Propane flow issue - Unsure of what part(s) is at fault

klindgren

Retired Virginia Chapter Leaders
I don't know if I have a furnace, a propane regulator or a thermostat problem. My "automatic switch-over" from one propane tank to another is not working properly. When the "active" propane tank runs out of propane, my furnace will not start drawing from the secondary propane tank. I have to go out side, turn the regulator switch to the secondary tank thus making it the "active" tank. Then, I must come back in the trailer, turn the thermostat off and then back on in order to get the furnace to kick in.

This morning (about 3 AM) I woke up to 53 degrees inside the camper. I had to go outside in the 25 degree temps to switch over the propane regulator. This has happened several times. I would automatically think it was the regulator, but I already had it replaced once on this brand new 2014 trailer. That's why I'm not sure who the culprit is. Any thoughts or insights? I really do not like the new propane regulator Heartland is now using and am thinking about buying a different style (read much better quality than Heartland is using) if you all think the regulator is the problem.

Thanks
 

NWILSON

Kentucky Chapter Leaders - retired
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

I'm sure this hasn't been a very good start to your morning!
It sounds like you may have more than one issue or one issue may be causing another.
I think my first step this morning would be to call the Customer Service department of the maker of the regulator. See what input and troubleshooting they can offer. If they feel the regulator is at fault, get it replaced. Once that is fixed or ruled out give the furnace maker a call and see if they can offer any help.
At some point this year I bought some propane with a lot of oil in it that caused a lot of issues. Perhaps an outside influence like this is causing your system to malfunction.
Please come back and post what your learn and what efforts get your system working again!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

Hi Keith,

I had a similar problem recently that I finally discovered was due to oil pooling in the hose coming out of the auto-change regulator. The problem got worse over time, initially showing up with the generator but eventually making the furnace operation unreliable.
 

jpdoggett

Well-known member
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

I have had this same problem ever since I have had my Landmark was told that it was the regulator but I just move the tanks around
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

I had this problem in our previous Landmark. It was a combo of issues. The regulator was bad as was the hose that ran from the tank to the regulator. Replaced both and it solved the problem. I doubt if the furnace is at issue as it works on the one tank. FYI the hose that runs from the tank to the regulator has an internal check valve that will cut off flow if it gets too high. That check valve was defective in mine. Also if you turn on the tank too fast it will "set off" the check valve shutting down the flow. So when you turn on the tank valve do it slowly. Sometimes you can reset the check valve by turning off the tank, waiting a couple of minutes then turning the tank on slowly. Good luck. BTW it always seems your propane issues happen in the middle of a cold night.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

Because the rig is so new, I wonder if there might be a hidden "Kink" in the crossover hose from tank to tank. Keith, are your tanks on opposite sides of the trailer or the same side. I would be surprised if you had 2 regulator failures within this short of a time period. One failure would even be strange.
Another possible problem could be the tank valve malfunctioning. Reset your valves by closing them, disconnecting the pigtails and reattach them then open the tank valves slowly.
 

pegmikef

Well-known member
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

If I read the OP's description correctly, both tanks work which means the regulator has to be working. The furnace works, just has to recycle it. It sounds like only the crossover valve is not working correctly, or somehow air is getting into the line at crossover time and the furnace is shutting down due to the air.
 

TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

A friend of mine has a new 2014 BH and had the same problem a few weeks ago. It would not auto change between tanks. For whatever reason the outside cover was missing on the regulator when he received his rig.
I believe it was determined the regulator was bad. (Bad batch of regulators maybe?) Trace
 

klindgren

Retired Virginia Chapter Leaders
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

Thanks for the responses. Assuming I do not have two bad regulators, sounds like the "oil in the hose" might be the culprit. Before I start removing hoses and parts, etc. I already have an appointment next week at my local dealer to replace a faulty sink faucet, I'm asking them to check it out and let me know what they "think" is the problem (wouldn't be the first time a bad part was replaced by an equally bad part) so I want them to rule out a bad regulator.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Keith,

You should ask them to check the pressure at the furnace test port to see if it's getting a reading of 11 on their manometer. If not, they'd work backwards to find the problem. If they don't know how to do that or don't have a manometer, they're just guessing at what's wrong and doing trial & error parts replacements.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Re: Have a Problem. Not sure who to blame

Thanks for the responses. Assuming I do not have two bad regulators, sounds like the "oil in the hose" might be the culprit. Before I start removing hoses and parts, etc. I already have an appointment next week at my local dealer to replace a faulty sink faucet, I'm asking them to check it out and let me know what they "think" is the problem (wouldn't be the first time a bad part was replaced by an equally bad part) so I want them to rule out a bad regulator.

