De-Winterizing Help / Instructions

johnmichael

Member
Just bought a gently used 2011 183 MPG, and the seller was kind enough to do a complete walk through on all systems so that we could video it for future reference. Of course, that video has disappeared into a black hole of technology somehow. The MPG is currently winterized, this is also my first RV, and I cannot remember how to begin de-winterizing it.

Can anyone help put me on track?

Thanks
 

johnmichael

Member
MPG De-Winterizing Help

I posted this earlier and it was exiled (moved) to somewhere non-MPG specific - so moderators PLEASE do not move this, where ever you moved it to, it is being ignored!

Have some mercy here; this is my first RV and I had hoped to try it out this weekend, but I cannot even use it because I do not know how to de-winterize it!

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Just bought a gently used 2011 183 MPG, and the seller was kind enough to do a complete walk through on all systems so that we could video it for future reference. Of course, that video has disappeared into a black hole of technology somehow. The MPG is currently winterized, this is also my first RV, and I cannot remember how to begin de-winterizing it.

Help anyone?

 

danemayer

Well-known member
johnmichael,

Dewinterizing usually involves hooking up to city water and opening each faucet in turn to flush out the RV antifreeze. You'll also have to locate the winterizing valves which are often located near the water heater. While I don't know the specifics for the MPG, there are typically two sets of controls: one valve allows the water pump to draw antifreeze through a short piece of hose. When dewinterizing, that valve must be closed or the pump will suck in air instead of drawing water from the fresh tank (when you try to use the water pump). The second set of valves is a Hot Water Heater Bypass. While the bypass is active, city water or pumped water will no go through the water heater. You have to reset the bypass valves to normal operation position in order to fill the Hot Water Heater tank. Note that if you turn on the electric heater in the Water Heater before filling the tank, you'll burn out the element.

Hopefully another MPG owner will chime in with help on where the valves are located, or perhaps this will jog your memory from the seller's walk through.
 

bigmaho

Active Member
It's pretty easy. First you want to flush out the anti-freeze (assuming it was winterized with anti-freeze. you can also winterize by just blowing out all the water with air eliminating the need for anti freeze). Either fill up the water tank or attach city water and run all the fixtures until the water runs clear and not pink. Most likely the water heater was bypassed so it should be empty (if it wasn't bypassed you'd need an additional 6 gallons of expensive anti freeze). If you look at the water heater from above you will see 3 valves. Off the top of my head, I think in bypass mode, 2 are closed and the third is open. Just reverse the positions. Close the open ones and open the closed ones.

Lastly, if you want to disinfect the system, add some bleach to the water (there is a formula but I can't remember. it should be easy to find. something like 1 cup per 5 gallons), run it through the system and let it sit for an hour or two. Then drain and refill the system to flush out the bleach.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
johnmichael,

If you follow bigmaho's directions, maybe you could post some pictures showing the valves and their location in your MPG. That'll help the next guy who has the same question.
 

ILH

Well-known member
I can't answer specifics regarding MPGs, but you'll find a load of good videos on Youtube. The concepts are easy once you see how its done. Funny enough, I forgot to undo the bypass on my water heater this year. It was about bedtime on our first night at the campground and I realized I hadn't done it yet. Picture me in the dark, flashlight between my teeth in the basement of my 5er looking for the valves. Thank goodness its only once-a-year.
 

bigmaho

Active Member
johnmichael,

If you follow bigmaho's directions, maybe you could post some pictures showing the valves and their location in your MPG. That'll help the next guy who has the same question.

OK, I'm attaching a photo looking down into the water heater (in the 181 it's under the mattress on the 'drivers' side). This shows the water heater in bypass mode (winterized mode). I usually leave it like this for short trips. The 2 valves on the upper and lower pex tubes are closed and the one on the center (vertical) tube is open. To enable the hot water heater and fill it's tank, reverse the settings. Open the upper and lower and close the center.
 

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kb0zke

Well-known member
Since each floorplan of the mpg has the plumbing arranged differently, general information doesn't help much. Perhaps someone who owns (or has owned) a 183 could help out the OP. The general instructions are as true for our Foretravel as they were for our 181. The specifics, though, differ greatly. johnmichael, you may need to do some digging on your own if no 183 owners step up here. Sanitizing the system is strongly recommended. I think the recipe is 1/4 cup of bleach added to a gallon of water, and the tank filled to somewhere around 1/8 capacity. Don't depend on what I just wrote from memory, though. Look it up yourself. We look it up each time we need to dewinterize.

