Water Heater Problems...again

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Now it seems the water heater won't function on propane at all. Last year, I replaced the circuit board, but found after manipulating the connectors on the gas valve that the system worked again. Now, when I hit the switch for propane on the monitor panel, it lights but the LED next to it doesn't. In essence, the ignition system isn't working. Tried last year's fixes, swapped the old board back in, but no joy. Now I wonder if the gas valve solenoid has given up the ghost. PITA, since it was working earlier this summer. Fortunately, it still works on 120V.

Since there isn't much else to the propane system on the water heater, I'm leaning towards replacing the valve solenoid. I've found it at AmericanRV Company for $72, but wonder if anybody's got other suggestions.
 
John,

If you put a voltmeter across the two terminals on the solenoid, I would think you have to see 12 volts when the switch is flipped on. That should lead you where to go next. I'd unplug the 120 VAC on the RV just to be safe also. If you see voltage then its the solenoid, if not the ignitor board would be suspect or some connection in between.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
John,

The sequence for Suburban is that when you turn the switch, 12V flows through the thermostat and ECO to the control board, lighting the LED next to the switch. If that LED doesn't come on, I'd check voltage at the thermostat/ECO assembly. If the thermostat or ECO is open, the ignition sequence won't start. Note that if the electric side is keeping the water hot, both thermostats will be open. Also may need a reset on the ECO.

If it were trying to ignite and failed, the LED should stay on indicating a lockout condition.

1. Confirm power at On/Off switch (10.5V min)
2. Confirm voltage at the thermostat and ECO (right-hand unit)
3. Confirm power present on red wire to module board, and on blue wire to reset light. Confirm grounds are secure. Test reset light bulb.
 
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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
OK, I checked for voltage at the valve terminals and the circuit board connector and got zero. The wires for the circuit board disappear towards the front of the WH, on the opposite side, so seeing where they connect will require pulling the basement apart. I'll give the thermostat/ECO a look tomorrow. We'll be leaving the rig at the end of the week and pulling it to the storage yard later in the month. Push comes to shove I'll bite the bullet and let my dealer play with it.

Still have to identify the source of the washer leak this week. Gotta take advantage of good weather to enjoy the lakes while we can.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Problem solved! I followed Dan's advice and the guide and checked voltage on the 12V Hi-Limit/Thermostat. No good, so I found a replacement at a local RV dealer near the CG and replaced it. Water heater fired right up on propane after I installed it. I did have to use a 140 deg. switch instead of the OEM 130, but a call to Suburban assured me that it would not be a problem. Only thing it might cause is some seepage from the T&P valve, but after two firings, it hasn't dripped yet.
 

mobilcastle

Well-known member
Good job-glad your nagging problem is solved.
Problem solved! I followed Dan's advice and the guide and checked voltage on the 12V Hi-Limit/Thermostat. No good, so I found a replacement at a local RV dealer near the CG and replaced it. Water heater fired right up on propane after I installed it. I did have to use a 140 deg. switch instead of the OEM 130, but a call to Suburban assured me that it would not be a problem. Only thing it might cause is some seepage from the T&P valve, but after two firings, it hasn't dripped yet.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I've got a folder on my external hard drive with a ton of info files, manuals and instructions. And a big binder with print copies of several of them.

As for the water heater, it did go into lock-out this morning after running all night (no, not continuously). Reset it and it's been OK for several hours since. Most of the time, I run it on 120V, but I want the gas function for backup.
 
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