No power until plugged in

The last couple days we have no power to the gen set starter, slides or level up system until plugged in. Battery indicator shows full charge.

When we plug in, you hear the inverter kick in, then everything works except the level up system goes through a full front end drop then comes back up to level the unit out.

We are still having problems with the disc brake pump and Dexter has sent the replacement but i am now wondering if it is not working properly due to inverter change over problems.

I thought i saw something about the res. Fridge and inverters problems but could find anything in my search.

I suggest that you check the 12 volt electrical connections.
Check all the neutral wires attached at the neutral buss. That neutral buss is a metal strip that has a bunch of white wires attached. Normally found behind the battery somewhere.
Check both battery connectors, looking for loose connections or corrosion.
Lastly, check the breaker bank also located near the battery. It has a bunch of red and black wires on it.
Feel along the side of the breakers that have the largest wires. You are feeling for a tiny reset button. Press it.

Peace
Dave

I would also check the level up and see what it says about the battery when you are plugged into shore power. It should be 13.2 plus if the converter is working correctly. You do this by turning the level up system on and then pushing the down arrow once. It should show you the volts.

The last couple days we have no power to the gen set starter, slides or level up system until plugged in. Battery indicator shows full charge.

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Majestic,

I'm guessing the battery indicator shows full charge when you're plugged in, but not when unplugged. What you're describing is a dead battery, or a battery that doesn't have a completed circuit.

The battery is charged by a Power Converter (changes 110V AC to 12V DC). The Power Converter also supplies 12V DC to the fuse box, and also to the buss bar near the battery where there are mini-circuit breakers that power the hydraulics pump and auto-leveling system. (Inverters do the opposite; change 12V DC into 110V AC. You may have one if you have a Residential Frig.)

So if none of your 12V stuff works until you plug in, that tells me that you're not getting power from the battery. Sometimes this is due to a tripped mini-circuit breaker, BUT, if the auto-level system and hydraulics pump work when plugged in, that also tells me that the mini-circuit breaker in between the Power Converter and battery is not tripped.

That leaves 1) bad battery, 2) bad battery connection.

Check the water level in the battery. If you have a volt meter, check the voltage across the battery terminals with the trailer unplugged. Should be around 12.6V DC. Plugged in, it should be around 13.6V DC.

Check that the cables attached to the battery are tight. Check the connection at the cutoff switch to make sure it's tight. Check the connection at the buss bar to make sure it's tight. Trace the battery heavy ground wire back to frame ground to make sure it's tight. Pull on each of these wires to make sure the connector crimps are tight.

Take a look at the wiring diagram in the Residential Refrigerator Guide. Even if you don't have the Residential Refrigerator, most of the diagram will apply to your trailer. You also might want to take a look at the 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide.

Update, i checked all the neutrals, connections, etc as per Dave's suggestions, couldn't find anything wrong. Couldn't find the mini breakers but everything has around 13v.

Level up voltage is correct, when retracting the gear, pump didn't turn off right away, pulled voltage down low enough that it went into low voltage alarm and quit.

Dan, battery is fully charged but did not test before plugging in The res. fridge inverter is what i hear when plugging into shore power. Battery connection are all good, voltage is 13 unplugged, after being plugged in for a few hours. I have tested every connection coming off the buss bar, powers good.

i will leave it off shore power tomorrow and do some more testing when we get back. You might be right on the bad battery as i have just been plugging into shore immediately because i know it doesn't work and then testing after setup. Sometimes the stomach over rules the brain. Let you know, thanks all

Is there a battery disconnect or a master battery circuit breaker?

Yes, there is a master disconnect, which does work. My plan for the day is to leave the unit disconnected, test voltage upon return to see if either we have bad batteries or a large draw killing the batteries. We have found some loose connections through out the unit so if it is not as simply as bad batteries, amp draw testing will be next I guess.

Does anyone know if these units have a battery disconnect when the battery voltage drops below a certain level like vehicles have?

Majestic said:

Does anyone know if these units have a battery disconnect when the battery voltage drops below a certain level like vehicles have?

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When battery voltage drops, things just stop working correctly and eventually don't work at all. The battery cutoff switch doesn't have any intelligence; it's either on or off.

Thanks, helps me diagnose the next step, either bad battery or something is draining them quickly, will try disconnect next

Two loads that are directly wired to the battery are the emergency breakaway switch that activates the brakes if the trailer comes off the tow vehicle, and the generator start. If they have a problem, either can drain the battery even with the cutoff OFF.

Thanks Dan

we have been having disc brake problems since getting the unit home from the dealer a few months ago. Dexter sent me a new actuator to install, which I started this weekend. I started the change out when i noticed 2 wires were the same colour coding. When i checked it with the meter I found the breakaway switch and the ground wires were backwards. This could possible be my power loss. It was only 0.4V but that could be enough over a day to kill the battery. After rewiring, my brake are actually working correctly in the driveway. We will see on the road later this week if the battery and brakes are working correctly.