does propane furnace use any battery
- Thread starter CeeCee
- Start date
jnbhobe
Well-known member
You may be able to get by doing that in an emergency, but you will most likeiy you will want to unplug it at night and run it during the day to charge the battery.
brianharrison
Well-known member
The 40,000 BTU furnace in my Landmark uses 12.4 amps while firing and 11.7 amps when just the fan is running (13.0V). Based on the Ah rating of your battery, you could calculate the hours of continuous running until the battery is completely dead. I usually only discharge a battery to a max of 50% before I look to find a way to recharge.
Brian
Brian
wdk450
Well-known member
The way most trucks are wired, you will need to keep the motor running continuously to charge the battery continuously. You can check this with a voltmeter across the trailer battery. Take a truck unplugged reading, then a plugged-in motor off reading. then a plugged in motor on reading. If I am right, only the 3rd reading will be higher, indicating charging action.
wdk450
Well-known member
First upgrade might be more 12 volt deep cycle batteries in parallel with your main battery for more battery capacity.
If you are thinking generator, the main thing to think about is if you plan to run your air conditioner (about 2000 watts) on the generator. If you have a policy of "If I need air conditioning, I need electrical hookups" then you can get away with a much smaller generator like the Honda 2000. That will be enough to run your next biggest electrical load, the microwave. Of course it can also run all of your smaller loads like converter TV, and even the water heater, when the microwave isn't on. If you overdo the electrical loads, the Honda will simply shed the load (and you will have to go outside and reset it). You can flip breakers/switches to lessen the loads while you use the microwave.
The Honda 2000 is QUIET, light, fuel-efficient, and expandable (with a 2nd 2000 and the parallel kit).
If you are thinking generator, the main thing to think about is if you plan to run your air conditioner (about 2000 watts) on the generator. If you have a policy of "If I need air conditioning, I need electrical hookups" then you can get away with a much smaller generator like the Honda 2000. That will be enough to run your next biggest electrical load, the microwave. Of course it can also run all of your smaller loads like converter TV, and even the water heater, when the microwave isn't on. If you overdo the electrical loads, the Honda will simply shed the load (and you will have to go outside and reset it). You can flip breakers/switches to lessen the loads while you use the microwave.
The Honda 2000 is QUIET, light, fuel-efficient, and expandable (with a 2nd 2000 and the parallel kit).
ericandalice
Senior Question Asker
That is true. We found that out Tuesday night.
Does anyone know how long it takes to charge the battery via umbilical cord?
wdk450
Well-known member
Re: "Does anyone know how long it takes to charge the battery via umbilical cord?"
The progressive converter is rated for up to 60 amps charge current and will bring your batteries up to 90% capacity in 4 hours. Your truck umbilical puts out about 6 amps. Then subtract whatever 12 volt currents you are pulling with lights, refrigerator logic board, etc. You do the math.
The truck charging connection is intended to put SOME charge in your trailer battery for trailer disconnect electrical emergency brake activation.
People who REALLY want to charge their trailer batteries while travelling put in a high current, large wires, large current capacity connectors with large D.C. circuit breaker and isolator (see motorhome house battery wiring).
If you have an emergency situation, I might suggest using jumper cables from your running truck for an hour or so, and testing the battery voltage with lights on and a voltmeter, to get an idea of charge level.
The progressive converter is rated for up to 60 amps charge current and will bring your batteries up to 90% capacity in 4 hours. Your truck umbilical puts out about 6 amps. Then subtract whatever 12 volt currents you are pulling with lights, refrigerator logic board, etc. You do the math.
The truck charging connection is intended to put SOME charge in your trailer battery for trailer disconnect electrical emergency brake activation.
People who REALLY want to charge their trailer batteries while travelling put in a high current, large wires, large current capacity connectors with large D.C. circuit breaker and isolator (see motorhome house battery wiring).
If you have an emergency situation, I might suggest using jumper cables from your running truck for an hour or so, and testing the battery voltage with lights on and a voltmeter, to get an idea of charge level.