Basically, your drain valves (hot and cold) should all be closed. Open faucets, hook up the city water, and watch until clear (not pink) water comes out. Then make sure that your water tank drain valve is closed and put the sanitizing solution into the fresh water tank. Drive around for a while (rough roads are good for this), and then drain the fresh water tank. Close the drain valve and fill with fresh water. Before you turn on the hot water heater be SURE that there is water in the tank.
 

johnmichael

Member
Thanks so far, please be patient I am REALLY green at this...(as in never owned an rv)

Questions:

So 1st I hook up city water, open the faucets and flush the toilet till water runs clear....do I keep the hot water heater on bypass during this, or change the valves and fill the tank after?

Does hooking up to city water automatically fill the fresh water tank?

When disinfecting the system with a bleach solution, is that added into where the city water hose is connected?

There are two drain hoses underneath, in addition to grey and black water drains - do those drain the fresh water and hot water tanks?

Man, it's tough being so ignorant again at 57!

thanks for the indulgence
Jm
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Johnmichael,

So 1st I hook up city water, open the faucets and flush the toilet till water runs clear... one at a time open each faucet, including the outside shower, and the toilet, and run until clear.

.do I keep the hot water heater on bypass during this, or change the valves and fill the tank after? Probably doesn't matter, but to make sure you don't inadvertantly get any antifreeze in the water heater, I'd wait until after.

Does hooking up to city water automatically fill the fresh water tank? No. There'll be a separate location for filling the fresh tank. It's probably what's known as a "gravity fill" which means it's not a screw-on hose connection. The hose from the faucet is loosely inserted into the opening and you fill slowly. Avoid overfilling and never do anything that could pressurize the fresh tank.

When disinfecting the system with a bleach solution, is that added into where the city water hose is connected? Here's what Heartland says:
To assure complete sanitation of your potable water system, the following procedures are recommended for a new system. For one that has not been used for a period of time and for one which may have become contaminated:
1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one (1) gallon of water and one-quarter (1/4) cup of household bleach (5% sodium hypochlorite solution). With tank empty, pour one (1) gallon of solution into the tank for each fifteen (15) gallons of tank capacity.
NOTE: As an option, several commercial solutions are available and should be used as directed on the package.
2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Operate all faucets to release trapped air. Pressuring entire system with pump, if available, and turn off pump.
3. Allow to stand for three (3) hours.
4. Drain and flush with fresh potable water.
5. To remove excessive chlorine taste or odor which may remain, prepare a solution of one (1) quart vinegar to five (5) gallons water and pour into tank. Allow solution to agitate in tank by vehicle motion (several days, if possible).
6. Drain tank and flush with fresh potable water.
The tank referred to is the Fresh Water Tank and "drain" would be to drain it through the drain hose.

There are two drain hoses underneath, in addition to grey and black water drains - do those drain the fresh water and hot water tanks? There'll be a 1/2" hose with a small valve to drain the fresh tank. If there's another similar hose with valve, it may be a low-point drain to empty the pex lines when winterizing. The Hot Water Heater Tank is usually drained by removing the anode rod (see our Water Heater Usage Guide).

You may want to download an owners manual from the Heartland website.
 

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders
It maybe obvious but you want to make sure you run water from each of the hot and cold water faucets to clear all of the antifreeze.
 

billyjoeraybob

South Carolina Chapter Leaders-Retired
johnmichael,

The second set of valves is a Hot Water Heater Bypass. While the bypass is active, city water or pumped water will no go through the water heater. You have to reset the bypass valves to normal operation position in order to fill the Hot Water Heater tank. Note that if you turn on the electric heater in the Water Heater before filling the tank, you'll burn out the element.

Johnmichael,

This step can not be stressed enough. I recently sold my SOB travel trailer to a nice couple. I spent several hours walking through and showing them everything. They also made videos. Sad thing is they watched all of them but the one about how important it was to reset the water heater bypass valves after flushing the system. So the water heater was empty when they turned it on the first time. The called me to ask why they could not get the water to heat up. Fortunately this was a $20 mistake that I bet they won't make again. Enjoy your new rig, watch a lot of youtube vids, and search and ask questions here. Before long you will be the one giving the answers!
 

johnmichael

Member
This is the winterizing positions of the water heater valves, I left them as is, hooked up to city water, ran all the taps and toilet till clear. The water heater is full (I opened the pressure valve enough to bring water through it). Can anyone tell me what the "in use"-postion of the valves should be?

Photo Jun 01, 5 28 05 PM.jpg
 

bigmaho

Active Member
This is the 'in use' setting. The upper and lower valves are on and the center bypass is off. In bypass mode the positions are reversed. The upper and lower are closed while the center valve is on.
 

johnmichael

Member
Okay - that solves the mystery! The seller had told me that they left everything in the winterizing position, and I could not figure out why top and bottom valves would both be open...

Thanks everyone!
 
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