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NCskibum
05-14-2014, 04:53 PM
Justy picked up my 2015 3110, pdi with dealer went ok, all vents worked, cool and heat, only one that was in question was garrage heat vent, it blew cool to warm air, not like others which were hot, anyone else run into this? Does it take time to get the heat out of that one? Other that that, very pleased!!

alex00
05-14-2014, 11:03 PM
My 4000 does the same thing. On my last sob trailer the rear vent was just as Luke warm. It's a long run from the furnace to the vent. I'm resigned to leave get the door between the garage and living room open when the kids are sleeping back there.

TravisJen
05-15-2014, 07:28 AM
Our Torque has the same set up and we took it back to the dealer for that issue. They said that was the last vent on the run from the furnace and it was normal for it to be colder than the rest. They suggested just leaving the door open but when we have guests staying in the garage, it would be nice to give them their privacy.

Bob&Patty
05-15-2014, 10:06 AM
As others have stated....its a long run from the heater plenum to the rear. You could install adjustable registers in the coach and close some off to force more air flow to the rear. You could have your dealer remove the return air cover and make sure that you dont have excessive air leaks at the plenum. Or, you could do it yourself.

ILH
05-15-2014, 05:53 PM
Same issue here. In extreme heat I have a vertical fan that I place on the kitchen side of the doorway to push cool air into the garage. In cold weather, either the open doorway, or small clip-on fan to move the air aft.

The other issue is that I have two teenage boys. If I try to close off the garage, it tends to be rather smelly by morning!

SZROFFROAD
05-16-2014, 07:08 AM
just be glad you have a heat vent in the garage, no heat vent in my 2013 3110.

Atczdc
05-16-2014, 11:26 AM
My 4100 has the same issue. The rear vent is pointless. Having 6 vents run off one 35k furnace is just too many. I doubt closing off vents would help as none of the vents are connected. They would need to be closed off at the furnace. I just use a small ceramic heater in the back. That way, whoever is sleeping back there can control the temp themselves.

jeffdee
01-29-2015, 12:38 PM
I have a 2014 3110 and noticed the same thing this past weekend when we went camping. When the furnace is running there is cool air coming from the round wall vent in the garage. The floor vent on the other side of the glass doors is blowing hot. When the furnace stops there is no air coming into the garage from the round vent. I suspect that it is just a vent from the under belly to bring fresh air into the garage while the under belly is being heated. I have blocked it off to keep the garage warmer and I use an oil filled electric radiator heater to keep the garage warm. It does a good job at just half power setting, 750 watts. The little fan gently moves air from the floor through the radiator to better distribute heat into the room. I also use another radiator/fan combo by the entrance door to warm the den and front bedroom. If additional heat is needed I just use the electric fireplace. The gas furnace will hardly run with this setup which save a lot of propane. I only run the electric heaters on 750 watt setting so not to stress any electrical connections or breakers, or even the main plug at the primary electrical shore power connection. This past weekend had night time temps outside at 31 degrees with stiff winds. The inside temps stayed at 68 degrees with the gas furnace not needing to cycle all night. In my opinion these oil filled heaters are more efficient and safer than electric (strip) space heaters. They also have safety tip over switches in the controls.

34248

OEFVET
01-29-2015, 06:12 PM
I had the same issue. The air comes out cool. As many have already pointed out, a space heater/oil filled heater is needed especially if anyone is sleeping in the rear. The heat strip in the AC is useless in this cold weather.

GMCaddic
01-29-2015, 07:05 PM
Our Torque is the same way . We just use a portable buddy heater it does the job.

happykraut
01-30-2015, 08:25 AM
You could install adjustable registers in the coach and close some off to force more air flow to the rear.It is not a good idea to close off any of your registers. The furnace can overheat and possibly damage it.

JohnDar
01-30-2015, 10:38 AM
It is not a good idea to close of any of your registers. The furnace can overheat and possibly damage it.

Hasn't burnt up my furnace and we've had them since 2009.


