Newbie with travel trailer and a generator...

Speedygoss

Member
So I just purchased my first Travel Trailer (2013 Heartland Prowler 28P BHS. I purchased a 7000K running 9000K starting watts Generator.
The generator has 4 regular 110 20 amp. Receptacles. but it also has a 120 Volt AC, 30 Amp Twist-Lock Receptacle and a 120/240 Volt AC, 30 Amp Twist-Lock Receptacle.
My question is which receptacle do I plug the trailer into? Will the 120/240 harm the trailer?

Thanks,

Speedy.

 

brianharrison

Well-known member
I would think so - 240V is a no-no for RVs.

Without seeing the actual plugs, only use the 20amp and 120V 30 amp twist lock.

Brian
 

Speedygoss

Member
I would think so - 240V is a no-no for RVs.

Without seeing the actual plugs, only use the 20amp and 120V 30 amp twist lock.

Brian

Thanks Brian,
That's what I was afraid of... I'm going to have to put a piece of tape or something over that receptacle so my wife doesn't accidentally plug it into that one while I am out hunting or something. :/

I will take a picture of the plugs and post them tomorrow.
 

mbopp

Well-known member
Welcome to the forum.

A 7000 watt generator? Not to rain on your parade but you won't make many friends if you fire it up in a campground.
And even though the plug on your RV sorta-kinda looks like a 240V dryer plug, it's not. 240 volts is death to your trailer's electrical system.

You could buy / make a 120V 30A adapter cable from the twist lock to your trailer plug. But I'd be sure to check the generator output with a voltmeter to see that you're NOT putting 240V into the trailer.
 

Speedygoss

Member
Welcome to the forum.

A 7000 watt generator? Not to rain on your parade but you won't make many friends if you fire it up in a campground.
And even though the plug on your RV sorta-kinda looks like a 240V dryer plug, it's not. 240 volts is death to your trailer's electrical system.

You could buy / make a 120V 30A adapter cable from the twist lock to your trailer plug. But I'd be sure to check the generator output with a voltmeter to see that you're NOT putting 240V into the trailer.

Yes sir, it is a 7000 watt generator. It only rates 6db more than the same manufacture 3000 watt. Neighbors are a long way off as this will primarily be used for hunting in remote areas. You are correct. It will not plug into either of the 30 amp outlets on the generator without an adapter. I brought it home late last night and just assumed. Knowing this now leads me to my next question. Will the 20 amp outlets be enough to run the A/C, microwave etc?

Thanks,
Eric.
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
This is what the outlets probably look like (see second image):

2 standard outlets. Fully protected 110V, 20amp power outlets. (use these OK)
1 twist-lock outlet. 240V 30amp outlet, NEMA L14-30R (do NOT use this one)
1 twist-lock outlet. 120V 30amp outlet, NEMA L5-30R (use this one)

I am not knowledgeable enough to use the 4 prong twist lock (NEMA L14-30R). You need to confirm the adapter and generator is providing you with correct 120V (in-phase) on both hots, with proper neutral and ground. I have attached a image showing how a Nema L14-30R is usually configured. I see camping world has the adapters for 4 prong to 30 amp.

I would personally would use the 3 prong twist lock (Nema L5-30R) as these adapters are readily available at camping world etc (twist lock male to 30 amp female).


Brian
 

Attachments

  • Pro2-outlets.jpg
    Pro2-outlets.jpg
    17.8 KB · Views: 37
  • nema l1430r twist_lock.gif
    nema l1430r twist_lock.gif
    6.6 KB · Views: 34
Last edited:

Speedygoss

Member
This is what the outlets probably look like: 2 standard outlets. Fully protected 110V, 20amp power outlets. (use these OK)
1 twist-lock outlet. 240V 30amp outlet, NEMA L14-30R (do NOT use this one)

1 twist-lock outlet. 120V 30amp outlet, NEMA L5-30R (use this one)

I assume they make an adapter to go from my 3prong cord to the 4 prong 120v 30amp outlet?
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
If you haven't used it, see if you can return it and get the Champion similar wattage model. It has both a 50amp and 30amp RV receptacle already on it.
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
I assume they make an adapter to go from my 3prong cord to the 4 prong 120v 30amp outlet?

