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scottyb
06-25-2013, 07:32 AM
Last weekend my pump began running continuously, even when water was not being used. I checked visually for leaks behind the basement wall and could not see anything dripping or running out of the rig. We completed the trip by turning it off when not in use. With the pump running continously, it would seem that if it was a leak, there would be a lot of water running somewhere. I prefer not to take it to the dealer. Any ideas what might be the problem?

justafordguy
06-25-2013, 09:11 AM
If you are positively sure no watter is leaking it may be a bad pump/pressure switch.

szewczyk_john
06-25-2013, 11:15 AM
On my SOB trailer, the winterizing feed valve would not shut completely shut off. I would get no leaks cause there was no water running through that line but air would get sucked in through that line ever so slightly. This in turn would not let the system build up the pressure do shut the pump down. This was like trying to find an electrical gremlin cause there would be no water leaks and everything would work fine as far as water to the sinks, toilet and shower. Not sure if our trailers are set up the same but might be worth a look to make sure you have the winterizing lever fully closed.

scottyb
06-25-2013, 01:11 PM
On my SOB trailer, the winterizing feed valve would not shut completely shut off. I would get no leaks cause there was no water running through that line but air would get sucked in through that line ever so slightly. This in turn would not let the system build up the pressure do shut the pump down. This was like trying to find an electrical gremlin cause there would be no water leaks and everything would work fine as far as water to the sinks, toilet and shower. Not sure if our trailers are set up the same but might be worth a look to make sure you have the winterizing lever fully closed.

I have never used my winterizing feed yet but that doesn't mean it can't start leaking. A friend of mine said he had a leak on the suction side that caused the same symptoms. It has worked fine since I have had it until Sat night. It sounded as if I was running out of water, but showed to have 2/3. When I got home, I started draining the tank into a 5 gal bucket, and dumped 10 gallons before I decided to save some water to look for the leak.

mobilcastle
06-25-2013, 02:16 PM
I also would look for a loose connection-air leak.

szewczyk_john
06-25-2013, 02:17 PM
is there a good strong stream coming out at your sinks? If not I would drain the tank and look at the line that feeds the water pump. If you have a good strong stream I would think that the pressure switch or you have air getting into the line and the pump is unable to reach the proper pressure to trigger the switch. I noticed that you have a 13 model year trailer. They have the new 4 way valve. I do not have one of those but I do not think it would be a bad valve because I think you would see it leaking when hooked up to your water source.

RoadJunkie
06-25-2013, 02:51 PM
On my SOB trailer, the winterizing feed valve would not shut completely shut off. I would get no leaks cause there was no water running through that line but air would get sucked in through that line ever so slightly. This in turn would not let the system build up the pressure do shut the pump down. This was like trying to find an electrical gremlin cause there would be no water leaks and everything would work fine as far as water to the sinks, toilet and shower. Not sure if our trailers are set up the same but might be worth a look to make sure you have the winterizing lever fully closed.

same problem for me. i rarely use my pump so i did not associate the problem with the winterization valve. it turns out my (plastic) valve handle was rounded off because the valve had quite a bit of resistance when turning. so even though the handle caused me to think the valve was closed, it was not, hence causing an air leak to the pump.

scottyb
07-21-2013, 02:48 PM
I tried to trace the problem today without success. I quit when it got to 95 degrees and did not remove the coroplast cover to get to the holding tanks. I did tighten all the hand-tight connections on the pump, the 4-way valve, and the strainer bowl, but it did not solve the issue. There is no eveidence of a water leak in the basement.

If it was a vacuum leak, wouldn't I be getting a continuous flow of air in the lines? The water comes out of all the fuacets without air. I let the pump run the whole time I was under there. You would think that if it was a leak on the pressure side, there would be water running out somewhere. I'm starting to wonder about the pump itself.

danemayer
07-21-2013, 04:26 PM
Scotty,

The pump has a pressure switch. When pressure drops, it turns on. When pressure is re-established, it turns off. If the switch is adjusted wrong, it may not turn off when normal pressure is re-established.

Here's a link to the Shurflo manual (http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/index.php?man=Plumbing/Pump/Shurflo) which has some troubleshooting tips.

Also, I seem to recall a tip to check for leaks on the input side of the pump. Switch the 4 way valve to antifreeze. That will bypass an air leak problem at the fresh tank. If the pump stops running, you know where the problem lies.

Greengas
07-21-2013, 04:33 PM
One other thought. How do you fill your fresh water tank? If it is by gravity and you leave the cap off that can cause the pump to run. If it is by a switch make sure it is in the right position. I know these sound real basic and you probably have done them but since they were not mentioned I thought I would bring it up. It sounds to me, like you have air coming into the system somewhere that is preventing the system from closing. But, then again, it could be just a bad pump. If you buy a new pump and it turns out not to be the pump then you've checked one more thing off the list and now you can either return the new pump or keep it for a back up for when, and it will, the pump does fail.

