How do I?

MonsterRide

Member
Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove these screws? The heads broke off and the studs are still in the wall. FYI, these are my ladder screws.

Re: 2013 Cyclone 3110.


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Jim.Allison

Well-known member
I cant see clearly, but I would tend to remove the whole ladder assembly and and get down to the lowest level of the repair. When you remove that piece you might be able to get a grip on the screw with a vice grip, if not then perhaps you might be successful in doing as dbbls59 said; drill it out and put a larger screw in it. But I would replace all the screws, if these failed so will the rest. Lowes has stainless steel screws, I think those would be good for this application.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to remove these screws? The heads broke off and the studs are still in the wall. FYI, these are my ladder screws.

Re: 2013 Cyclone 3110.


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JanAndBill

Well-known member
I'd leave the bracket on as a guide while drilling. The screws are hardened so go to the hardware store or auto parts store and get a "cobalt" bit, and spiral screw extractor like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_445713-4824...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo= sized accordingly.

This should give you and idea of the size to use. http://www.irwin.com/uploads/documents/18_screw_extractor_selection_guide.pdf Don't try to save money with a cheap bit or screw extractor it isn't worth it.

Go slowly when drilling and us a small center punch to make a starting dimple as close to the center of the screw as possible. Tap the screw extractor in till it bites, spray WD40 on the screw and go off and leave it for an hour or so. When you come back you should be able to back the screw out with the extractor.
 

happykraut

Well-known member
I'd leave the bracket on as a guide while drilling. The screws are hardened so go to the hardware store or auto parts store and get a "cobalt" bit, and spiral screw extractor like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_445713-4824...L=?Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo= sized accordingly.

This should give you and idea of the size to use. http://www.irwin.com/uploads/documents/18_screw_extractor_selection_guide.pdf Don't try to save money with a cheap bit or screw extractor it isn't worth it.

Go slowly when drilling and us a small center punch to make a starting dimple as close to the center of the screw as possible. Tap the screw extractor in till it bites, spray WD40 on the screw and go off and leave it for an hour or so. When you come back you should be able to back the screw out with the extractor.
I agree with Jan & Bill. Screw extractor also called an Easy Out is the way to go.
 

porthole

Retired
If those are the screws I think they are, you won't find a screw extractor small enough.

If it was mine, I would either drill out the screw or just punch it through. If it is actually in a piece of the aluminum framing, drill it out, small bit and keep going up. Odds are once you get close to the screw size it will stick to the bit and spin out in the bit. It is not hardened, so you will not need special bits.

Then I would check a few more for rust. Any rust, replace them all.
 

MonsterRide

Member
Thanks everyone. I'll try to drill them out, then replace all of them with slightly larger and longer galvanized screw. Hopefully this will take care of the issue.


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JanAndBill

Well-known member
Thanks everyone. I'll try to drill them out, then replace all of them with slightly larger and longer galvanized screw. Hopefully this will take care of the issue.


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I would find it hard to believe they used less than a #10 screw, which is slightly larger than 3/16, which is the smallest tap Irwin makes. So it shouldn't be an issue to remove the old one. Regardless of if you go back with the same size or larger, DO NOT use galvanized. It reacts with dissimilar metals. Go with stainless. Would also not advise going longer.
 
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