Tie down points in our toy hauler.

We are picking up our new 2013 Torque 291 today and leaving on our 1st trip to Bike Week in Daytona in 2 weeks. We are bring our Harley Roadking and our Can Am Outlander ATV with us. Any suggestions on what type of tie down system to add to our coach? There are not adequate tie down points for our needs. We do have a wheel chock for the bike. Thanks to any helpers!
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi dougmarciaride,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

I'm sure some of our other members will jump in soon with some ideas for you. Hope you do a very good and slow PDI when you go to pickup your Torque

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M
 

PUG

Pug
I purchased some D rings at the Ace Store. Added about six of them. Measured and drilled so bolts would hit frame underneath and cut rubber floor to set base of D ring into. Worked fine.
 

TXTiger

Well-known member
Use good strong ratchet style tie downs. Don't get cheep ones at Wal-Mart, they don't work. You need the wider heavy duty size. Believe me I have plenty of the cheep ones tangled up in a pile! Use of a wheel chock is good too. If you can secure the chock to the floor even better. I use a Condor chock I bought lat year at Sturgis. Wish I was going to Daytona.
 

dlemair

Member
Congrats on the new torque! I will concur with the previous posts, use a quality D-rings and quality rachet straps. Put your toys in and measure several times and drill once. Make sure and use a quality bolts, washers and nuts (Grade 5 or better) to secure the D-rings, do your best to make sure the positons of the d-rings will allow you to drill thru a flange of the cross beams. I have the 321 and haul 2 bikes, I use pingle wheel chocks and 4 D-rings for each bike. I have found that the ride is so smooth with my Torque 321, that I am able to use just 2 straps on the front of each bike if i want.
 

DW_Gray

Well-known member
Are you referring to the D rings mounted in the floor? If so, they should be rated for 1,200 pounds each. Each D ring is attached to the steel frame. I strap my 1,800+ pound smart fortwo down with four 3,000 pound straps in an X pattern. I've never had problem and the car has never moved.

BTW: B&W Trailer Hitches has come up with the Biker Bar. I'd like to get a custom made for my smart.
 
That Biker Bar looks pretty slick. Would work fine for my Roadking but I also have a larger ATV to strap down. They only put 4 D Rings in the garage. (all 4 corners) Would have been nice to throw a couple down the middle as well. I really don't feel like cutting up my floor but I guess I have no choice.
 
I have the Condor Chock myself, and plan on using it. I have really good heavy duty tie downs. But I need more anchor points to secure my ATV. Maybe we'll run into each other this year at Sturgis! :)
 

DW_Gray

Well-known member
Wow, only four. I have eight D-rings.

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mattpopp

Trouble Maker
I have 6 1,200lb d-rings in mine. But I only use two to tie down my 1500lb+ RZR. Mind you I only have about 3" from the front bumper hitting the sliding glass. Front bumper is hooked to the rear d-ring and rear bumper is tied to the front d-ring. I have many miles hauling my RZR in the TH. What I found is that the toy must be good and tie to avoid any movement what so ever. Slight movement gives the weight momentum and momentum breaks stuff.

I am considering adding two more d-rings to double what I am tying off to. The problem is the other four d-rings are blocked by my RZR tires.


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mattpopp

Trouble Maker
This is a good thread as y'all my have inspired me for a better way to tie down my RZR without the need of any ratchet straps. I'll have to draw it up and post it here to see what y'all think.


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mattpopp

Trouble Maker
I believe this should explain its self. But I think this would work as long as I can attach the counter sunk box to the frame below.


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361960075.459348.jpg


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porthole

Retired
I believe this should explain its self. But I think this would work as long as I can attach the counter sunk box to the frame below.


View attachment 23281

Looks like your on to something there.
The floor is 1". Where it looks like you will counter sink the box is between two frame rails. I like this idea and if it was something that I could use I would have no issue cutting the floor and just through bolting it into the floor. Maybe if I was concerned about the weight I would make it so the rear flange catches the under floor cross bar.

Although I think I would still add straps to the rear, either crossed or a single one in the center, just to assist with forward movement in an extreme braking scenario.
 

porthole

Retired
There are not adequate tie down points for our needs. We do have a wheel chock for the bike.