TedS
07-21-2013, 06:09 PM
Cap on or off gravity fill makes no difference. There may be debris in the pump head keeping the pump valves from closing and not building pressure.

scottyb
07-21-2013, 06:40 PM
Scotty,

The pump has a pressure switch. When pressure drops, it turns on. When pressure is re-established, it turns off. If the switch is adjusted wrong, it may not turn off when normal pressure is re-established.

Here's a link to the Shurflo manual (http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/index.php?man=Plumbing/Pump/Shurflo) which has some troubleshooting tips.



Also, I seem to recall a tip to check for leaks on the input side of the pump. Switch the 4 way valve to antifreeze. That will bypass an air leak problem at the fresh tank. If the pump stops running, you know where the problem lies.

I tried the Winterize setting just now, no luck. It continues to run. It was worth a try, thanks.

Greengas, I fill through a 4 way valve, with it on the Tank setting. It will not pump water until you switch it to Normal, so I have had it on City, Tank, and now Winterize. I was thinking the same thing about getting a new pump. I have wanted to carry a spare with me anyway, especially on an upcoming trip to Moab in Oct. I will be dry camping for a week.


There may be debris in the pump head keeping the pump valves from closing and not building pressure.

Possibly, but it would have to make it through the strainer. The strainer appears to be clean.

scottyb
07-21-2013, 09:11 PM
Well, turns out the Shurflo 5.7 Extreme Smart Sensor is a $300 pump. Amazon shows them out of stock with an unknown date. I may be headed for the dealer this week. My 1 year is up on 7/27.

danemayer
07-21-2013, 10:04 PM
Call ShurFlo. They'll probably ship you a pump directly if you're within 1 year. They may ask you to peel off the label and mail it to them first though.

recumbent615
07-22-2013, 05:17 AM
I tried the Winterize setting just now, no luck. It continues to run. It was worth a try, thanks.

Greengas, I fill through a 4 way valve, with it on the Tank setting. It will not pump water until you switch it to Normal, so I have had it on City, Tank, and now Winterize. I was thinking the same thing about getting a new pump. I have wanted to carry a spare with me anyway, especially on an upcoming trip to Moab in Oct. I will be dry camping for a week.



Possibly, but it would have to make it through the strainer. The strainer appears to be clean.


ScottyB,

I'm going to ask - when you tried the winterize setting on the 4 way switch did you have the anti-freeze hose in a bucket of water? If you did not then you were only sucking air when on winterize... Just a thought.

Kevin

For20hunter
07-22-2013, 10:47 AM
Also, if you have the 4 way water valve in your UDC and you have it anywhere other than the city water position your pump will run continuously. We even tried using our tank water while filling the tank and the pump just ran continuously with no water coming out.

Rod Ditrich

Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk 4 Beta

scottyb
07-22-2013, 03:41 PM
ScottyB,

I'm going to ask - when you tried the winterize setting on the 4 way switch did you have the anti-freeze hose in a bucket of water? If you did not then you were only sucking air when on winterize... Just a thought.

Kevin

BTW, The pump worked fine for 3 days of a 4 day trip. Since I have never used the "winterize" function on my rig (blew all the lines out with air last fall), I wasn't fully aware of how it was supposed to work. I thought mine would have some bypass valves and a hose in the basement, to operate. I found that the suction hose goes straight from the 4-way valve to the pump, no tee, or valves. Now, I will run the test again tonight, with a hose and a bucket of water, and see if I get a different result.

bsuds
07-01-2014, 05:40 PM
same problem for me. i rarely use my pump so i did not associate the problem with the winterization valve. it turns out my (plastic) valve handle was rounded off because the valve had quite a bit of resistance when turning. so even though the handle caused me to think the valve was closed, it was not, hence causing an air leak to the pump.

I just fixed this same problem on my 2011 Big Country. Took me awhile to find it and had a spill to clean up as well.
Now I just need to find a new lever for the valve. I will try to glue the broken one but it doesn't look promising for that to work.

scottyb
07-01-2014, 06:15 PM
Old topic. I guess I never updated the results. The pump was bad and also had been discontinued. Shurflo was going to ship one to me but my dealer found one in San Antonio and I picked it at my dealer. The replacement pump is a 4048 and only a 4.5 GPM, but there is no noticeable difference in volume.

porthole
07-01-2014, 08:06 PM
The original shurflo pump was replaced due to all the failures.