Cornices falling down with the wooden blinds

Kandy

Member
Have a 2011 Landmark Augusta. The Cornices in the picture window are falling out. The butterfly screws have almost unscrewed themselves and about to fall out of the ceiling. The wooden blinds are also attached to the cornices so I guess when they fall out they all fall out. I have tried to unscrew the bolts but I cannot get my hand up in there to replace the old screws or to tighten them. Do I need to remove the cornices and the blinds? Are they bolted together? I'm afraid I'll get this stuff down and not be able to get it back up.....
Does anyone know where or how to get to the screws with butterfly bolts that hold the cornice and blinds up?
EEK!
 
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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Your 2011 Augusta is almost identical to my 2009 BH3670. Are you certain the blinds are attached to the top valence and not screwed to the wall just above the window? My day/night shades were screwed to the wall. When I removed them to install vertical blinds back there, I first had to remove the screws that held the side valences to the wall and the top valence, then the screws that held the top valence to the underside of the cabinets above. Then I could remove the screws for the blinds.

But, for your dilemma, there is 1" x 1" framing under the cabinet bottom along the rear wall. You might be able to drive some screws through the top valence and into the framing. Run the screws at a slight angle no more than an inch from the wall. Use an 1 1/4" wood screw.

I know there is small framing in there because I used it to mount my rebuilt top valences for the rear windows and the ones in the main slide to accommodate the vertical blinds.

An alternative to secure it would be to use some longer machine screws, and drill holes straight up and through the cabinet bottoms and through the floor of the cabinet. With washers and nuts, you could then secure it. I used this method to mount a towel rod under the cabinet above our toilet. The screws don't have to be large diameter, something like a #8 or even a #6 would do, just use a large diameter washer for better support.

It's entirely possible that when they mounted the top that they just ran the screws into the thin plywood underside skin of the cabinetry and missed the frame. A bit too much torque and it's destined to work loose.

Sorry for the long winded detail, but I don't know what your "skills" are.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
I'm not exactly sure about your Landmark, but I can tell you about my Bighorn which may be similar.
You will need a #2 square drive bit. I use one that is about 6 inches long.
Look in the material that is covering the valance and lambrican (if you have that part). Screws are hidden in there somewhere.
You can gently pull on those parts to see where they are tight to the wall. That's where the screws are.
Having the 6 inch length driver might allow you to get up in there to tighten the screws without removing anything.

Peace
Dave
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
And like Dave says, a #2 square drive bit with an extension will make it a lot easier to get at the screws. If using a drill/driver, set it to a lower drive setting so you don't strip the holes when running the screws in.
 

Jim.Allison

Well-known member
I re-installed correctly using the same technique they used when they built it. I just did a much better job. Its almost like I cared....LOL. I have not had problem since. Good luck and we feel your pain
 
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