Re-Seal on your units

Although I am constantly looking my rig over and keeping up on it I was quite suprised when I took my unit to the factory for some work. I was told that all old caulk (max of one year old) should be removed and re-caulked as the old caulk deteriorates (sp) and new should be put on. I was also informed that this was in our owners manuel stating this. So it's back to the ownders manuel once again to get back on the right track. I am having them do it while being worked on now as I am the worlds worst caulker there is. It looks so simple, but I make a bigger mess than doing any good!! lol

I also better add that the book also says to inspect every 3 months!

Just a reminder to everyone so you don't end up doing the expensive cost of replacing a sidewall that has gotten wet and warped badly.

Dave

Dave,
that's on my todo list every year. If you need help on caulking for the future, try a YouTube search, there are plenty of ideas. Last year I tried ETERNABOND tape for the first time, on the front and rear seals that are the width of the roof. The tape is expensive, but it is holding up real well. The self leveling caulking is real easy to use, just put it on the roof, and don't mess with it. You must however use caulking for a rubber roof, that is important.

I can do the flat surfaces fine. It's around them windows doors etc. I will look at the you tube and thanks for the heads up.

Dave

Using Painters tape on both sides of the crack to be sealed helps keep the mess down. A very small tip opening helps control the amount of caulk being applied. Yes it is a bit slower to apply but sure beats having a big mess to clean up.

Silverado23 said:

Using Painters tape on both sides of the crack to be sealed helps keep the mess down. A very small tip opening helps control the amount of caulk being applied. Yes it is a bit slower to apply but sure beats having a big mess to clean up.

Click to expand...

Easiest way to caulk with a gun and tube is to cut the tip at a 45º angle, just enough to allow caulking come out. From there cut again a little larger with less angle and so on until you have the amount you want to come out at an angle, you can follow any line without breaking the bead that way. Make sure you can move in a smooth and slow line along any caulked area which gets the best bead down and far less messy.
The only concern I would have about using tape is when peeling it off it could leave a gap though I haven't tried using such a method before.
The correct caulk (3 types) and rubber roof bond tape is in the kit at all times, it doesn't matter how often I check the roof (once a month) it can become brittle and gap in one day...up here it rains 30 of 31 days of the month so that one day is important to catch