towing with a lift kit
- Thread starter pete379
- Start date
jimtoo
Moderator
Hi pete379,
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.
Hopefully some of our other members will jump in soon with info for you. Meanwhile enjoy the forum, look around, check out the Heartland Owners Club and join us at a rally when you can.
Jim M
Moved thread to better area also.
Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.
Hopefully some of our other members will jump in soon with info for you. Meanwhile enjoy the forum, look around, check out the Heartland Owners Club and join us at a rally when you can.
Jim M
Moved thread to better area also.
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
I have he Ram 2500 CTD 4X4 and pull an Elkridge E289. My Ram has a lifted appearance in stock form. The problems you encounter are in trying to create a level towing package. I had them install the 5th airborne PB at it's highest position and when I hooked up, the rear tires were handling most of the load. I then had them install the correct track alignment system which it was prepped for and that lifts the trailer an additional 2". Still not level. I then had to upgrade to 16" wheels and taller tires to get an additional 2 1/2 inch of lift to almost sit level. Forget about the bed rails. No problem. The low position on my Curt Q16 was right for my truck. The problem is you'll be dragging the rear of our rig on the ground. Not sure of your rig but you need to be concerned with a level tow. I wouldn't pull off of the lot with mine hooked up the 1st time. Looked like the front tires were almost off of the ground.
Being rather new at this, I used the forum here for advice. If you lift the truck, you have to lift the rig also for an even tow. At what point it starts to get dangerous, I don't know, and that would be my concern. That's a lot of weight going down the road so keep that in mind. Maybe others here that know more can add to this. On the other hand, if you have the money, I'm sure it could be modified to be safe. Good luck and don't overload the rear tires.
Wow, I just noticed the weight of that thing. I would like to point out DocFather's post just below and ask you to look at this from the functionality point and forget about the warranty issue. You need to be concerned with your safety and the safety of others on the road.
Good luck with your endeavor.
Being rather new at this, I used the forum here for advice. If you lift the truck, you have to lift the rig also for an even tow. At what point it starts to get dangerous, I don't know, and that would be my concern. That's a lot of weight going down the road so keep that in mind. Maybe others here that know more can add to this. On the other hand, if you have the money, I'm sure it could be modified to be safe. Good luck and don't overload the rear tires.
Wow, I just noticed the weight of that thing. I would like to point out DocFather's post just below and ask you to look at this from the functionality point and forget about the warranty issue. You need to be concerned with your safety and the safety of others on the road.
Good luck with your endeavor.
johnpsz
Well-known member
I tow with a lifted truck, 6" on an 07 Ram, I actually stepped down to 35" tires from 37". The truck towed fine with that combo, however getting the trailer to ride level is almost impossible as others mentioned. I'm still not quite used to the look since I've had 37" tires on it for about 6 years, but can truly attest to the better fuel mileage towing with the smaller tires. Good luck with your choice, just giving my experience.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
BLHFUN
Well-known member
Depends on the lift, Rim/tires and the length of the trailer. I personally like the lifted dually look, providing all the other aspects match the fit for both the TV and the trailer. This is a 4 inch lifted dually with 22's, low profile nittos. I gained 3 inches at the tailgate from a stock 350 and Using the lowest setting of my companion hitch, I still have 11 inches between the bed rail and the TH. it's not for everyone, but I like it. with
this set up, I'm almost level from end to end and not creating stress on my rear trailer tires. 
JanAndBill
Well-known member
One thing I've not seen mentioned is the drive line geometry with a lift kit. Granted we were pulling much heavier loads with our over the road trucks, but the operating angle definitely had a bearing on the longevity of the truck's universal joints. I can't help but think that increasing the operating angle by installing a lift kit would negatively impact the universal joints especially when towing a heavy load.
johnpsz
Well-known member
I hate to jump onto my soapbox, but feel there is a lot of fear, misinformation, or lack of knowledge, that may be influencing some of the responses.
a) U-joint and drive line angle are usually (if you buy the right kits) adjusted and sometimes create better angles then those from the factory
b) The corrected steering geometry and longer control arms have better effect on handling and less jarring ride than the factory suspension
c) New springs with custom or even progressive spring rates are available as well as adjustable, or just pain better, shocks than offered by the factory
d) Newer kits allow for better joints (most of the time rebuildable, or at least poly vs. factory rubber) and stronger material
e) The OP never gave details about the type of kit they were looking into, and at the end of the day it is their responsibility to take all the details into consideration and buy the kit right for the intended use. E. G. you wouldn't buy a desert race kit of you were primarily towing or street driving.
