Dometic Sealand 310 Delay in Water Flow

danemayer

Well-known member
I wanted to pass this along in case anyone else runs into this problem.

Our Dometic 310 started acting funny a couple of weeks ago. When pressing the foot pedal, the drain would open normally and flush the contents. But the water from the holes in the top of the bowl would not flow for the first 2 - 3 seconds after pressing the pedal. Once water flowed, it would operate normally for about 5 minutes. After that it would fail again.

I replaced the water valve at the base of the toilet but that didn't correct the problem. So I called Dometic's Sealand number at 800-321-9886 and was told that the problem is caused by the valve not being completely seated in the base of the toilet.

To correct the problem, Sealand advised adding two #6 x 5/8 hex-head screws to secure the valve to the toilet. They mailed the screws at no charge. As it happened, the replacement valve came with those screws but since they weren't there on the original valve I hadn't installed them.

I put the screws in and the toilet works normally again.

So a year from now if you have this problem, save yourself the cost of a new valve. Instead, look in the Plumbing sub-forum, under Commode and review this thread. :)
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Dan, any pics as to where these go, or a diagram? I noticed a delay in ours, but didn't think much about it. Are these special screws, or can they be found in a hardware store?


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ICamel

Active Member
X2 - mine just recently exhibited the same delay in water flow. I had replaced the valve this past spring and probably used the original screws.
Dan, any pics as to where these go, or a diagram? I noticed a delay in ours, but didn't think much about it. Are these special screws, or can they be found in a hardware store?


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danemayer

Well-known member
I've attached the instructions for the valve. Step #6 references possible use of the fasteners (screws). The drawing shows how the valve goes in, probably better than a photo that I could take with the toilet installed (no space for the camera).

The drawing doesn't really show where the screws go, but there are slots in the valve assembly (on the replacement anyway - I didn't check the original). You can position the screws by feel and screw them in without seeing the slots. A short handle hex driver will come in handy. The included screws had 1/4" heads.

I don't think there's anything special about the screws. They said they were just two #6 x 5/8 hex-head screws. Or they'll mail you a couple on request.
 

Attachments

  • dometic 310 Toilet water valve.pdf
    123.2 KB · Views: 92

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Thanks Dan, I appreciate it. And someone else will, down the road. Thanks for all you do on the forum!!!


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danemayer

Well-known member
Why do you think the screws made a difference? How does it change how it seats?

The valve assembly is held in place by a plastic latch. Without the screws, there's a little free play allowing the whole valve to move a little when the pedal is depressed. The valve assembly has a spring loaded shaft which is what the pedal presses against. If the assembly the shaft is mounted in moves, the shaft doesn't move right away and the valve doesn't open right away. And it may not open fully. Adding the screws keeps the assembly from moving and the pedal is able to open the valve.

Just my guess anyway.
 

ICamel

Active Member
Dan:
Thank you for responding with the information. I read in the PDF document "Push new water valve into place until latches engage. If necessary, use supplied fasteners to secure water valve in place." and thought that I probably did not use the supplied fasteners. Went out to the 5r, and sure enough it was just put into place with the latches engaged. Off to the hardware store in the morning.
Thank You!

X2 - mine just recently exhibited the same delay in water flow. I had replaced the valve this past spring and probably used the original screws.
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Well, we ended up using #6 3/4" sheet metal screws, since we could not find 5/8". Funny, ours already had one screw in the top but not the bottom. The screw at the top was a 5/8" sheet metal screw (with point).

Jury is still out on if it helps, there still seems to be a bit of a delay.

Btw, DO NOT remove the foot pedal of the toilet in order to get to those screws. It creates a whole nuther set of issues. Don't ask us how we know.


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Flying Dutchman

Virginia Chapter Leaders - Retired
Thanks for all of this information Dan. I have had this issue of 'delayed' water flow for years. Just lived with it thinking it was just normal for this set up. I will get the screws and see if it improves the operation.
 

mlburst1

Well-known member
Dan,

This forum never fails to amaze me - we've been on the road for a couple of months and our toilet suddenly refused to run water when the pedal was depressed - a quick search on the forum found this thread - a quick trip to a local hardware store to buy two #6 x 5/8 hex-head screws - installed them into the water valve and the problem is fixed!

Thank for the info.
 

mobilcastle

Well-known member
I wanted to pass this along in case anyone else runs into this problem.

Our Dometic 310 started acting funny a couple of weeks ago. When pressing the foot pedal, the drain would open normally and flush the contents. But the water from the holes in the top of the bowl would not flow for the first 2 - 3 seconds after pressing the pedal. Once water flowed, it would operate normally for about 5 minutes. After that it would fail again.

I replaced the water valve at the base of the toilet but that didn't correct the problem. So I called Dometic's Sealand number at 800-321-9886 and was told that the problem is caused by the valve not being completely seated in the base of the toilet.

To correct the problem, Sealand advised adding two #6 x 5/8 hex-head screws to secure the valve to the toilet. They mailed the screws at no charge. As it happened, the replacement valve came with those screws but since they weren't there on the original valve I hadn't installed them.

I put the screws in and the toilet works normally again.

So a year from now if you have this problem, save yourself the cost of a new valve. Instead, look in the Plumbing sub-forum, under Commode and review this thread. :)
Thanks for the heads up!!
Dan:
Thank you for responding with the information. I read in the PDF document "Push new water valve into place until latches engage. If necessary, use supplied fasteners to secure water valve in place." and thought that I probably did not use the supplied fasteners. Went out to the 5r, and sure enough it was just put into place with the latches engaged. Off to the hardware store in the morning.
Thank You!

Picture of screws next to a nickel. View attachment 31541

Notice there is virtually no taper and no point.
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
We had one screw, but not two. Once we added the second screw, it seemed to get better, but now it's getting worse. Should we replace the valve?


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mobilcastle

Well-known member
I looked at mine and it has one screw. I don't have problem yet. I will keep an eye on it. I am not sure why my last post copied so much.
Travel Tiger
I would call Dometic first then replace if needed. Good luck.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
We had one screw, but not two. Once we added the second screw, it seemed to get better, but now it's getting worse. Should we replace the valve?


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Erika,

Tough call. Look at the price of the valve vs. price of a new toilet. I put in a new valve and until I added the screws, it didn't help. Then I looked at the vacuum breaker - around the same price as the valve. Then I looked at the price of a new toilet. If I had replaced both the valve and vacuum breaker, I'd have been halfway to the price of a new toilet. That's why I called Sealand for advice.
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Erika,

Tough call. Look at the price of the valve vs. price of a new toilet. I put in a new valve and until I added the screws, it didn't help. Then I looked at the vacuum breaker - around the same price as the valve. Then I looked at the price of a new toilet. If I had replaced both the valve and vacuum breaker, I'd have been halfway to the price of a new toilet. That's why I called Sealand for advice.

Our slow water may be water quality related. Tony says he's going to try to clean the screen at the inlet with CLR, said there was a little buildup when he had it apart before. Will report back what we find.



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bowhunt73

Active Member
Thanks Dan!!!!!!!!!!!! I started researching this topic today and 10 seconds after signing into the site.....here it is. I have developed the same exact issue this year. Yep, same here I was thinking the valve also. This item is on my list to complete before winter storage. I'm off to the hardware store tonight. I'll post results.

Syptoms:
- After use toilet I would notice water coming out of the holes right after use (not really lining up to your syptoms). Maybe this is normal if movement in the unit.
- Next use after some time push the pedel down and no water out of the holes for 2-3 seconds. (same as you).

Randall
 
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