Water heater--check valve removal BROKE

aatauses · May 8, 2013

Hi everyone,
I need some help/advice. Last fall when winterizing I realized the check valve on the hot side of the water heater would need replacing. So, today I tried to take out the check valve--they must have put it in with glue/solvent because being plastic it snapped off. Now to get it out?? I tried with a knife to cut out a small section, but that only got me very small pieces. I tried an easy out, but that bottomed out and only spun around. Some suggested retapping, but looking inside it looks like before it enters the actual heater there is some type of rim?? So looking for suggestions---also wondering if it would be easier to take out the heater rather than working in confined space??
Also, as a side note---I climbed in on the heater side (BH3670), and while working the wind slammed the door shut---interesting---you cannot open the door from the inside!!!---needed to call the mrs. to come get me!!!!
al
currently in Kenai, AK

GOTTOYS · May 8, 2013

Hacksaw blade only or if that"s too big a sabre saw or sawzall blade. Just go in and saw through it. You may have to make two cuts and take it out in two pieces. Work slowly and carefully so you don't damage threads. It won't take much to get it out...Don

mikeandconnie · May 8, 2013

That's good to know! I would hate that to happen to me. Most of the time when I work on my rig my wife is at work and I don't keep a phone on me. Here a link to a old post about the fitting.http//heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...ng/page2?highlight=water+heater+fitting+broke

danemayer · May 9, 2013

I haven't tried it myself, but I've wondered if a Dremel tool with a small wire brush might do the job.

kakampers · May 9, 2013

Ours did the same thing...the plastic gets brittle from heating up...we used a tap to remove ours. Worked on it for hours....finally used the tap, it was out in less than two minutes. We bought a brass check valve and the tech who did the PDI on the Landmark installed it....not going through that again!!

cookie · May 9, 2013

This information is a bit late for Aatauses, but for those reading this thread and thinking about changing the check valve, this may help.
When I did mine a few weeks ago, before attempting to remove the valve, I warmed it up with a hair drier. The valve spun right out.
I may have just gotten lucky, but it's worth a shot.
I like the saw blade idea for removing the broken stub.

Peace
Dave

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

Rickhansen · May 9, 2013

I second GOTTOYS method. I did this with ours a couple years ago.

DougAndJudy · May 9, 2013

I just went through this a couple of days ago, too. I used a cheap soldering iron to melt the plastic in a few places. The plastic didn't flow out, but became brittle enough to chip out with a screwdriver. After getting all the chunks out, I cleaned the threads with a thread tap. Going to replace the spare plastic valve I used with a brass one this morning.

Gaffer · May 9, 2013

Mine was a ***** to remove. This is what worked for me //heartlandowners.org/showthread.ph...ter-on-3055-rl?p=277844&highlight=#post277844 There is a lip but a bottom tap will work. You will need to flush the shavings and maybe part of the check valve out of the water heater when done.

Mr.D · May 9, 2013

OH, what fun. I removed my heater so I could work on it. Just takes time to work out the broken plastic. For those that have not had a problem yet..........it's coming. Number 1...they install plastic (always replace with brass): Number 2...you need to support the water hoses attached. They just let them "hang" out the back and with the weight of the water in the lines, bouncing up and down the road......just matter of time something breaks...........Good Luck

wdk450 · May 9, 2013

Regarding the access door blowing shut, that is a constant nuisance while connecting/disconnecting shore lines to the UDC while setting up and departing. I installed one of the door holder devices like what is supplied for your main entrance door on the access door. Here's a link to a picture:
http://tweetys.com/3-12t-styledoorholdercw.aspx

danemayer · May 9, 2013

I'd recommend proactively replacing the plastic check valve before your trailer gets too old. You'll avoid the leak and the old valve will come out in one piece. Instructions are in our Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide.

wdk450 · May 9, 2013

I always thought that this check valve was there for winterizing reasons. I came across this answer from Gary Bunzer about these:
"Typically there are three check valves in the fresh water system; one at the city water inlet (to prevent pump pressure from forcing water out the entry), one at the outlet of the water pump (to prevent city pressure from backing through the pump and filling the water tank and one at the cold inlet to the water heater. It’s there to prevent hot water from migrating back into the cold water system. If a branch cold line, say to the toilet, is plumbed (tee’d) into the cold line too close to the back of the water heater, it could siphon hot water out of the tank and into the toilet when it is flushed. It’s happened before! As long as you have no branch cold lines tee’s near the inlet to the water heater, you shouldn’t experience that problem. Having a check valve at the cold inlet to the heater also prevents mineral deposits and residue from backing into the cold system from inside the water heater. As long as you flush the water heater out once or twice a year, this too, shouldn’t be a problem.

brianharrison · May 9, 2013

wdk450 said:
"Typically there are three check valves in the fresh water system; one at the city water inlet (to prevent pump pressure from forcing water out the entry), one at the outlet of the water pump (to prevent city pressure from backing through the pump and filling the water tank and one at the cold inlet to the water heater.

The water pump in my unit has the check valve built into the pump - no external check valve in the piping. FYI.

Brian

aatauses · May 9, 2013

Thanks for the advice so far---question for those who used a tap to get the check valve out---can you check the size---Is it 1/2" --14 NPT?
thanks
al

kakampers · May 10, 2013

DH says yes, that's the size tap he used. Wished we'd have used it first..would have saved us 8 hours of work...

rick_debbie_gallant · May 10, 2013

aatauses said:
Thanks for the advice so far---question for those who used a tap to get the check valve out---can you check the size---Is it 1/2" --14 NPT?
thanks
al

I used a dremel tool and was careful not to hit the threads with it. worked like a charm...

boatdoc · May 10, 2013

I should've gone to Vegas the day I changed mine out, it backed right out no problem. Threw it in the spares box just for the heck of it.

aatauses · May 10, 2013

Ok, still working on this issue and not having the best of luck---another question for those who chose the tap route. I chatted with Suburban this morning and they had some caution about pushing the tap too deep---apparently there is some type of "bushing or flow tube" at the back of threads (plastic) and it is actually smaller so you do not want to put a tap into it. She also mentioned that if the tap hits against it, you probably did not get all the plastic out?? Was this a concern for anyone?
For those who used the dremel did you use a grinder bit or a wire brush?
thanks,
Still working on it
al

mobilcastle · May 11, 2013

I like the hair dryer or heat gun idea. Are you guys talking about the plastic fitting at the bottom of the tank in the back side of the tank (I think it is at the bottom)-one of mine is plastic and the other one is metal? I noticed it when I installed my electrical Progressive surge protector. Thanks for the education, Steve

Water heater--check valve removal BROKE

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