Couple of ideas for you Doug

Here is a link to my trailer, overkill maybe, but I have a lot of options now. My garage contents varies between nothing to any combination of two electric glides, 2 bicycles, golf cart.

Golf carts are wide enough to make the factory tie downs useless as they are too far inboard. And your Cam Am may have a similar footprint of a golf cart which ends up with the cart tires on the factory D-rings.

For the bike I started out with Bike Pro chocks. http://www.bike-pro.com/brochure/
I also use these in my motorcycle trailer and they work well. I have plates bolted to the floor and the chocks then bolt into the plates. Easy to remove the chock but it leaves the floor plate. The horrible freight and junk copy of these chocks are not anywhere near the same quality or strength!

I am now using a Condor in the Cyclone. I started with that bolted down to the included traielr plate. I have since found that properly strapped and the Condor blocked in the front, that I do not need to bolt the Condor down. I either use my fairly heavy Dometic portable fridge/freezer in front of it or a piece of 2x8 to keep it from moving forward. I like the Condor enough that I have a second one sitting behind me in the office.

4 straps, 2 in front going forward, 2 on the sides going out and slightly rearward. And I will usually add a 5th strap around the rear wheel going straight back.
You don't need a lot of tension on the 4 main straps, just snug them up and only slightly compress the suspension. I would suggest letting the bike's suspension do it's job.

As mentioned above - quality straps. M&R makes great motorcycle straps. 1" is more then sufficient. I have found over the years that that all nylon straps will stretch somewhat after the first hour, but once they are adjusted you should be good to go until time to unload.

http://mrproducts.com/tie-downs.aspx

1" webbing loops to use with your straps so that the metal hooks don't mar the bike.
Here is one supplier that has just about all the items needed for transport. They are on eBay too and the eBay prices are typically better then their motorcycle show prices.

http://www.mackieenterprises.com/Mackie Retail Color.pdf

I use the ratchet strap's hooks around my rear floorboard arms with no issues and 1" web loops around the front tun signal brackets. I would not suggest using the handlebars for any sort of tie down.

The ATB you see in the links below along the outside garage walls are for the most held down with large stainless wood screws. At the front, on both sides, the rear step opening and the fuel tank nozzle allow access to through bolt. At the very rear the storage bins in the floor, when removed, add access to the rear most part for through bolting.

//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=262148&viewfull=1#post262148

//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/11365-And-so-it-begins?p=123837&viewfull=1#post123837
 
Thanks for the in depth response Porthole. The track system you are using looks perfect for me. I have a Condor Chock with the trailer mount. I'm ordering a couple 24" tacks tomorrow. Which attachment do you recommend? And where did you get those? The brand name?
 

porthole

Retired
Thanks for the in depth response Porthole. The track system you are using looks perfect for me. I have a Condor Chock with the trailer mount. I'm ordering a couple 24" tacks tomorrow. Which attachment do you recommend? And where did you get those? The brand name?

Are you referring to the links for the track? Whomever sells the track usually has the links, and several different types. I prefer the version with 3 "ears" on each side.

Here is the ebay page for Mackie.
http://stores.ebay.com/Mackie-Enterprises-Inc?_rdc=1

Those links are listed on the catalog I posted above.

"E" track is another form of rail and fitting. Although that item is steel and doesn't look as nice as the aluminum load track.
 

Porkchop

Well-known member
Duane is wonderful with all the knowledge that he has! I use the Backley chock. I can't spell today. But we use it in the RV to tie down the bikes (we don't bolt it down) and take it out for when we are doing track days. It's somewhat expensive but you don't have to worry about the kick stand or sinking into asphalt on a hot day.

I really need to invest into the Etrack one day too!

PS I'm back! Sorry I've been gone for a while. You guys are always the best. When is the next and closest rally? I'll be hopefully taking the Cyclone out in the end of March for a track day!
 

mattpopp

Trouble Maker
Porthole,
On one of your links that you posted had a pretty cool idea. It was counter sunk boxes which the lid flipped up to become a wheel choke. That is a ver interesting idea that I like. The boxes still acted as storage units where you could keep you ratchet straps.

Some good ideas are getting thrown around here that really has me thinking on which way to move forward to secure the RZR with limited to no straps.


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