Surge protector monitor

4ever

Well-known member
I am in the process of ordering a new Landmark and I am looking at the package that offers the built in surge protector. According to the dealer the surge protector is mounted in the underbelly somwhere but it has no remote monitor. This certainly seems very strange to me. I have always seen surge protectors with a built in monitor or with a remote monitor. I would sure want to know the reason I don't have power if the surge protector kicks in and shuts everything down. Am I missing something here? Does anybody have the built in surge protector from the factory? What are your experences?

Thanks,

Ted
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
Wow - upgrading from your current Landmark in your signature pic?

Jim B noted the new surge protector is built into the transfer switch --> If you got the Gen Prep and/or the Full-timers package, the surge protection is built into the transfer switch. The transfer switch is likely a TRC SurgeGuard model, [URL="http://www.trci.net/products/surge-guard/transfer-switches/50a-hardwires"]similar to this[/URL].

From post here --> Clicky Link

Not sure if it is still the same model being used by HL today.


If you are looking for a full EMS, with remote display I would still default to the Progressive Industries 50A Hard Wired Model With Remote display.

Brian
 

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
Are you confusing a surge protector with an electrical management system?

The surge protector models do not include voltage protection. The surge protectors strictly provide protection during an actual power surge. However, Progressive Industries surge protection units have additional features which include a built-in surge status indicator that notes the condition of the surge protector, plus a dual line polarity tester that checks the status of the source prior to use. From http://www.progressiveindustries.net/faqs.htm

Features that surge protectors usually don't protect from is over/Under voltage protection, AC power frequency variations. or 240V power mis-applied, Surge protectors usually have a clamping voltage of around 330Volts or more before surge protection kicks in.
 

4ever

Well-known member
Yeah we going to upgrade. Really like all the new featuers and we contiue to spend more and more time in this rig. May go full timming for awhile if we can sell the stick house. Might as well we are close to full timming now.

Anyway, I have a progresive unit in my cuurent rig and it is mounted where I can see the monitor on the unit. Can't mount the same way on the new rig. I was kind of wishing that the surge protector they were offering was like that. Guess not.

Thanks,

Ted
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Is your Progressive unit hardwired or portable? The hardwired units have a remote monitor that plugs into the suppressor. The cable for it is long enough to mount the display almost anywhere within a few feet of the suppressor. To guess, my display is about 7 feet from the unit and 4 feet above it. Need it longer, you can get the connectors, wire, and connector tool at Lowes or Home Depot for under $30.
 

4ever

Well-known member
My current unit is hardwired and did not come with the remote display. It has the display built into the unit. On our current rig it is mounted where I can read the display. Will not be able to mount it in the same area in the new rig.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Wild guess, but does it has a receptacle on the side that looks like a telephone jack? If it does, then you can get a remote display for it.
 

donr827

Well-known member
Just read on another site where the built in Progressive EMS malfunctioned and the EMS did not have a bypass switch. a older unit I guess. The owner had to wait two days without any power to receive a replacement board to fix the unit. Just something to keep in mind.
Don
 

4ever

Well-known member
It does not have a receptacle on the unit.

Have also been looking a Progressive remote or portable unit that I could plug in at the power tower. Would not have to have it mounted and would provide eazy access. Has anybody used these and what are your oppinon of them?

Thanks
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
I use the bypass when I use my Honda 3K because it will show an open ground, one of the best investments I've made. I didn't cut the incoming cable just hooked it to the inlet of the EMS and then added a 5ft piece of #6-4 SJ or SO cable. Its very flexible and easy to work with.
 

dave10a

Well-known member
this is the one Heartland installed that was part of my "full timers package" http://www.trci.net/media/75269/505-00038b_spec sheet for 40250-rvc.pdf. It provide minimal protection and does have the ability to have an optional monitor. If I had to do it over again I would have not ordered the package from Heartland would have purchased the equipment separately and installed it my self. Heartland only provides minimal stuff and does not provide the customer any choices or model selections. Who ever does the product selections for Heartland is more interested in providing minimal equipment-- most likely to make the most profit :)
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
this is the one Heartland installed that was part of my "full timers package" http://www.trci.net/media/75269/505-00038b_spec sheet for 40250-rvc.pdf. It provide minimal protection and does have the ability to have an optional monitor.

Thank you Dave for posting the exact model installed with the HL Fulltimers Package in your coach.

