2012 F350 Batteries

murry135 · Jan 7, 2013

Just notice on my 2012 F350 SD DRW that my batteries are showing a red indicator on each battery. Cold test with digital meter shows 12.56 volts. When idleing alternator shows a 13.8v reading at battery terminal. Should I have batteries checked by a dealer or what should be my next step to see if they are healthy or not?

Bob&Patty · Jan 7, 2013

You might want to have your dealer test them. I dont know how cold it ha been where you are....but cold weather does effect batteries. Has something to do with spacific gravity of battery acid changing in cold weather.

lwmcguir · Jan 7, 2013

murry135 said:
Just notice on my 2012 F350 SD DRW that my batteries are showing a red indicator on each battery. Cold test with digital meter shows 12.56 volts. When idleing alternator shows a 13.8v reading at battery terminal. Should I have batteries checked by a dealer or what should be my next step to see if they are healthy or not?

Will be curious to hear what you find out.

jnbhobe · Jan 7, 2013

Have them check it Jim its under warrenty. Have you been driving it or has it been sitting?? Your #'s aren't far off at 12.56 volts. and running should be between 13.5 and 14.2 volts.

brianharrison · Jan 7, 2013

My experience with the green/red indicators on the batteries is that they are not very accurate. They are a telltale indicator that is not very accurate in my opinion. It only measures one cell, which "should" be indicative of the other cells in most cases. You may have one weak cell. The digital volt better is much better to tell voltages.

The best test for battery health/condition is the load test that the dealer should be able to do. I recommend getting it looked at as well, while it is under warranty.

boatto5er · Jan 7, 2013

It probably has something to do with that copper colored dually...

murry135 · Jan 8, 2013

Ahhh thats it, I brought the wrong color so everything else that has a color indicator is going to be off. Wonder if JB is having the same issue and will Ford warranty the color issues?

murry135 · Jan 8, 2013

jnbhobe said:
Have them check it Jim its under warrenty. Have you been driving it or has it been sitting?? Your #'s aren't far off at 12.56 volts. and running should be between 13.5 and 14.2 volts.

John,

No, I have not been running it other than starting it and backing it out of the barn for some sunshine no road time and it has been cold here. Looks like I will check it at the dealer next week to put me at rest about it. Thanks for you input.

jnbhobe · Jan 8, 2013

Hey Jim; try running it for a day then check the voltage at the end of the day and in the morning, see what the numbers are. You could also have one bad battery but I doubt it, sounds more like just not being driven.

murry135 · Jan 9, 2013

jnbhobe said:
Hey Jim; try running it for a day then check the voltage at the end of the day and in the morning, see what the numbers are. You could also have one bad battery but I doubt it, sounds more like just not being driven.

John,
Started using the truck around town again just as you suggested also added some distilled water to each cell in both batteries will run all week and check again this weekend. Each new cold start is like nothing is wrong, turns over like new.

porthole · Jan 9, 2013

Jim, your batteries aren't sealed?

murry135 · Jan 9, 2013

Nope, I was able to open tabs with my fingers. Also some leakage was noticed when I was charging batteries before opening tops. In the past I opened a sealed battery so I know the difference, these were not sealed. THere is got to be a better way of changing the fuel filters without worrying about this each time. There eas way to much air in lines, like it was almost air locked. Had to bleed air off throught connections on engine mounted filter.

porthole · Jan 9, 2013

I have not had an issue yet with filter changes. But I follow the "6 key switches for 30 seconds each" routine. Think about it, you are replacing almost a quart of fuel between the two filters and what drains from the lines with the filters off..

What I don't like is the stupid filter drain know is on the inside of the actual drain, about guaranteeing you will get some fuel on yourself.

murry135 · Jan 9, 2013

Yeah, tell about the drain. Maybe the low batteries were not giving enough power to HPFP causing an improper refill of the system. I also read about the emergency fuel shut off and reset switch may have needed to be reset. Did you ever hear of a fuel cooler drain port? This maybe on the 6.4l and not the 6.7

porthole · Jan 9, 2013

The emergency switch is on the right side of the dash. Open the passenger door and you will see a small cover, the switch is behind that.
The switch is an "accident sensor", meaning in a severe enough accident, the sensor will disconnect the fuel pump circuit to eliminate fuel being pumped out all over the road.
It is an impact devise like the air bag sensors.

Shouldn't ever need it under normal circumstances.

murry135 said:
Did you ever hear of a fuel cooler drain port? This maybe on the 6.4l and not the 6.7

No, I have not.

murry135 · Jan 10, 2013

Jon and Duane,
Had the Beast at the dealer today and they replaced both of my batteries. Guess it pays to followup when something does not seem right. Thanks to the both of you for your input.

Jim

porthole · Jan 10, 2013

Well you said they were leaking, so a failure should have shown up on the test. Good for you.
OTH,next Wednesday I am going in for another set of rear outer wheels.

A year ago December my rear outer wheels were replaced for corrosion around the valve stems. Last week the dealer orderd me another pair after getting the OK from Ford.

murry135 · Jan 11, 2013

Wow that is nice of them. Since you pointed that corrosion out to me at the NJ Rallie everytime I wash my truck I check my tire stems for such.

2012 F350 Batteries

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murry135

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porthole

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porthole

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porthole

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murry135

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