Cyclone underbelly ?

Is everything enclosed and heated ? If its not capable of temps in the teens then Cyclone is not an option for us. Also what is artic package consist of ?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: Cyclone underbelly ?.

Hi NevadaNick,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. You'll find a lot of useful information here along with a bunch of friendly and helpful people.

The Canadian Arctic Package includes tank heating pads (110V) to keep the water tanks from freezing, heat tape (12V) on the fresh water line to the pump, and additional insulation. I've attached a graphic that explains.

My own experience is with a Landmark in subzero weather (F). We have tank heating pads and heat tape on the fresh water line, but don't have all the additional insulation provided by the Arctic Package. Nevertheless, we do fine. We do have the electric fireplace in the rear of the coach however, and we hang lights over the water pump and in the UDC. We also use a heated water hose. I've also added heat tape on the water lines to bathroom and kitchen to keep them working when temps drop below -15 F.

I'd expect Cyclone owners will chime in with any other relevant info.

Btw, duplicate posts are not permitted so I've deleted the other post.
 

Attachments

  • Canadian Arctic Package 2.pdf
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Re: Cyclone underbelly ?.

Thanks, i could not tell if the first one went through. I need everything to work in temps in the teens without plugging into power.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: Cyclone underbelly ?.

Thanks, i could not tell if the first one went through. I need everything to work in temps in the teens without plugging into power.

The tank heaters use 110V, so with no AC power, you have no tank heaters. Insulation and furnace heat into the underbelly will protect you to a point, but if it gets cold enough, the tanks will freeze. That's why tank heaters were invented. I suppose the next question is: how low can you go? Not sure there's a definitive answer.

I've heard that some people do what you're proposing without using their fresh/gray tanks. Instead they use bottled water and keep antifreeze in the black tank to at least keep it slushy.
 
Re: Cyclone underbelly ?.

Our current Travel trailer has worked down to -12f I dont need it to work at those temps but it does need to work in the teens without plugging in. From what i can gather infowise the Cyclone isnt going to work for us.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: Cyclone underbelly ?.

You might want to compare R values on the insulation, and furnace size, on comparably equipped and sized trailers. With the Canadian Arctic Package, you might actually be getting best-in-class protection.
 
Re: Cyclone underbelly ?.

But does it deal with the underbelly and whats in there ? I am not concerned with the living part. And believe me i am not trying to beat down the Cyclone, but when i buy one it has to work not just keep me comfortable. We really like the 3950 but until i can be reassured that it will work i will not buy one.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: Cyclone underbelly ?.

On Monday, why don't you call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032, identify yourself as a prospective customer and ask to speak with the Cyclone Brand Manager.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
NevadaDick,

I saw your post over on RV.net tonight and here also. If I understand correctly, you want to heat the tanks while boondocking without running your generator through the night.

To have heated tanks, you either need to pump heat to them (via furnace or other means) or use DC heating pads. I looked at Ultraheat's website and their DC tank heating pads for tanks up to 60 gallons draw 11.8 amps. If these were used on 2 or 3 tanks, that would sap a battery array pretty quickly.

Not trying to dissuade you in any way - just passing on some data to consider, no matter what manufacturer of RV you are looking at or end up with.

Jim
 
Thank You for the responses. I have the brand mgr's number and will call him. We are driving to Ca to look at them where they have some in stock. There has been one person on RVNet that says he has no problem, but the consensus here is that the underbelly is not actively heated by the furnace which is what we need. There are others that are. We will continue to look and research as we do like the Cyclone.
 

porthole

Retired
The underbelly is heated by the furnace. Nothing more then a hole cut in the duct work that allows heated air to spill into the that area above the coroplast.
The garage area has no coroplast under it and no heat spillage.
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
As porthole said, the underbelly does receive heat from the furnace, but the furnace running all night might run down the batteries quickly. If there is insufficient battery charge, the furnace will not run. For temps in the teens, the furnace will run have to run almost continuously. I think that would be true in any trailer. DC Heat pads would greatly aid in making sure you had a water system that would not freeze, but again, will drain the battery as JimB said.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AJJONES

Senior GM for Cyclone, Torque, Gateway & Sundance
Heartland is the only manufacturer that actually certified that all of our units are good to 0 degrees. Cyclone is a favorite for customers in extream conditions (in Canada is number one selling toy hauler nearly outsells #1,2,3 selling toy haulers combined). Many of our customers work and stay in very extream conditions, and Cyclone became #1 by word of mouth of holding up better than all other toy haulers. We duct heat into our underbelly to prevent the plumbing from freezing on all toy haulers we build. We also have an option for the Canadian artic package which adds radiant insulation in cap, roof, and floors. It also adds insulated and heated water lines, as well as electric tank heaters (also known as the yeti package in Bighorn and Landmark). Many customers that stay in consistently in these conditions will also add skirting to the bottom of the unit for additional protection.
 

PUG

Pug
I had an 09 3950 and felt it was a spring through fall trl. Mine was poorly sealed underneath, skimpy insulation and would not have gone through a cold Idaho sub freezing night without having problems even withthe furnace on high. It had single pane windows like most fair weather trls and had numerous open spots that let cold air in. The garage with extra beds and bath were nice and worked as a junk room, laundry and office/bedroom but the small living room drove us nuts. We ended up selling it and going with a Cameo FWS and pulling a small trl behind for toys. My 2 cents.
 

BarneyFife

Well-known member
Our Cyclone does very poor in very cold climates. We have to keep the heat running with usually two space heaters to supplement. It heats very unevenly and the walls and windows are so frigid, you can feel the cold coming down by your feet. Can't comment on the rep's points. But it does appear other popular choices such as Raptors and Voltages have some higher R-values in their standard packages and their cold climate packages.

Is that certification down to 0 degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius? I know some higher end toy haulers are rated down to -10 degrees Fahrenheit. But they are probably double the cost of a Cyclone.
 

Urban350

Well-known member
To answer the question about the water tanks freezing I have used mine to -23C and the water lines never froze the 4 days I was camping, but the furnace never shut of and I went through 60lbs of propane.
 

oscar

Well-known member
I don't have the Canada Package on my 4100. It's been sitting in the driveway being decorated and readied for our March trip. It is winterized. When we go in there we run the furnace, the fireplace and a space heater in the garage. After a few hours it gets into the 60's with temps outside in the high 20's Fahrenheit.

As I said, we are winterized. I have not taken a hard look inside the tech space between the coloroplast and the living room floor, but when I looked at the back side of the water heater during delivery I clearly saw a lot of daylight coming into the space from the front edge. Any heat ducted in there would be a waste of BTU's IMHO.

The air coming out of the duct in the garage is not warm enough to make a difference.

I plan on investigating further, and making some modifications to improve the efficiency of the heating system. We have no need for sub freezing protection of the water systems as we don't plan on camping in those temperatures. So, for the early and late season 30's and 40's degree nights that we encounter I would like to have ALL the btu's inside, and I plan on insulating the ducting to optimize that.

As is, I would not expose the liquid systems to sub freezing weather. I cannot comment on the Canada package as I have not seen it.
 
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