General questions (electric, underbelly)

ky-newbie

Member
Hi all,

Newbie questions.

1) I'm considering Full-timing, staying in one place (doing computer work from the RV via satellite). I don't own an RV yet - looking at a Bighorn. I would like to park the RV in a friend's large driveway and connect to his electric somehow. Would a 110 outlet on the side of his house (on a separate circuit) be sufficient, or would I have to get some type of special connection? He has a septic tank, so I assume hooking into it wouldn't be a big deal - just splicing into the line, after digging a trench.

2) I haven't seen anything on the forums about the new residential "on-demand" water heaters - an RV version. It's the type that has no tank for storage - it instantly heats the water when the faucet is opened. Seems like it would solve a big winterizing issue. Has anyone gone that route, using a residential version?

3) In reading the description of the underbelly, I see "one-piece seamless underbelly". How much flexibility does it have, if I had to access something like pipes? If the pipe's under the center of the RV, would I have to take 1/2 of the underbelly cover off?

Thanks! :)
Lannie
 

Oldlthrnecksgirl

Hisyoungercuterwife
I don't know all the tech reasons but I can relay our experience with staying at someones house. We stayed at a relatives for ten days in our BH. We hooked up to their electricity and were able to run the lights and coffee pot. We used propane for heat and hot water. Once, I turned on the toaster oven out of habit,,, blew the breaker in their house. In other words,,, I guess it is fine in a pinch as long as you don't use things like your microwave, fireplace, etc,,, but I was pretty happy to get out of there and be able to use all my appliances again.

The pipes are easily accessible really,,, undo a couple of screws and move the panel and there you are! It only becomes less handy once you have stuffed your basement tighter than a Christmas Turkey (not that we would do that )
 

Pulltab

Well-known member
Hi all,

Newbie questions.

1) I'm considering Full-timing, staying in one place (doing computer work from the RV via satellite). I don't own an RV yet - looking at a Bighorn. I would like to park the RV in a friend's large driveway and connect to his electric somehow. Would a 110 outlet on the side of his house (on a separate circuit) be sufficient, or would I have to get some type of special connection? He has a septic tank, so I assume hooking into it wouldn't be a big deal - just splicing into the line, after digging a trench.

110 volts won't get you very far. You will constantly have issues with overloading their circuit unless you use electricty very sparse.

Hooking into the septic, He doesn't mind you digging up his septic? Chances are there are restrictions to doing such a thing from the health department, barring that if he don't care I guess it is an option, but why not just use a hose and connect to his cleanout line?

2) I haven't seen anything on the forums about the new residential "on-demand" water heaters - an RV version. It's the type that has no tank for storage - it instantly heats the water when the faucet is opened. Seems like it would solve a big winterizing issue. Has anyone gone that route, using a residential version?

Yes there is an RV version, I have one in my Bighorn I installed, it works great but freezing is MORE of a problem with these than the standard unit. You can purchase the optional heater to keep it from freezing. The reason it freezes easier is it is basically exposed to the elements separated by only a sheet metal cover, the coils are like 3/8" diameter and when you are not running hot water it just sits there filled with cool water, now add temperature and you see the problem. They run about $1000 with options and will fit right where the old one is located no problem.


3) In reading the description of the underbelly, I see "one-piece seamless underbelly". How much flexibility does it have, if I had to access something like pipes? If the pipe's under the center of the RV, would I have to take 1/2 of the underbelly cover off?

On our Bighorn the water lines run along the frame, not the most desireable place for them, I insulated mine with the foam tubes and also insulated the bottom and increased the heating to the bottom. It is not hard to access the bottom but it is by no means FUN! Once the axles are on the rig removing the bottom in once piece is a near impossibility, You would need to separate it into a front and rear section or just drop each end. Either way it is not a fun job.

You don't mention how cold of weather you intend to be in?
 

ky-newbie

Member
Thanks

Thanks for the info.

I can see how running all the devices out of one 110 circuit could not be a good idea. I guess if you ran a new 30-40 amp circuit out to the RV, that would suffice.

I hadn't thought of the sewer clean-out - that would be sooo much easier.