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Lynn1130
01-30-2015, 10:38 AM
There are a number of threads related to this and by doing a search you may find some "fixes" that some have tried. Some worked and some did not but as stated the run is too long to get much warm air back there. If you have shore power then small heaters will help. If you dry camp like some of us then Big Buddy heaters work well and are safe to use. We use one while elk hunting and it will run you out of the garage on high even down to temps in the teens so low heat works well.

The attached photo is what mine looked like when I went looking for the problem. Too long and too kinked. Fixing it did not help much.

danemayer
01-30-2015, 10:50 AM
If you close off a furnace vent(s), write a note for yourself in case the furnace starts acting funny at some point down the road. If you close a vent, you could raise the temperature in the combustion chamber. That could trip the over-temperature (high limit) switch and shut off the furnace gas flow intermittently. If it trips repeatedly, the switch may open and need to be replaced.

May not happen, but if you start having problems next winter...

JohnDar
01-30-2015, 02:47 PM
There is a big difference between blocking off vents and regulating their output to redirect it where it's needed.


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Hippy
03-22-2015, 12:39 AM
Something to share.
I've too been puzzled why I've had little to no heat in the back of the toy hauler thru the vent. I just took it for granted that it was the longest run from the furnace. Today after having my Cyclone for a little over a year, I took all 3 panels off inside the cargo space to run some wires for an inverter installation. Looking around I saw a small puddle of water around the toilet sewer pipe. Took me a while but I found the leak. Hot water line was loose. That explain why during my last outing (boondocking) the water pump would come on in spurts throughout the night. I tighten it and it stopped. As I continued to look for a path for the wires to be installed this is what I saw ( see-photos below ) Yes, this is the heater vent hose that goes to the rear of the toyhauler. I would recommend all of you with toyhaulers to check yours. It's squeezed between a small partition that separates the water heater and the furnance.

35456354573545835459

OEFVET
03-22-2015, 07:17 AM
After seeing those pictures I will take the panels off and reroute the duct to eliminate the kinks. Ridiculous that Heartland would route it like that from the factory.

Lynn1130
03-22-2015, 10:32 AM
See post 13. These are not one time issues. In the 3010 you can reach the vent duct by removing the bottom storage door next to the fridg. Besides being full of sawdust that is left by construction I be you find the hose is too long and probably kinked or crushed.

ndmac
03-24-2015, 09:01 PM
Here's what I did with mine (Cyclone 4200 has access in the pantry right where the duct/vent go into the garage)
I placed an inline duct booster connected to turn on with the Blower of the furnace and switch in case I want to turn it off.

Depending on what model and combo you get you can control speed with rheostat for just the right flow.
several options:
http://www.basspro.com/Attwood-Turbo-3000-Blower/product/45240/?hvarAID=shopping_googleproductextensions&om_mmc=shopping_googleproductextensions&kpid=45240&kpid=45240
http://www.amazon.com/Inline-Blower-135-CFM-Volt/dp/B001JHC830
http://www.menards.com/main/store/20090519001/items/media/Plumbing/suncourt/Prod_Tech_Spec/Suncourt-DB204.pdf

Another option if you have room to mount.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001ZLQHK?_encoding=UTF8&camp=15041&creative=373501&linkCode=as3&tag=moco00f-20

BLHFUN
03-24-2015, 09:20 PM
Did it work with increased heat? And can you share a little more on the connections to the heaters and the switch

ndmac
03-25-2015, 01:24 PM
This option might work best for most applications simple setup (shown in video) and you an simply mount over floor or wall vent and comes on with airflow.

http://www.suncourt.com/Equalizer.html

Can be easily removed when not in use.
Also another option is cut a vent sized in wall and you can pull heat/AC into an area.

Actually use this at home and did not think about it until just now.

ndmac
03-30-2015, 12:08 PM
Heat to the garage is only half the battle in the cyclone, crawled up under it after temps dropping down in to the 20's to see why the floor was so cold and there is no insulation under there. (That I could see anyhow)

Open with exposed steel engineered joists and open to the elements up to the garage decking?!?!? The bath has corplast sealing it but after that nothing last 8-10'.

Looks like another trip to big box center...LOL