Water Pump Pulsing 2013 Bighorn 3070RL

Hi all
We really like our new rig, but the water pump is most annoying. The water pulses as it comes out of the faucets in quick spurts, almost like one of those special shower heads. Of course, it gets all the pipes vibrating and making a pretty good racket. I have tried all the usual remedies for noisy pumps - flexible hoses in and out, insulation on pipes, securing it properly, cleaning the filter, tightening all fittings, etc.
All to no avail. There are no leaks on the pressure side and it does not cycle unless a faucets is on.

This unit has a pump I am not familiar with - Artis model PDS1RV25 It also has a 4 way valve system for directing water flow. The pump must draw the water through this valve from the tank that is at the back of the unit, through probably 30 feet of 1/2 inch plastic pipe. I wonder if that is just too much for the pump to handle.

Has anyone encountered a similar problem with this configuration, and if so did you find a workable solution?

Thanks for your help. Jim S
 

TedS

Well-known member
Just as a test. Set your valve to winterize and draw water out of a bucket to see if the water delivery pulses with this arrangement. If the flow does not pulse, then I would suspect the 30 feet of 1/2" tubing needs to be upsized to 5/8" or 3/4". If it does pulse, suspect the pump is not delivering with all four of its pumping chambers. One or more of internal pump check valves may not be operating correctly because of debris in it.
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
You may need an accumalator to put an air pocket in the system. This will stop the pulsing, your pump may be shutting off and on.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi Jim,

If you have a winterizing valve that let you pump antifreeze, make sure that it's in the correct position and not letting air into the system.

I've posted a copy of the manual in the manuals section of the forum. Here's a link. Your description might be what they call "cycling". Looking at the list, I'd look around the pump area (usually behind the basement wall on the UDC side) for hoses that are kinked. It sounds like there's a strainer on the intake side of the pump. Make sure it's not clogged. Finally, there's an adjustment on the pump.

Let us know what you find.

Water pump cycling may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Restricted water filter
- Partially open faucet
- Flow restrictors in faucets and shower heads
- Restrictive fittings (elbows, T-fitting or shut-off valves etc..)
- Small ID water lines: Water lines should be ½”(13mm) minimum for main lines.
- To minimize pump cycling keep water lines as straight as possible limiting the amount
of bends and fittings that can cause any type of water flow restriction.
NOTE: Should water pump cycle rapidly adjust the setting by turning the
allen screw (2mm) located under the green label dot; clockwise in 1/4 turn increments
(six 1/4 turns max) until pump stops cycling.
 
Thank you all for your suggestions and help. The 4 way valve I mentioned has one position for winterizing, one for pumping from the fresh water tank, one for filling the fresh water tank and one for city water direct to the system. I have used the winterizing setting to draw water through the system, but it still pulses. However, I am suspicious of possible air leaks in this valve and I am also suspicious of the very long intake. I have checked for kinks and other possible blockages or air leaks, especially on the intake side. The line And the tank is buried under the belly, so I can not easily check it all the way. The intake strainer is clear. I am pretty confident there is no blockage, but can not think of any way to completely prove there is no air leakage.


Subsequent to my original posting I have heard from both Heartland customer support and the supplier of the Artis pump. Heartland says it sounds like either air getting in or a problem with the pump and suggests taking it to a dealer. (It is still under warranty) The pump supplier says that the pump needs to be adjusted. So I guess I have done all I can and will have to let the pros have a go at it. As we are moving around a lot, I'm not sure when I can arrange that. Will post the results when I can.

Thanks again, Jim
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Jim, sounds like you have done all you can. What you discribed is a air leak in the suction side or a faulty pump. Call HL service and see if they can set up a repair where you will be at next. Heck, maybe HL will send you the pump and you can install it. It does not have to be a HL dealer to fix it.
 

simsfmly

Ohio Chapter Leaders-retired
I'm having a similar problem, but with a wrinkle. Pump (when 4 way is in "normal" position) pulses every 6-7 seconds and barely has any pressure at all. But, when I flip it to "tank", it runs full bore but doesn't deliver any pressure.

Then, suddenly, when 4 way is back to "normal", it will kick on and deliver proper pressure -- often when using the commode.

Haven't torn the panel back to get in and look, or used the tube to check it yet, nor do we use the pump often.

Thoughts anyone?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I'm having a similar problem, but with a wrinkle. Pump (when 4 way is in "normal" position) pulses every 6-7 seconds and barely has any pressure at all. But, when I flip it to "tank", it runs full bore but doesn't deliver any pressure.

Then, suddenly, when 4 way is back to "normal", it will kick on and deliver proper pressure -- often when using the commode.

Haven't torn the panel back to get in and look, or used the tube to check it yet, nor do we use the pump often.

Thoughts anyone?
In TANK mode the valve opens a path for pressurized water from the campground to flow through the city water inlet into the fresh water tank. In TANK mode there's no connection from the fresh tank to the pump. That's why the pump runs full bore but there's no pressure at your faucet.

If that's what you mean by wrinkle, it sounds like you may just have the same problem with your pump as the OP.
 

sengli

Well-known member
Wow my big horn had the exact same pulsing issue. So after reading this thread, I did three things. First I put a braided hose connecting the pump to the pex lines in the basement. Originally the pump outlet was connected directly to the pex lines, when it rattled so did the lines. Then I mounted the pump loosly on some pipe insulation, while relocating it for easier access. The I adjusted the allen screw in the top of the pump, per the instruction for the artisan pump. And now mine works perfectly, and is so quiet you can hardly even hear its running. No more surging, and clanging and banging like before. Better water flow and its smooth!
 

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sengli

Well-known member
The instructions with the pump say if it is equipped with a built in by-pass valve you arent supposed to need an accumulator.
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
That may be what they say. Mine isn't new but I use the tank most of the time and it works perfect.
 

Kart11x

Member
My water pump (shurflo 4048) has a by-pass valve that was not set right. When you turned a faucet or the shower on, the pump would rapidly cycle between turning on and off (because of low water demand from the faucet and high flow design in the pump). Long story short you need to adjust the by-pass valve down until the pump starts running smoothly. If you go too much the pump will not shut off when you close the faucet. If you turn the by-pass screw counter clockwise it will decrease the pressure required to open the by-pass.

I am not a professional on this topic, this is just what I have figured out on my own through painful researching.
 
We have a Road Warrior. The pump to the fresh water tank is running but won't pump water thru. We had trouble the first couple times and hubs tinkered with it and got it going. This time it's not pumping water thru faucets at all. any ideas?
 
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