Puzzling Water Heater Electrical Problem

Gang:
A couple of weeks ago I went to use my water heater, flipped on the red power switch, and immediately the breaker tripped. I tried it again, same result. After getting home, I tried to troubleshoot the problem, could not find any definite shorts, and decided it must be the heating element pitting out. I installed a new heating element, filled the tank with water, and then tried it on electric - It worked fine, did not trip the breaker, I ran it for about 30 minutes. This morning at another campout, I flip the red switch and the breaker blows again.
Before I dig into it again, any ideas???

Might be an intermittent short that connects after road shake. Connect your John meter and begin pulling, shaking wires near the element. You may have temporarily opened the short when you replaced the element.

I'd check the thermostat/ECO for loose wires, along with the back of the Red on/off switch for loose wires, and also the circuit breaker for loose wires.

You might find our Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide helpful. It doesn't cover this scenario, but there's wiring and other info that might help you. Note that on Page 7, the 110V and 12V components may be located the opposite of what's described. That is, it may be the left-hand assembly carrying 110V and the right hand 12V.

Loose connection (at water heater, or breaker) causing high amp draw,
Faulty breaker tripping at lower than rated amperage,
Low supply voltage at campsites driving up amperage above rated breaker (for 1440W heater).

Brian

Hey Bill, disconnect the circuit from the water heater and see if you can prove the circuit good to that point. Then the 'stat. You have already proved the element to bee not the problem.

Gaffer said:

Hey Bill, disconnect the circuit from the water heater and see if you can prove the circuit good to that point. Then the 'stat. You have already proved the element to bee not the problem.

Click to expand...

PJ:
I thought when I get some free time I would start with disconnecting 1 side of the heater, trying the circuit, then reconnecting the 1st side and disconnecting the 2nd side of the heater and trying it again to see if it is caused by electrical leakage in the tank, or wiring short. Then I will start digging into everything in the circuit. Having the propane heating option makes it much less a priority.
I measured the voltage in the trailer this morning and it was a good 117 volts.


PJ, BTW, I am in Redding this weekend with the NorLow's, at the park right next to where I dropped you and Carol off.

My guess is the electric heating element is blown.

I had this happen in a TT in 2004. It was blowing the 30 amp breaker at the pedestal at a state park. The 30 amp power breaker was a GFI type. It did not like the current leakage in the water tank. I was not aware I had blown the element. I was a real green horn in 2004.

Best of luck Bill.