SOLVED: Warm not HOT water

Miltp920

Miltp920

Well-known member
We have an Atwood hot water heater GC10A-4E that is putting out 95 to 100 degree warm water. We take showers with only hot water valve at full on, cold water full off. This has been this way since we picked it up this new 2014 cyclone 3100 August 20, 2013. I have been told it is a fixed thermostat, but it should be fixed at a HOTTER fixed setting from factory?? I do not see an adjustment anywhere. There is a foam covering over what appears to be the thermostat inside hot water heater door that has E.C.O. T'STAT Printed on foam. Two red and two brown wires attach here. there is also something that looks like an inline fuse or capacitor in one of the brown wires. does this have anything to do with temperature setting? Can someone validate what the correct setting should be fixed at? How would I go about troubleshooting this issue? I have tried to run both gas and electric heating at same time, no differences, still just warm water. Is this a dealer fix, or can I do something. Not happy with warm water for showers and washing dishes.
 
jnbhobe

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

It sounds like you have a valve open on your outside shower
 
cookie

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

If you are getting only warm water using either electric or LP then it sounds like your problem might be with the outside shower.
Be sure that the hot and cold faucets on the outside shower are both turned off.

Peace
Dave
 
Subdrv

Subdrv

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

Miltp920 said:
We have an Atwood hot water heater GC10A-4E that is putting out 95 to 100 degree warm water. We take showers with only hot water valve at full on, cold water full off. This has been this way since we picked it up this new 2014 cyclone 3100 August 20, 2013. I have been told it is a fixed thermostat, but it should be fixed at a HOTTER fixed setting from factory?? I do not see an adjustment anywhere. There is a foam covering over what appears to be the thermostat inside hot water heater door that has E.C.O. T'STAT Printed on foam. Two red and two brown wires attach here. there is also something that looks like an inline fuse or capacitor in one of the brown wires. does this have anything to do with temperature setting? Can someone validate what the correct setting should be fixed at? How would I go about troubleshooting this issue? I have tried to run both gas and electric heating at same time, no differences, still just warm water. Is this a dealer fix, or can I do something. Not happy with warm water for showers and washing dishes.
Click to expand...


I had a similar issue on the new cyclone. I found the by-pass on the hot water heater open. I didn't catch it on the PDI.

Robbie
 
danemayer

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

Agree, it sounds like hot and cold water are getting mixed because something's open that should be closed. Most likely the outside shower faucets.

If it's not that, the thermostat/ECO assembly may be defective or not seated correctly because it's supposed to turn on the heat when water temp drops to 115 (F) and off at 140 degrees (F).

If it works correctly on gas but not on electric, or vice-versa, you have a different cause.
 
5

57chevyconvt

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

If the HW heater by-pass valve (B&B Molder supplied valve) has been operated, check the valve orientation with the plastic handle removed to make sure the valve body ball is the closed position.
 
kowAlski631

kowAlski631

Well-known member
Check the outside shower. We had the same issue & thought we were not going to be happy with our decision to buy the BH.
 
D

DocFather

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

What is the water temp (taken at the pressure relief valve) when you heat up a tank-full with propane?

If the shower valves are mixing, or the bypass valves mixing - that is obvious.

Since there is only one thermostat (set at 147°) for both the electric side AND the propane side, if the temp is higher when heating with propane then the problem is either the heating element (these are sensitive and get burned out if you leave them on when there is no water in the hot water tank) or somehow, there might not be 120v going into the water heater.
 
Miltp920

Miltp920

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

kowAlski631 said:
Check the outside shower. We had the same issue & thought we were not going to be happy with our decision to buy the BH.
Click to expand...

I think it is the outside shower. I used it with a spray nozzle and left the valves open, spray nozzle shut off. Not sure how this would affect the inside shower temp, but I just turned on both gas and electric heating. I will know shortly if this is the fix. Funny, I asked my dealer 24 hr service tech AND HL service and neither suggested this easy fix.
 
