I am considering purchasing a ER29RKSA to live in for a year or so as we build a new home. We live where the temperature can drop to 0 degrees F. for a week or two plus we can have extended periods of cold below 32 degrees F. Can anyone give me your experience on how well the Eldridge products do in freezing weather? Do they have any issues with water pipes freezing? Drain pipes freezing? With comfort level? Plus any other thoughts. I am close to ordering a new unit and need your comments. Thanks
Freezing weather experiance
- Thread starter dle
- Start date
Dle, welcome to the forum. This is a great place to share information about our rigs.
I think that no matter what coach you own, to have an extended stay in cold weather you will need to take some precautions.
Here is a link to a thread posted a few years ago by member Htneighbors showing some of his modifications for cold weather.
He wintered in Wyoming and survived.
Peace
Dave
I think that no matter what coach you own, to have an extended stay in cold weather you will need to take some precautions.
Here is a link to a thread posted a few years ago by member Htneighbors showing some of his modifications for cold weather.
He wintered in Wyoming and survived.
Peace
Dave
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
dle,
We have a 2010 ElkRidge 34QSRL. We like to go skiing. Our first experience was Santa Fe, NM for a week, and we did fine... Even when it snowed. But the temps were above freezing during the day. We ran off our fresh tank for water, filled during the day when warmer.
Our second experience was Durango, CO for 10 days. We got 13" of snow and temps at -26*. We had frozen fresh pipes, even though we had a light pointed at the UDC for warmth and the furnace running non-stop. We had supplemental forced-air heaters inside as well. We had lots of condensation on the inside of slides, that froze. We ran off fresh tank water, filled daily during the day.
We added tank heater, pipe heaters, eliminated the low-point drains on kitchen pipes, insulated all pec runs we could see, wrapped as much of drainpipes as we could with insulating wrap.
Our third trip was Breckenridge, Co for 10 days, temps in the 20s and teens...and we had no issues with pipes, but still had condensation inside. We added a small electric fireplace, which helped overall. Ran off fresh tank., filled daily during the day. Much harder when temp isn't above freezing!
I would consider a rig more suited for full-time use like a Big Horn, Big Country or Landmark. Definitely get dual-pane windows and Yetti package as well.
It will still be a bit of a challenge, But those rigs have a better starting point.
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We have a 2010 ElkRidge 34QSRL. We like to go skiing. Our first experience was Santa Fe, NM for a week, and we did fine... Even when it snowed. But the temps were above freezing during the day. We ran off our fresh tank for water, filled during the day when warmer.
Our second experience was Durango, CO for 10 days. We got 13" of snow and temps at -26*. We had frozen fresh pipes, even though we had a light pointed at the UDC for warmth and the furnace running non-stop. We had supplemental forced-air heaters inside as well. We had lots of condensation on the inside of slides, that froze. We ran off fresh tank water, filled daily during the day.
We added tank heater, pipe heaters, eliminated the low-point drains on kitchen pipes, insulated all pec runs we could see, wrapped as much of drainpipes as we could with insulating wrap.
Our third trip was Breckenridge, Co for 10 days, temps in the 20s and teens...and we had no issues with pipes, but still had condensation inside. We added a small electric fireplace, which helped overall. Ran off fresh tank., filled daily during the day. Much harder when temp isn't above freezing!
I would consider a rig more suited for full-time use like a Big Horn, Big Country or Landmark. Definitely get dual-pane windows and Yetti package as well.
It will still be a bit of a challenge, But those rigs have a better starting point.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The elkridges only have a layer of coroplast with a thin bubble wrap type insulative foil in the belly. And that doesnt seal very tight. None of the water lines are protected against that much cold. So your going to have stuff freeze up pretty quickly and the heater is going to be maxed out all the time at the 0 and below temps. Now if you seal the bottom with an insulative skirt it would help, but still the coaches aren't air tight like a house.
Hello to all. Me and my wife purchased a 2013 Roadwarrior rw 400 in January and are now going to become fulltimers and work camp in NM In oct to may. My question is our rv has the enclosed underbelly ,is that with the heater on enough to keep my tanks and pipes from freezing? Average lows in the winter are 20-25 degrees.I looked at the ultra heat website and saw the tank heaters and they look simple enough to install but we are on a budget. Since we re not paying for elec will the tank heaters be worth it to save on propane? Thanks for any help .
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi cptjack,
In my opinion, the underbelly heating is not a good substitute for tank heating pads.
First, the underbelly heat comes through a 2" duct that enters the underbelly slightly aft of the furnace. On our Landmark, the hose is positioned aft of the black and gray #1 tanks, so the heat from the duct largely misses those tanks. It's probably most effective at keeping the gray #2 tank slightly warm. The fresh tank is pretty far away from the hose.
Second, if you ever ran out of propane on a sub-freezing night, or had a furnace lockout due to marginal gas pressure or an improperly opened valve, you might end up with a frozen holding tank.
Third, average temps are just averages. You might want to look at historical low temps. Weatherspark.com will let you see the averages as well as historic lows. Albuquerque for example averages a low around 25, but has seen -7(F).
You might want to take a look at our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide. It has a few other tips you might find useful.
In my opinion, the underbelly heating is not a good substitute for tank heating pads.
First, the underbelly heat comes through a 2" duct that enters the underbelly slightly aft of the furnace. On our Landmark, the hose is positioned aft of the black and gray #1 tanks, so the heat from the duct largely misses those tanks. It's probably most effective at keeping the gray #2 tank slightly warm. The fresh tank is pretty far away from the hose.