This would be in Central Kentucky - our winters can get down to -10F, but usually hover around 10-30F above in the winter. Definitely below freezing. KY salesmen have told me if I have an enclosed underbelly, and run the furnace at least a little, nothing should freeze.
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
ky-newbie;
You had better have a 250 gallon propane tank hooked up to your coach if you plan to survive in -10 degree weather. Also, you will need to skirt and insulate around the bottom of the RV. 30 Amp won't do the job. You will need a 50 amp circuit 110 volt, not 220. Your sewer line going to the septic clean-out will need to be insulated and heat taped as will your water line coming into the trailer. If you are going to leave it sit in one place for a long period of time, why not go to a trailer park and set it up on a permanent site, or better yet, get a house trailer that is designed for a permanent set up? We full time in ours but the longest that we will ever sit in one place is 6 months and it is usually above the freezing mark. This morning was the exception when it was 27 and we were one of the few people in the park that had running water. Our water line and the water bib is heated and insulated.

You have a lot of work to do and need to talk to somebody other than your salesman that said "run the furnace at least a little, nothing should freeze" because he apparently hasn't been there.

Good Luck

John
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
ky-newbie,

Send an email or PM through this forum to user linuxkidd. He is living near Lexington this winter in his Landmark. Perhaps you can get some tips from him on what he is doing.

Jim
 

HappyKayakers

Well-known member
jpmorgan37 said:
ky-newbie;
You will need a 50 amp circuit 110 volt, not 220.

Hey John,
All the power poles I test with my meter are 240 on the 50 amp outlet, 120 on each leg. I think something inside the RV splits it back out to 120 on a circuit.

Joe
 

ky-newbie

Member
Thanks

Thanks for the tip, Jim. I had actually been thinking of taking "the grand tour" of linuxkid's setup. :p Unfortunately, a car accident sorta put everything on hold during December.:eek: ouch

John,

Thanks for your info. There is a lot to think about, isn't there?
Let me clarify a little. When I say -10, that would be for 2-3 days, maximum. I'd say the usual temp during Jan-Feb would bottom out around +15. I could get a permanent setup, but that kinda kills the whole RV idea. I'm single, and looking to downsize (drastically) from a 3,200 sq.ft. home (1,600 sq.ft. unfinished). Renting is out, houseboats make me seasick, RV's are intriguing... As far as my work goes, my current job could be done anywhere with a good cell phone signal, and a high speed Internet connection.

I had learned about insulating everything, including the skirting (thanks to this Forum). I'd like to leave open the option of moving after a year or so, or using it for vacations in various places.

There actually is a KOA about 15 miles away from my friend's home. That would hamper my main motivation to park it at his house: Finishing his unfinished basement in my spare time, being paid with goooooooood home cooking by his wife. :D Plus the KOA would cost $425 per month, while he wouldn't charge anything (just work).

Still ruminating.....
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Joe;

The way I understand it is that the 50 amp stanchions in RV parks are wired with two 120 volt feeds that are not tied together. True 2 pole RV service has 2 120V legs but they are independent and wired so that each leg goes to certain 120V circuits and appliances. As pointed out by Joe, next post down, this is the same as a standard 50 amp, 220/240 volt service in your stick built home. Whether it supplies 120 or 240 volts depends on how it is tied together in the load (appliance or RV).

John
 
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katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
jpmorgan37 said:
Joe;

The way I understand it is that the 50 amp stanchions in RV parks are wired with two 120 volt feeds that are not tied together. True 2 pole RV service has 2 120V legs but they are independent and wired so that each leg goes to certain 120V circuits and appliances-but they are not tied together anywhere to produce 220/240V. This is not like the 50 amp dryer service in your home that provides 220/240V service to your dryer. If you plug your RV into one of these, it will let the smoke out of a lot of your appliances, converter, electronics and just about everything else. That is one reason I suggested that he make sure that it was 110 volt, not 220 volt.

John

Here's a link I posted on wiring on another thread that explains it pretty well www.myrv.us/electric ...... Ken
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Thank you Ken, I stand corrected. I edited my previous post to so that it should read correctly. Never too old to learn.
John
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
jpmorgan37 said:
Thank you Ken, I stand corrected. I edited my previous post to so that it should read correctly. Never too old to learn.
John

The link is a good one, cause its easier for me to provide than trying to explain ....besides it has pictures.:) We are ageing like a fine wine , get better with age , its only when you pop the cork things can get a little slow and silly.....Ken
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Yes, it is a good link. I read most of it and have it bookmarked for future reference (and I read pictures real good).

John
 

donabel

Active Member
I tend to thnk that the 1 piece seamless underbelly is sort of shy in below freezing weather. I will probably do what I did with my previous unit.
Remove that 1 piece baby and add a layer of half inch foil backed foam (foil side up) and put the magic 1 piece under that to hold things in place.

Don
 
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