I hope the dealer knows "who" they are dealing with (Santa :)).
 

klindgren

Retired Virginia Chapter Leaders
Keith,

You should ask them to check the pressure at the furnace test port to see if it's getting a reading of 11 on their manometer. If not, they'd work backwards to find the problem. If they don't know how to do that or don't have a manometer, they're just guessing at what's wrong and doing trial & error parts replacements.

I assume a manometer measures propane pressure? New twist --yesterday, my regulator switched tanks, just like it is suppose to do. I "flipped the switch" and took the empty tank in for refill. When we got home from going out, several hours later, the temp inside the trailer was down to 56 degrees. All I did then, was turn the thermostat off and back on to get the furnace to start. So now, I'm really confused. Seems to me the regulator may not be the problem.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Keith,

Is the problem bidirectional? That is, does it matter which side/tank it's switching to when the failure occurs. For example, if it always fails when switching to the doorside tank, you may have a problem with the pigtail or regulator on that side, or with the crossover hose.

If it always fails when switching to the off-doorside tank, you may have a bad pigtail on that side.
 

klindgren

Retired Virginia Chapter Leaders
Keith,

Is the problem bidirectional? That is, does it matter which side/tank it's switching to when the failure occurs. For example, if it always fails when switching to the doorside tank, you may have a problem with the pigtail or regulator on that side, or with the crossover hose.

If it always fails when switching to the off-doorside tank, you may have a bad pigtail on that side.

Dan, That's a good question. I believe it is only when switching from door-side to off-door side, but I'm not 100% sure. I'll let you know when the current door-side tank runs out (it's the active tank now).

Except now I think my trailer might be haunted. Yesterday afternoon, I went to bring the slides in to move over to the dump station and nothing worked. Not even the electrical bedroom slide. I had to go to the front by the hydraulic pump and reset one of the main fuses located there. Tried the slides again and they worked, but it looked like I was drawing 200 amps of current. Slides were slow and lights went very dim and flickered. I stopped, then noticed, my CO Gas detector was blinking red. Pushed that reset button after checking to ensure no stove top buttons had been turned on accidentally (they had not). Detector light went green. Like I said, I think this trailer is haunted. After it warms up this morning I'm going to try again to move the rig over to the dump station
 
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jbeletti

Well-known member
Keith,

Sounds like your batteries are near dead. Was your coach plugged into AC power just prior to trying the slides? Maybe your converter is unplugged. I've had it happen twice where my converter came unplugged.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Keith,

I agree with Jim. Sounds like the battery ran down. If things started working again after pressing a reset button on a 12V circuit breaker, like the one pictured here, the battery wasn't getting a charge and would have run down.
 

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klindgren

Retired Virginia Chapter Leaders
Keith,

I agree with Jim. Sounds like the battery ran down. If things started working again after pressing a reset button on a 12V circuit breaker, like the one pictured here, the battery wasn't getting a charge and would have run down.

That's the one I had to reset. I had been plugged into shore power when I tried the slides so battery charge should not have been an issue should it? I had a second battery added last month. Would they have unplugged the inverter when doing that?

Yesterday, everything worked as it should. All the slides came in and legs came up, pulled to the dump station, then reset the trailer on the pad without a single issue. I guess the Gremlins decided to leave me alone yesterday. Must have been off visiting someone else.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
That's the one I had to reset. I had been plugged into shore power when I tried the slides so battery charge should not have been an issue should it? I had a second battery added last month. Would they have unplugged the inverter when doing that?

Yesterday, everything worked as it should. All the slides came in and legs came up, pulled to the dump station, then reset the trailer on the pad without a single issue. I guess the Gremlins decided to leave me alone yesterday. Must have been off visiting someone else.
Keith,

The converter output that charges the battery goes through that 12V breaker that was tripped. The interior lights and other low-current 12V devices can be powered by the converter even if the breaker is tripped, but the high-current devices like the hydraulic motor depend on the battery being charged. Take a look at the 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide and it should all make more sense.
 

klindgren

Retired Virginia Chapter Leaders
Keith,

The converter output that charges the battery goes through that 12V breaker that was tripped. The interior lights and other low-current 12V devices can be powered by the converter even if the breaker is tripped, but the high-current devices like the hydraulic motor depend on the battery being charged. Take a look at the 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide and it should all make more sense.

Thanks Dan. That's excellent information to put in my "toolbox"
 
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