Hot Water Heater Bypass / Shore Power

lisntodd

Member
We have a Big Country 3690SL and are connected to shore power. I noticed water leaking from underneath our RV frame. I took the basement access panel off and noticed there was a leak where the water enters the hot water heater. I switched the water heater to bypass, came inside and turned the electric water heater OFF, and turned the LP water heater ON. Is this correct, or can I keep the electric water heater on?

Sorry, new to all of this!

lisntodd
 

priorguy

Well-known member
If you switched the water heater to bypass then all water will bypass the tank. Turn off gas and water so you don't burn out your elements or tank. The bypass is for winterizing, or in this case it stops your leak as a temporary fix.
 

lisntodd

Member
"Turn off gas and water"? Can we not use the stove or water from the tank?

Or did you mean turn off water heater electric AND water heater LP?
 

priorguy

Well-known member
Turn off everything to do with the hot water tank. Stove furnace etc. on gas and other stuff on electric will be fine. It sounds like a water leak on the HWT itself. Switching to bypass mode reroutes the water around the tank and you would still have cold water. You want to turn off the tank because you need pressure to get the water out. Once it's dry you could do damage. Did you try to fill your fresh water tank and use the pump instead of city water. Might be a different connection to the HWT allowing you to use it that way until fixed.
 

lisntodd

Member
I filled the water tank and we are now using the water as if we were boondocking. Water pump on, hot water heater bypassed / off.

The hose that connects INTO the hot water heater (at the top) came out, that is where the leak was. It wasn't all the way in. But it's not fitting back in now.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Hi lisantodd,

If you have a hot water heater leak, you need to stop the leak so water doesn't cause damage to the wood under the heater and in the basement.

To stop the leak you need to turn off the water heater (both LP and electric), let it cool, bypass it so that no more water goes in. Drain the water heater so water already in the tank doesn't continue to leak out. If you're not familiar with how to do this, we have it covered in detail in the Water Heater Usage Guide.

You might want to take a closer look at the leak. It's possible it could be leaking from the outlet on top and dripping onto the lower fitting. The top outlet, which is where the hot water comes out, probably has a check valve. The plastic check valves have been known to crack over time. The result is a leak. Sometimes a little leak. Sometimes a big leak. The Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide has detailed instructions on replacing this check valve if that's what the problem is.

With the water heater turned off and bypassed, and drained, you can still use cold water and all the other appliances in the RV. Btw, once the water heater is bypassed, there's no point in continuing to heat the water since it will stay in the water heater (except for where it's leaking).
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Question here. Are you using a water pressure regulator?
If there is too much pressure that could cause fittings to come off or leak.
If you have enough water line, you should be able to cut the PEX fitting off the hose and as a temporary fix, install a screw drive hose clamp.

Peace
Dave
 

lisntodd

Member
We do have a regulator at the facet, what is a good PSI to have it set at?

Thanks for all of the helpful information.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Is your water heater bypass a lever in the UDC, or do you have 3 separate valves behind the water heater?

Is this a Suburban Water Heater, or an Atwood?
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Its a Suburban & the lever is in the UDC.

Even though bypassed, because the pump output is teed into the city water so that either can supply water, using the pump will push water backward through the leak.

There's a diagram on page 6 of the Water Systems Guide that will help you visualize this. Where the dashed blue line joins the red, water will flow through the leak.
 

lisntodd

Member
In attempting to remove the check valve from the water heater, the plastic check valve broke in half. Some of the valve is STILL lodged / screwed into the water heater, preventing me from putting in the new valve. Any idea/suggestion as to how I can get it screwed out, being there is no exposed part to grab onto with pliers.

Thanks!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I've attached the pages from the Water Heater Troubleshooting and Repair guide that cover replacing the check valve.

Once the plastic is broken, there are several things you can try. A hacksaw blade may let you snag the broken piece(s). A nipple removal tool for 1/2" sprinkler system pipe (from Home Depot) is another approach. Some people have just picked at the pieces with a sharp tool until they get them all out - long and hard job in a confined space, but sometimes that's what it takes.

Btw, I know the Camco link embedded in the document doesn't work. They've made a change on their website. Here's one on Amazon.com, but since you need male on both ends, you'll also need a 1/2" close nipple to make it work.
 

Attachments

  • Suburban Water Heater - Changing the Check Valve.pdf
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57chevyconvt

Well-known member
In attempting to remove the check valve from the water heater, the plastic check valve broke in half. Some of the valve is STILL lodged / screwed into the water heater, preventing me from putting in the new valve. Any idea/suggestion as to how I can get it screwed out, being there is no exposed part to grab onto with pliers.

Thanks!
The technique that I use to remove Plastic of PVC/CPVC fittings from threaded connections such as you have described is to use a Dremmel tool with a tile grout removal tool which is about 1/8" dia., carefully route out two grooves (180 deg. apart) in the plastic fitting which is broke off in the female pipe threads. After making the two grooves, insert a large blade screw drive into the grooves for removal. By cutting the grooves in the plastic, this will help to reduce the tapered thread loading on the small plastic piece that remains in the threads. I have the nipple removal tool but the technique noted above works best for me. Good luck! Perseverance and patience will eventually prevail!
 

lisntodd

Member
I got the plastic out using the nipple tool (Thanks!). I replaced the check valve but it still leaks at the connection of the brass water hose connection and the gray knob that connects the hose to the check valve. Also, when I switch the water to City, it leaks a lot from underneath the UDC area AND the water heater, but when I switch the water to Normal it ONLY leaks from the water heater.
 
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