/cheater_box.htm to connect a 30A line to each leg of my 50A cord. It states right on the device "Will not operate when plugged into a GFCI circuit"


I believe that the 15 amp outlet and the 30 amp outlet on most park electric supply pedistals are both wired to the same 30 amp circuit breaker, thus you cannot get more than 30 amps (the breaker rating) out of that supply, even when the plugs are combined.

Most 30 amp park outlets are not GFI protected. That would require a special 30 amp GFI circuit breaker. I am guessing that when using this cheater some of the current supplied by the GFI protected 15 amp outlet may return to the power source via the 30 amp plug. This would cause the GFI outlet to trip as it stays on only with a balance of the current in the hot and neutral wires. An imbalance is sensed as a leakage fault, and although the leakage may be going harmlessly through the ground wire, in case the grounding is faulty the power is shut down on the assumption the leakage current is going through a person and causing electrical shock.
 

BarneyFife

Well-known member
My Bighorn would not run when I plugged the 50-amp cord into the 50 to 30-amp adapter into the 30 to 15-amp adapter into a GFI protected house circuit. It would work when I plugged into a 15-amp non-GFI circuit.
I ended up running a separate non-GFI 50-amp circuit for the rv.

This is the method I use with our Cyclone. Runs the refrigerator, lights, and fantastic fan with no problems before a trip while we load up. This is on a GFI outlet. Every now and then, the cord plugged into the GFI outlet makes a buzzing sound but doesn't trip.
 

NWILSON

Kentucky Chapter Leaders - retired
I believe that the 15 amp outlet and the 30 amp outlet on most park electric supply pedistals are both wired to the same 30 amp circuit breaker, thus you cannot get more than 30 amps (the breaker rating) out of that supply, even when the plugs are combined.

The instructions say that each leg should be powered through a different breaker.
 

jolar3329

Well-known member
I had the same problem. 50 to 30 and 30 to 15 adapter. Dealer checked out trailer, no problem found. I replaced the GFI outlet with a standard outlet. No problem since 2008.
 

dbbls59

Well-known member
Seems like I remember reading that you can not have two GFCI outlets in a line. There is one in the trailer and you are plugging into one, that is two in a line. Won't work.
 

dave10a

Well-known member
The folks who design power system go out of their way to make things safe. The GFCI is designed to do just that. Therefore it is impossible to use the cheater 30/20 adapters with a GFCI plug at the campground. However one can install a device that will work while being meeting the codes http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/jtb-power-solution/57161. It is somewhat over priced for what it does but it is safe. If one understands how GFCI work and is knowlegable about electricity, they can build their own system for less than $50. Otherwise leave it to the qualified people or buy an off the shelf system if you do not really understand electricity.
 

Willym

Well-known member
My trailer supply line at home is GFCI protected, and I have had no issues with the line GFCI tripping. I've also plugged into GFCI protected supplies at a number of campgrounds with no issues. You only only need small leakage to ground (10 miiliamps IIRC) to trip a GFCI.

Seems like I remember reading that you can not have two GFCI outlets in a line. There is one in the trailer and you are plugging into one, that is two in a line. Won't work.
 

pegmikef

Well-known member
Seems like I remember reading that you can not have two GFCI outlets in a line. There is one in the trailer and you are plugging into one, that is two in a line. Won't work.

Different circuits (shore power source and trailer circuits) so they are not really in line.
 
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