Yes - see my edited post above.

I am not familar with LARGE portable generators like yours, but I have an uneasy feeling about larger portable generators (above 5kW?) that have a different config on neutral bonding requirements etc. I beleive it is a OSHA requirement for construction safety? You may want to investigate that a bit more. There are lots of discussions on the web, and RV forums about neutral bonding, etc. It might be a red herring on my part, but I do not know......

Sorry I cannot be of more help here.
Brian

Edit: I did a little research, but you must confirm this information with a qualified electrician in your area.

Here is the OSHA fact sheet on grounding and neutral bonding.
Here are a two interpretation letters from OSHA Letter one, Letter two.

In my review - the 4 prong twist lock with two hots has the neutral bonded to the generator frame - from the interpretation on letter one

The intent of 1926.404(f)(3)(iii) becomes very clear when one considers that the term "neutral" is used in its technical sense. A 120/240 volt system has a neutral and therefore must be bonded to the generator frame. A 2-wire 120 volt system has no neutral and therefore bonding is optional. Recall that neither side of a 2-wire derived system is a neutral and when one grounds either side, it becomes a grounded terminal or conductor, but it is not a neutral.

I would be highly uncomfortable with the possibility of loosing the neutral and sending 240V to the trailer. You may be more comfortable. Good luck.

In my thoughts, if you are looking only at powering the RV, considering one AC and maybe a microwave at the same time, a 3000W with no 120/240 4 prong twist lock may be adequate.

Brian
 

Invizatu

Senior Road Warriors
You can get that adapter at walmart for under $10. If you use that in the 120v 30 amp socket, you can run a 15k btu a/c (draws about 14 amps) and everything else in your trailer (within reason) at the same time. It would be like plugging into a 30 amp pedestal at a campground. But be forewarned, that is not a recommended source of power for computers, t.V.s and the like. But if you can stand the noise you can stay cool and have lights and stuff. I would recommend getting an inverter style generator, but it's always easy to spend other people's money. lol
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
Yes - the 3-prong twist lock and 30 amp female adapter you linked is the correct adapter - you should not have to worry about the wife plugging in the 3 prong twist lock into the 4 prong recepticle.

Brian
 

Speedygoss

Member
Yes - see my edited post above.

I am not familar with LARGE portable generators like yours, but I have an uneasy feeling about larger portable generators (above 5kW?) that have a different config on neutral bonding requirements etc. I beleive it is a OSHA requirement for construction safety? You may want to investigate that a bit more. There are lots of discussions on the web, and RV forums about neutral bonding, etc. It might be a red herring on my part, but I do not know......

Sorry I cannot be of more help here.
Brian

Edit: I did a little research, but you must confirm this information with a qualified electrician in your area.

Here is the OSHA fact sheet on grounding and neutral bonding.
Here are a two interpretation letters from OSHA Letter one, Letter two.

In my review - the 4 prong twist lock with two hots has the neutral bonded to the generator frame - from the interpretation on letter one

The intent of 1926.404(f)(3)(iii) becomes very clear when one considers that the term "neutral" is used in its technical sense. A 120/240 volt system has a neutral and therefore must be bonded to the generator frame. A 2-wire 120 volt system has no neutral and therefore bonding is optional. Recall that neither side of a 2-wire derived system is a neutral and when one grounds either side, it becomes a grounded terminal or conductor, but it is not a neutral.

I would be highly uncomfortable with the possibility of loosing the neutral and sending 240V to the trailer. You may be more comfortable. Good luck.

In my thoughts, if you are looking only at powering the RV, considering one AC and maybe a microwave at the same time, a 3000W with no 120/240 4 prong twist lock may be adequate.

Brian

Wow, Thank you for all the time and research on this Brian. I took the generator down to my local Camping world (Who is also a service center and a Champion Power tools dealer.) I tooled around a bit and picked the tech. believed to be the most knowledgeable. He said to get the adapter and on my generator the 120V 30Amp is the Receptacle to use.
 
Top