Second, if you ever ran out of propane on a sub-freezing night, or had a furnace lockout due to marginal gas pressure or an improperly opened valve, you might end up with a frozen holding tank.
Third, average temps are just averages. You might want to look at historical low temps. Weatherspark.com will let you see the averages as well as historic lows. Albuquerque for example averages a low around 25, but has seen -7(F).
You might want to take a look at our owner-written Water Systems Winter Usage Guide. It has a few other tips you might find useful.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
We went with ultra heat. One thing to consider is AC or DC. Since we had no extra breaker space, we opted for DC heaters since we had space in the fuse panel. We put a tank heater on the fresh water only, mainly because we felt it was the most critical. Our grey 2 and black tanks seemed to get plenty of the underbelly heat. We added pipe heaters to the water line between the fresh water tank and the pump, then added some to the cold and hot lines going to the kitchen sink, since it was the farthest away from the underbelly heating and the first place to freeze. We also removed the low point drains. We moved the fresh tank drain valve up into the underbelly and tuck this line inside the underbelly, until its needed.
We added the tank/pipe heater on-off switches into the panel where all switches and tank monitors are, inside the coach. The tank heater has a thermostat that can turn it on and off, but the pipe heaters don't - it can be added.
Be conscious of the amp draw and using the product properly -- don't run them without liquid present in tanks or pipes, and don't operate when temps are over 40*.
Removing/reattaching the underbelly coroplast is the really hardest part of this mod.
Oh, and be prepared for a shock at the wiring craziness under there! I zip-tied a lot for organization, and caught some loose wire nuts too.
Erika
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We added the tank/pipe heater on-off switches into the panel where all switches and tank monitors are, inside the coach. The tank heater has a thermostat that can turn it on and off, but the pipe heaters don't - it can be added.
Be conscious of the amp draw and using the product properly -- don't run them without liquid present in tanks or pipes, and don't operate when temps are over 40*.
Removing/reattaching the underbelly coroplast is the really hardest part of this mod.
Oh, and be prepared for a shock at the wiring craziness under there! I zip-tied a lot for organization, and caught some loose wire nuts too.
Erika
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I talked to a rv repair service in Ruidoso, NM and asked him what everyone else did there and how much they would charge to winterize my rv with tank heaters etc and he tried to talk me out of it saying it's not necessary and that all I have to do is keep my furnace on and leave the gray tanks open so no water stays in them and wrap the hose and pipes with heat tape? Any one have any feedback on this? I want to save money but in the long run if my tanks freeze it will cost me more.Thanks
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi cptjack,
Weatherspark shows the mean winter low as 24 (F). "Mean" is an average, so sometimes it's higher, sometimes lower. The historical low was -13.
So if you were going to hedge your bets, you'd leave the gray valves open as the tech suggested, keep the fresh tank empty, and take your chances that the furnace heat will protect your black tank. If it's a typical winter, you'll probably be ok.
If you'll be there a while and want inexpensive extra protection, get 3/4" foam board and duct tape and build a mini-skirt under the rig to provide added protection for the black tank and sewer lines. You can place a small heater or heat lamp in the enclosure to keep the underbelly warm. See the Water Systems Guide or Water Systems Winter Usage Guide for a bit more detail.
Weatherspark shows the mean winter low as 24 (F). "Mean" is an average, so sometimes it's higher, sometimes lower. The historical low was -13.
So if you were going to hedge your bets, you'd leave the gray valves open as the tech suggested, keep the fresh tank empty, and take your chances that the furnace heat will protect your black tank. If it's a typical winter, you'll probably be ok.
If you'll be there a while and want inexpensive extra protection, get 3/4" foam board and duct tape and build a mini-skirt under the rig to provide added protection for the black tank and sewer lines. You can place a small heater or heat lamp in the enclosure to keep the underbelly warm. See the Water Systems Guide or Water Systems Winter Usage Guide for a bit more detail.
danemayer
Well-known member
That plan might work. The one issue you may run into is the placement of the black tank. On our Landmark, it's above the gray #1 tank. If yours is similarly place, I don't know if it can be installed without removing the gray #1 tank.
Another thought would be to watch the weather forecasts. If temps are dropping below 25 (F), maybe dump the black tank and use the park facilities until it gets warmer. Or dump the black tank ahead of the freeze and add a gallon of RV antifreeze through the toilet so you can keep the nearly empty tank from freezing overnight. If it only gets really cold every once in a while, $4 a gallon for antifreeze might be ok.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Dan, In the Elkridge, the tanks aren't as big, and we don't have a drop frame, so they aren't stacked. So likely the black tank is right below the bathroom, under the floor of the basement. Further back is the fresh tank, and further still (over the rear axles) is a grey tank (kitchen). The other grey tank (bath) is forward of the black tank.
cptjack, I think you'll have to do some investigating by taking down the underbelly and seeing your arrangement. Look for the vent into the underbelly. Crank up the heater and see how much hot air is coming out, and where.
cptjack, I think you'll have to do some investigating by taking down the underbelly and seeing your arrangement. Look for the vent into the underbelly. Crank up the heater and see how much hot air is coming out, and where.
Thanks for all the info. I looked under the trl and its closed in pretty tight so I can't really see where anything is without some major deconstruction. I guess i'm gonna wait till I get there and see what all the other rvers are doing. But what I will probably do is leave the gray water tanks open and if it's gonna freeze dump my black water before and then put some antifreeze in it till it warms up.