I did a quick comparison, and the TRC 40250-RVC has all the features similar to the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C (including power management and surge), except the ability to bypass the EMS capability when running from an external generator with floating neutral. And the TRC has an automatic transfer switch built in.

Regarding your HL minimal equipment comment - the TRC 40250-RVC including transfer switch is $650+ online; the PI EMS-HW50C can be had for ~$350 + Progressive Dynamics PD52 transfer switch ($150) is about $500. . I'd say HL bought the more expensive solution. The combination of EMS and transfer switch is an easier install so that may be the reason HL chose this equipment (installed cost is less, considering labor).

You can purchase the external monitor (TRC 40272) and cord (TRC 40278) - however I was not able to find a source/price online (new product, I guess).
 

dave10a

Well-known member
Thank you Dave for posting the exact model installed with the HL Fulltimers Package in your coach.

I did a quick comparison, and the TRC 40250-RVC has all the features similar to the Progressive Industries EMS-HW50C (including power management and surge), except the ability to bypass the EMS capability when running from an external generator with floating neutral. And the TRC has an automatic transfer switch built in.

Regarding your HL minimal equipment comment - the TRC 40250-RVC including transfer switch is $650+ online; the PI EMS-HW50C can be had for ~$350 + Progressive Dynamics PD52 transfer switch ($150) is about $500. . I'd say HL bought the more expensive solution. The combination of EMS and transfer switch is an easier install so that may be the reason HL chose this equipment (installed cost is less, considering labor).

You can purchase the external monitor (TRC 40272) and cord (TRC 40278) - however I was not able to find a source/price online (new product, I guess).
I made a mistake, mine has the 41260 not the 40250. Like I said it is minimal protection..... Here is the comparison chart. http://www.trci.net/products/surge-guard/comparison-charts
 

brianharrison

Well-known member
I made a mistake, mine has the 41260 not the 40250. Like I said it is minimal protection..... Here is the comparison chart. http://www.trci.net/products/surge-guard/comparison-charts

Got it - thanks for correcting the model number in your unit - I will not delete my previous post - but it is interesting TRC have come out with a HardWired unit "comparable" to the Progressive Industries EWS-HW50C - I do know when this model (TRC 40250-RVC) became available.

Brian
 

porthole

Retired
Just read on another site where the built in Progressive EMS malfunctioned and the EMS did not have a bypass switch. a older unit I guess. The owner had to wait two days without any power to receive a replacement board to fix the unit. Just something to keep in mind.

I have a Progressive EMS 50. I had a problem where the circuit board failed.
That was because I hooked the trailer up to an inverter. My manual said nothing about inverters. The new manuals say not to use one.

The board is designed to fail to protect the trailer.
If the board fails, there is no power through the EMS, so the remote bypass switch will not even light.

You have to manually bypass the unit.

If the board fails, it is covered under Progressives lifetime warranty, pretty good IMO.
Progressive will ask for a credit card in case you decide not to return the failed part. You can buy a spare if you so desire for about $80

If the board fails and you have to wait for parts there is a work around.
  • UNPLUG THE TRAILER
  • Remove the EMS cover
  • Remove the cover over the center of the unit
  • put some type of spacer over the relay plunger and reinstall the cap.
  • I used a short piece of 10 gauge wire insulation

See here
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...ort-service-and-a-tip?highlight=circuit+board

You should keep this potential issue in mind when installing your EMS. Mine "was" diffulcut to get at.
Not anymore though.
 

porthole

Retired
None of them have a bypass switch that I know of.

The Progressive has an optional 1 or 2 remote display with a bypass switch that will bypass the unit for external issues.


I use the bypass when I use my Honda 3K because it will show an open ground, one of the best investments I've made. I didn't cut the incoming cable just hooked it to the inlet of the EMS and then added a 5ft piece of #6-4 SJ or SO cable. Its very flexible and easy to work with.

Jon,

Simple fix for this and still using the EMS to protect the trailer.

Take a male 15 amp replacement plug, jump the neutral and ground together and plug it into the unused 15 amp receptacle on the Honda.

I found this out while trying to run my house hot water heater during Sandy. It would light off but not keep running (forced draft).
Found the open ground on Google, jumped it and we had hot water at least.

Tried it on the Cyclone and it works there too.
 

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jnbhobe

Well-known member
Thanks Duane, I'll have to make up one of them. I have just been bypassing it for a couple of years.
 
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