Converter noise

BCadventure

Member
We have a 2010 Greystone, purchased new, and recently we think the converter has been going on the fritz. It started making a loud humming sound that stops when the fan comes on. When the humming sounds, the 12V lights' intensity flickers a bit and if the furnace is running it seems to lose some power. This seems that have started after we found a sudden drop in the water level of our battery (it had been consistently level up to that point and we had to add what seemed like quite a bit at once). I think it may be related. Anyone else has experienced this? We are learning our way around Rv living through trial and errors so we don't want to do anything to mess it up. I'm getting ready to call the repair guy in desperation...

Thanks for any help/ suggestions.

James & Barb
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Your converter may be giving up the ghost.
HERE is a link to the manufacturers troubleshooting guide.
Hope that helps some.
Oh, welcome to the forum.

Peace
Dave
 

danemayer

Well-known member
You may have a converter problem, but you may also have a battery problem. When not plugged into shore power, the converter isn't powered. But if the battery is charged, your lights and furnace should run ok. I believe that if the battery is discharged, the converter will normally supply enough power to the 12V systems for everything to run without battery. So if you have these symptoms while on shore power, it suggests that both the converter and battery are failing to supply enough power.

A fault in the converter could allow the battery to run down, or could cause the water to boil off, which may have ruined the battery.

So even if you replace the converter, you may still have problems due to the condition of the battery.
 

BCadventure

Member
You may have a converter problem, but you may also have a battery problem. When not plugged into shore power, the converter isn't powered. But if the battery is charged, your lights and furnace should run ok. I believe that if the battery is discharged, the converter will normally supply enough power to the 12V systems for everything to run without battery. So if you have these symptoms while on shore power, it suggests that both the converter and battery are failing to supply enough power.

A fault in the converter could allow the battery to run down, or could cause the water to boil off, which may have ruined the battery.

So even if you replace the converter, you may still have problems due to the condition of the battery.

Thank you! That's what I was afraid of. It is such an awkward spot to work in (for the converter). I guess I will test the converter (as suggested by the other poster) and have the battery tested this weekend and decide if we will call the repair guy or attempt to fix it ourselves. It sounds like it will be expen$ive either way...:(
 

SJH

Past Washington Chapter Leaders
Many of the converter manufacturers, Progressive Dynamics for one, warranty their products for two years. I see you have a 2010 rig but if the two years has expired it still might be worth contacting the manufacturer about the issue!

Best Wishes!

PS I see you are from BC..we reside about two miles from the Aldergrove crossing. I would like to include you in our HOC WA Chapter mailings if you are interested! PM me with an email address if you wish! We have a campout October 26 in Anacortes.
 

beasleyrl

Well-known member
If your converter is bad, you may want to check with the manufacturer even if it is out of warranty. Ours went bad last year on a trip to Maine. We had problems finding one locally due to the size so I called Progressive. They had an option to replace it with a refurb (and full new warranty) for about $100. They also offered next day and 2 day shipping as an option so it was delivered right to the CG.
 

BCadventure

Member
Thank you for the suggestion. We will definitely try the converter manufacturer & Heartland first (hoping it doesn't conk out on us for good in the meantime). We checked pricing at the local RV dealers and they charge $400+ for the unit! Don't think so... if I can't arrange anything through Progressive/ Heartland, I'll keep shopping online as this appears the be the next best option.
 

BCadventure

Member
Our current one is a 40amp...would going for an 80amp one be overkill? We were thinking of going for a 45amp one instead of the 40amp. Living in the trailer year-round, it's obviously working all the time so we would prefer to not have to do this every 2 years if possible.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I pointed to the 80amp unit to give you the worst case pricing, not knowing which one you have. I don't know that there's any reason to think that putting in a higher capacity unit would improve the life of the unit. Things fail. But there don't seem to be any widespread reports of converter failures, so your next one will probably work fine. Unless you're planning to add 12V devices, I would stick with a direct replacement.
 
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