Mizmary

Mizmary

Well-known member
Warm not HOT water heater issue

I agree you should check the hot water bypass near the water heater. We had that issue with our SOB when we first got it. Once we shut the bypass, the water came out almost as hot as steam. Check that next.
 
Miltp920

Miltp920

Well-known member
ATF: Cyclone - Hot water heater

I do not understand the 20gal/hr rating on the Cyclone brochure. My 2014 cyclone has an Atwood GC10A-4E and the manufacture label says 8.48gal/hr recovery. Was this an option, I thought 20gal/hr was standard. Also, what would cause my HWH to only put out 98 degree water? Both outside shower valves are shut. Seems it is a fixed temp T'STAT, but should be 115 to 140???
 
danemayer

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Hot water heater

Miltp920 said:
I do not understand the 20gal/hr rating on the Cyclone brochure. My 2014 cyclone has an Atwood GC10A-4E and the manufacture label says 8.48gal/hr recovery. Was this an option, I thought 20gal/hr was standard. Also, what would cause my HWH to only put out 98 degree water? Both outside shower valves are shut. Seems it is a fixed temp T'STAT, but should be 115 to 140???
Click to expand...
Miltp920,

I've moved your new post to this thread so all the answers are in one place.

Since you asked the 98 degree question just a few minutes ago, does that mean that it hasn't gotten warmer since you closed the shower valves, and that you've checked the bypass controls?

In answer to the 20 Gallon Brochure description; Atwood has designed the unit with a faster recovery than previous designs, such that it operates as though it had 20 gallon capacity (compared to heaters using the older design). The new design gives you more hot water within a given time period without taking up more space and adding weight of a larger tank and 80 additional pounds of water.
 
Miltp920

Miltp920

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Hot water heater

Yes, it did not get warmer. So, maybe it is the bypass valve. I'll look for it tomorrow. So why doesn't Atwood label it 20gal/hr instead of 8.48 as is my HWH? I did print the guide, thanks.
 
Miltp920

Miltp920

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

Miltp920 said:
I think it is the outside shower. I used it with a spray nozzle and left the valves open, spray nozzle shut off. Not sure how this would affect the inside shower temp, but I just turned on both gas and electric heating. I will know shortly if this is the fix. Funny, I asked my dealer 24 hr service tech AND HL service and neither suggested this easy fix.
Click to expand...

Mizmary said:
I agree you should check the hot water bypass near the water heater. We had that issue with our SOB when we first got it. Once we shut the bypass, the water came out almost as hot as steam. Check that next.
Click to expand...

SOB post goes with this response...
 
danemayer

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: ATF: Cyclone - Hot water heater

Miltp920 said:
Yes, it did not get warmer. So, maybe it is the bypass valve. I'll look for it tomorrow. So why doesn't Atwood label it 20gal/hr instead of 8.48 as is my HWH? I did print the guide, thanks.
Click to expand...
One is the actual measurement of recovery time. The other is a marketing device that positions a water heater that holds 10 gallons of water as delivering more hot water than one that holds 12 gallons or one that holds 16 gallons.
 
D

DocFather

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

If it got hotter with Propane use, then the issue on the electric side is the Heating Element. I am dealing with the exact same issue. I am living with the luke-warm shower when on the electric side (110°) because I don't want to take it in to a local dealer for repair (I bought it 3 hours away from what I call home)
 
Miltp920

Miltp920

Well-known member
Re: Warm not HOT water heater issue

DocFather said:
If it got hotter with Propane use, then the issue on the electric side is the Heating Element. I am dealing with the exact same issue. I am living with the luke-warm shower when on the electric side (110°) because I don't want to take it in to a local dealer for repair (I bought it 3 hours away from what I call home)
Click to expand...


Thanks to all who provided me assistance. Water heater Bypass valve was left open, or installed open by factory. I got stuck thinking it was a thermostat issue. MUCH easier to shut the bypass valve. Nice HOT water now. I have learned so much already from surfing this forum. Again thanks!
 
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