Leveling

N

NewCyclone

Active Member
Just curious how everyone levels their TT when they pull into a site. I am thinking about purchasing leveling blocks, but not sure how to go about leveling the TT. Do you use a leveling bubble on the king pin box? Any assistance will be appreciated.
 
truknutt

truknutt

Committed Member
Hey NewCyclone,

When out in the middle of nowhere, I use a Level Master (see attached photo) mounted to the Pin Box to the give me an approximate idea of how level I am and after either using my leveling blocks or planks, I use an EZ Level inside the coach just to make sure it's right.

Lately most of our stays have been in CGs with either concrete pads or real level stone parking areas. Here we don't have to fiddle with the blocks.

Hope this helps,
Dave G.

P.S. DW likes (and trusts) the blinking lights on the EZ Level moreso than my old Craftsman bubble level laid across the floor. No respect for the Craftsmen!
 

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  • RV Ez Level.jpg
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Loco

Loco

Well-known member
Not sure what area you go but down south we have some rallies in some wild places that we have to set up. I have two sets of the leveling blocks and always carry a lot of 2X6 cut in lengths of 16" 12" 8" for those rallies out in the paster and there is no level areas. So far I have never got into a area I could not level our unit. I have both of our slide out box behind the wheels full of leveling blocks. I also carry 6- 14" long 6x6's in the bed of the truck for use under the land gear if I have to set up on the slope.
 
L

Luckyhat12

Active Member
I was trying to decide between 2x6 and 2x8 boards today. I am heading to Home Depot in a little bit to go get some. I was thinking I wanted 2x8x8 because that will just fit under all 3 axles.

If you have them cut into lengths, how do you keep them all under all of the tires? we have short boards for my dad's 2 axle trailer but none of those are long enough for me to use with the 3 axles.
 
mrcomer

mrcomer

Past Ohio Chapter Leaders (Founding)
I use a long 2x8 or 2x10 that fits under both tires. I always level from off-door-side to door-side first using my boards then after I unhitch I use the landing gear to level from front to back. I have (2) little bubble level mounted on the front and side of the coach.

My advise is to get a wider board like a 2x10 so that you have a little room to play as you back-up onto them.
 
fivernine

fivernine

Active Member
On retired4fun's air bag design referenced above, I guess I don't know how you use the air bag leveler. Do you roll over top of it and inflate it? If so, wouldn't the support be rather mushy? Just parked on tires and springs can be a bit bouncy when I walk around (or so my wife accuses--I categorically deny it). Seems like if the tires were sitting on balloons, it would be like jogging on a hammock. Is it really as solid as being on blocks?
 
TXBobcat

TXBobcat

Fulltime
I have used 2x8 boards, Bricks, Concrete squares, and the orange lego type blocks.

What I have done is to get a level and place it on the floor of my 5er to level left and right. Then I do the same front to back. Once the trailer is level all around I then place a bubble level on the side near the landing gear switch and one on the front by the switch.

When I pull into a site, I get the 5er about where I want it and then check the front level for side to side. For about every half bubble I use one block (which is about 1" high) and allow about half a bubble if I have 2 slides on one side. If I have to raise one side more that 2 blocks I make a gradual ramp with numerous blocks. This will get my rig level side to side then I just raise or lower the landing gear to level front to back.

I don't use boards because they can absorb water and I don't want to put wet boards in my trailer. I don't like my landing gear pads being in constant moisture. I have seen moisture on a board under the landing gear pad when I picked them up. I don't care for that. But each to their own.

Travel Safe and God Bless
BC
 
Uncle Rog

Uncle Rog

Well-known member
fivernine, I made up a set of the bags, they work like a charm, solid as a rock. In one picture they are used parallel with the tires, I use mine perpendicular as it is much easier to inflate the units and a larger sweet spot to pull / back onto. One note it is handy to have a schrader valve tool in order to deflate them in a hurry.

I have added some cheapie bubble levels on top of the landing gear control panel and on the pin extension.
When I am ready to park I level side to side with the bags and lower the landing gear with the highside a couple of notches longer to adjust for the bag inflation then raise it up and unhook.
We are rarely out on the bubbles................
 
B

billd

Well-known member
I vote for a set of BigFoot hydralic levers. Pull in, chcck wheels, lower the front, unhitch, press auto and 60 seconds later all level.

Bill
 
C

caddojay

Tired and Retired member
Here's another question in the same vein. Our last unit had individual front leg controls. If you needed to tweak the front a bit to one side after leveling, and not much, you could adjust them with the individual legs. Now that we don't have that, how can you adjust the front just a bit. I've tried to stagger the front legs one notch when leveling, but that doesn't seem to work. Am I going about this incorrectly?
 
D

Dusty

Well-known member
Personally, using a 6 inch level, I level the inside of my freezer, when my refridgerator is happily leveled, the rest of the trailer cant complain.
 
J

jandvs

Member
We recently talked to experienced RVers about plastic levelling blocks and were told they cracked after about six months of use. Did not ask if these were the expensive Lynx blocks or the other cheaper brand we've seen. Either way, they're too expensive to have to replace often, even once a year. While treated 2x8's (or 2x10's) are much heavier, they can at least be replaced economically. We now use two 2x8 boards with angled ends, the shorter one being long enough to fit under the tri-axle, the longer one to add height if needed. It's easier to pull forward onto the boards than back onto them and 8" is wide enough to properly support the tires if you get them lined up just right. 10" boards would be easier but weight is always an issue.
 
BluegrassMan

BluegrassMan

Well-known member
Guy's:

I've tried a few things in the past, what I like is using a 2x8 about 5' long, then lagging a 3' on top of it, then a 1 1/2' on top of that. Put them at the one end and it looks like a step. You don't have to have all your tires raised to level, I pull forward, look in the mirror, when the ball is in the middle I stop. Usually it's just my front tire that is raised and the back one is still in the grass. Once in a while the rear tire is starting up on the board, but that's it. Looks like this kind of.
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Granted it's a little heavy, but you only have to fool with one thing, not many things.
 
J

jbeletti

Well-known member
With my '05 Landmark, I did the same as Denny except with 2 treated planks vs. 3. I used round-head, galvanized carriage bolts that were about a quarter inch longer than the thickness of the 2 planks. That way I could give them a tap on the protruding threaded end and pull them out by the head with my hand when I only needed 1 board. I put a 45 degree bevel on the ends of both boards.

Heavy and long but they stowed fine in the bed of my RAM. They were easy to use.

Jim
 
HOSS

HOSS

Active Member
As a newbee I need to know the best and safe way of leveling my 3670RL. I was told by a friend that has been rving for several years that I need the 24" scissor jacks for leveling. So being new to this I ordered four of these plus the Bal Steel Wheel Jacks to go between the tires. After reading this forum and some others I hope I haven't made a bad newbee mistake right off the bat. I would like any and all response to these questions.


HOSS
 
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