Sediment in Hot Water Heater

lorax

Well-known member
I've just finished winterizing our Prowler and after removing the Anode rod I found the tank with about an inch of white sediment. I have pulled a hot water plug many times but this is a first. Often there is some sediment in the water, but not built up like this. Could this be because we spent three months in Tuscon last winter? In the past we have moved around. Last year we stayed put.

Also, how do I get ride of it? Can I just blast it out with a stream of water? Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, what a dream to winterize my Heartland trailer. I've scrambled under our Keystone Zeppelin and our KZ Spree and got wet, etc. The Prowler was veery easy.

Ted
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
that looks like the same tools that I made it's really easy to make 1 from A toilet supply line

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Do you use any water filtration to supply your rig? Might be a good idea to consider it, if you're getting water with high mineral content. How does your anode rod look?
 

Birchwood

Well-known member
After 6 months in Florida we also have a calcium buildup in our tank.I have a copper nozzle with holes
in it (I made) that blasts it clear.CLR can also be used if its really caked onto the inside of the tank.
 

lwmcguir

Well-known member
I've just finished winterizing our Prowler and after removing the Anode rod I found the tank with about an inch of white sediment. I have pulled a hot water plug many times but this is a first. Often there is some sediment in the water, but not built up like this. Could this be because we spent three months in Tuscon last winter? In the past we have moved around. Last year we stayed put.

Also, how do I get ride of it? Can I just blast it out with a stream of water? Any help would be appreciated.

BTW, what a dream to winterize my Heartland trailer. I've scrambled under our Keystone Zeppelin and our KZ Spree and got wet, etc. The Prowler was veery easy.

Ted
This just shows the anode was working as it should. The water hardness and temperature setting on the heater also will tend to make the water more scaling as well as increase the corrosion tendency. The LSI "saturation index" of the water goes up or down based on the pH, Ca, M alk, TDS, and temp. The water with increased amount of TDS will usually scale easier but varies based on the analytes in the water.
 

jimpav

Well-known member
I've discovered something else in my suburban (anode) H2O heater. There appears to be a bunch of tan colored dish shaped ceramic looking pieces all over the bottom, below the drain plug. I inserted a video probe and think I've identified the origin. They seem to have flaked(?) off of the heating element. I wondering if this is normal, and what effects they would have if sucked into the system tube? The heater is only two years old and is drained after every trip. I also wonder the effect on the element???? Will it rust out now??? see attached photo2009-02-25 02.23.51.jpg2009-02-25 02.21.38.jpg2009-02-25 02.20.40.jpg
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I use one similar to this... I use it every 3 months.

I have also found that the water heater flushing tool is a good fresh water tank filler hose end. It goes down the tube, and you can adjust the flow rate with the valve.
 

Willym

Well-known member
Nice photos with the probe. What you are seeing is scale forming on the heater element, and then breaking off. This is from dissolved minerals i.e. hard water, in the water coming out of solution when boiling occurs at the element. The harder the water, the more scale you will get. Regular filters won't help much, an Ion exchange column (water softener, or Reverse Osmosis set up will take most of it out.
I get scale in my heater, and flush it out regularly. Draining helps, but flushing gets much more of the scale out. It doesn't seem to get out of the heater into the hot water plumbing. It probably would if the build up got to an extreme level. Elements don't last forever, and water hardness will reduce their life as scale build up will decrease heat transfer rates, and hence increase their operating temperature.

I've discovered something else in my suburban (anode) H2O heater. There appears to be a bunch of tan colored dish shaped ceramic looking pieces all over the bottom, below the drain plug. I inserted a video probe and think I've identified the origin. They seem to have flaked(?) off of the heating element. I wondering if this is normal, and what effects they would have if sucked into the system tube? The heater is only two years old and is drained after every trip. I also wonder the effect on the element???? Will it rust out now??? see attached photoView attachment 21873View attachment 21872View attachment 21874
 

jimpav

Well-known member
Nice photos with the probe. What you are seeing is scale forming on the heater element, and then breaking off. This is from dissolved minerals i.e. hard water, in the water coming out of solution when boiling occurs at the element. The harder the water, the more scale you will get. Regular filters won't help much, an Ion exchange column (water softener, or Reverse Osmosis set up will take most of it out.
I get scale in my heater, and flush it out regularly. Draining helps, but flushing gets much more of the scale out. It doesn't seem to get out of the heater into the hot water plumbing. It probably would if the build up got to an extreme level. Elements don't last forever, and water hardness will reduce their life as scale build up will decrease heat transfer rates, and hence increase their operating temperature.

Thanks for the excellent answer,Bill. The next step is to siphon the remaining water below the drain plug somehow, with hopefully the sediment chunks. I've tried the flush tool, but it would take a day of flushing to get it all out. I even put a fitting on the relief valve and blew air into the tank ( with the valve in open ) , but that also didn't get it out. If I had a tiny adapter for my wet vac, that would apparently work as well. I wonder if would be good to remove the element and at least clean off the deposits to promote better heat transfer???? Thanks again!
 

lorax

Well-known member
Thanks all. I can make a tool for my wet vac to clean it, and now I know that I need to do it regularly. What a great group!!!
Thanks, again,
Ted
 

guyc66

Well-known member
A simple trick to get the stuff off the bottom of the tank that won't flush out is to use a piece of clear tubing duct taped to the end of a wet vac hose. I have used this method for years and it works great. Only costs a buck or two and works like a million bucks!
 

Willym

Well-known member
Jimpav,

I wouldn't recommend removing the heater element to take off the scale, It will just increase the chance of getting a leak at the heater element joint, and removing scale from it physically may damage or weaken the element.
 

jimpav

Well-known member
Jimpav,

I wouldn't recommend removing the heater element to take off the scale, It will just increase the chance of getting a leak at the heater element joint, and removing scale from it physically may damage or weaken the element.

That's interesting, Willym, but I wonder just how efficient my element is with all that scale on it? As I thought it's destined for failure, I bought a gigantic element socket from HD yesterday. The only thing is that it looks like the burner tube is in the way of removing the electric element. I wonder if there's an easier way to remove it?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
I have replaced my heating element in the past.
There is no way around it, you will have to remove the burner tube.

Peace
Dave
 

VideoGuy3

Member
I replaced the element in my Winnebago for around $10.00. The was build up on my element which caused a buzzing noise when heating. New element - no noise.
 

jimpav

Well-known member
I finally managed to get the 1 1/2" thin wall socket to remove the heater element. Soaked it in 50/50 CLR and water overnight and after brushing, it looks like new. guess I'll have to add this to my yearly things to. I'm still left with some chips in the bottom that I hope will dry out by next spring when I can vacuum them out. see photos.IMG_2681.jpgIMG_2693.jpgIMG_2694.jpgIMG_2686.jpgIMG_2692.jpgPIC_0019.JPG
 

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