Removing anode from hot water tank

360gal

Member
I can't seem to get the anode removed from the hot water tank to drain it for winter storage.......any ideas?
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Are you using an extension on the socket? I use a 1-1/16" socket with a 1/2" drive and about a 9" to 12" extension. This allows me to lean into it when I pull that big 1/2" socket wrench around. Maybe try spraying some WD40 around the thread area of the anode road and let that soak a bit.

Maybe WD40 isn't the best to use for this but soon, someone far smarter than I on these matters will weigh in.
 

360gal

Member
After 3 trips back to napa auto parts, (and too many swear words) I finally got the right socket 1 1/16, with 3" extension. I did put all my body into it...looks a little corroded, didn't try wd40, hopefully doesn't freeze too long tonight...thanks jim, I will make the 30 min drive again to storage place w wd40 in hand. I managed to get ice maker winterized, but turned on the pump too soon before I closed it up all the way and now have pink in the line....used potable antifreeze..will have t o figure that out in the spring I guess....
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Oh and is this where I look for a husband to do this for me....LOL!!!

Funny Diana :)

A longer extension and using half inch drive tools will do you well. But, don't go buy those - check with a neighbor or friend to borrow that stuff for now.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Because they do rust a bit and can be difficult to remove, I have a 24" breaker bar. It also comes in handy for removing lug nuts when changing a tire.
So that would be a 1/2" drive. That is the size of the square part that goes into your 1 1/16 socket.

Peace
Dave
 

360gal

Member
Thank you Dave...I did purchase an adapter for the socket, from 3/8 to 1/2, however the wrench part(if that's what it's called), isn't 1/2". I'm assuming the whole thing should be 1/2" rather than using the adapter. Is this correct?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Yes, it would be best to buy a 24 in. long 1/2 in. drive breaker bar. The longer the breaker bar the more leverage you will have to remove a stubborn anode rod.
I don't know how long your 3/8 drive ratchet or breaker bar is, but I'll be it is no longer than 12 inches.

Peace
Dave
 
When I put my anode back in I completely wrap the thread with Teflon tape. This not only prevents leaks it prevent galling of threads and corrosion deposits on the threads. Give it a try. I use it on all threaded joints.
 

TedS

Well-known member
If you do use tape, start the tape wrap one or two threads back from the lead thread so that tape shreds do not get into your water system.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
I am not at my trailer today... but it would help her if someone would take photo of the 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" sockets, break over bar and sockets. Put a ruler or something familiar to demonstrate the physical size.

I will if I get to my trailer which is 15mi away. I am at the DD's for the week.

BC
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I use a 1 1/16" six-point socket with a 6" extension and a 12" long ratchet to remove the anode. And I wrap the threads with Teflon tape. If you need a breaker bar to get it out, you're probably over torquing it.

The only reason for the extension is to clear the gas piping that's in the way. The ratchet is a 1/2" drive.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
John, I am pretty sure that 360gal does not have all the rippling muscles and highly toned physique that most RVers have. :)
She could probably use some extra leverage help.

Peace
Dave
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Just my point. You don't need to tighten it until it screams for its momma. Using a 24" breaker bar on a ratchet handle multiplies the force being applied on the fastener. Easy way to damage the fitting if not careful.

And I haven't leaped over any tall buildings lately. Ripped my leotards on a radio antenna last time I did. Still smarts when I sit.
 

360gal

Member
My goodness, lots of responses, even from a superhero type, lol!

I so appreciate all your advice. It does look a bit corroded, so the tape sounds like a good idea. That I know how to do. Will be careful not to get in tank.

Ive enlisted the help of someone with bigger muscles, bigger tools, and lots of torque. There comes a time when being a woman means knowing when to wave the white flag....I can, and have in the past not given up so easily......my bulky muscles are feeling all of that 3/8 bar today.....dang it!
 

porthole

Retired
When I put my anode back in I completely wrap the thread with Teflon tape. This not only prevents leaks it prevent galling of threads and corrosion deposits on the threads. Give it a try. I use it on all threaded joints.

You are defeating the purpose of the anode by trying to insulate it so well.

I have never used tape or pipe dope and never had a leak.

I do wire wheel the anode nut if I am reusing it and I use a wire brush made for cleaning out the threads in the water heater, followed by a flush of the tank with one of these:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/water-heater-tank-rinser/49070
 

TedS

Well-known member
porthole, another reason to start the tape one or two threads back; preserves electrical contact for the anode.
 

knorth1

Member
I replaced mine a month ago with the anode that has drain valve built in and am really pleased with the ease of draining my 6 gallon hot water heater!! Interested in seeing if others approve on it as it is my first time to use.
I can't seem to get the anode removed from the hot water tank to drain it for winter storage.......any ideas?
 
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