I agree with all the concerns, however a lot of those concerns have been addressed by some of the better lift kit manufacturers over the years. If the OP plans to just slap on some generic lift blocks and spring spacers, then heck no I wouldn't recommend towing with that truck, but anyone that does that wouldn't even like driving their truck with how bad it will feel. A truly engineered lift kit, designed for a specific truck and use that takes driveline angle (both front and rear), steering geometry, higher grade components than stock, and ride comfort and control into consideration, I wouldn't hesitate to tow with it as I currently do... Heck, even my father-in-law who sometimes co-drives with me on a couple family trips thinks my truck is a better towing vehicle than anything he has driven.
I have gone cross country (towing multiple trailers) 4 different times, it has taken some trial and error to see and feel what works best for my comfort, and mine is a completely custom lift not just and off the shelf kit. Yes, it started with off the shelf components, then off the shelf components from other manufacturers put into the mix, then over time when I didn't like something, I upgraded it for the intended purpose that I use the truck for.
The following is not a guide, just shows my path/experience:
1) Started with an off the shelf short arm (read cheaper end of the spectrum) BDS 6" lift and 37" tires --- Looked great but wasn't happy with the driving and too bouncy/soft in the rear when towing
2) Added an aftermarket steering box and upgraded the steering component for a better geometry, and now my truck has a better turning radius than any other truck I've driven, despite the lift and larger tires.
3) Added airbags to the rear to help when towing, needed to get spacer blocks for them to fit as intended.
4) Changed shocks about 4 times till I found ones that helped ride the way I wanted and maintained comfort, the last setup I have custom upper shock mounts built that used eye mounted shock (similar to most rear shock setups) rather than the factory screw top/sandwiched rubber bushing combo.
5) Upgraded the front springs, but they are a little too hard and might change them again, going with a custom progressive rate
6) I have recently, last fall, downsized my tires to 35" but only in the effort to get a more level towing configuration with the 5er
Still on my to-do list --- Longer arms in the front, to better help front driveline geometry/angle, it isn't a problem now since I have the manual locking hubs and no longer feel the vibration on the highway, but the long arms will help that as well as will be less jarring on bumps. The shorter arms jam the arms into the chassis just due their angle and an upward force of a bump goes up the arm more than up into the spring, longer arms allows the spring to absorb the bumps more than the arm/chassis joint.
So as my truck currently sits now:
6" lift
35" tires
Air bags
09+ front steering setup
Borgeson steering box
Steering box support
Bilstein shocks
Custom from shock mount for eye style upper shock mounting
Upgraded driveline U-joints
Manually locking hubs with rebuildable bearings
pics can be seen here: most are with the 37" tires one with the 35" tires
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/50023-Show-off-your-towing-rig!?p=401121&viewfull=1#post401121
Now, my final comment... I'm thinking about upgrading trucks at some point, since the kids are getting bigger the mega cab might be in our future. But, I will never get near what I have put into my truck back out of it, and it has been tuned to my liking over the past 6-7 years of owning it. I made it the perfect truck for me, not for trade-in value or resale. My biggest fear about getting another truck is that I won't like it as much as this one, only second to that is that I have spent more on this one than a newer one costs, but trade-in value is half, lol... Just keep that in mind when thinking about upgrades...
a) U-joint and drive line angle are usually (if you buy the right kits) adjusted and sometimes create better angles then those from the factory
b) The corrected steering geometry and longer control arms have better effect on handling and less jarring ride than the factory suspension
c) New springs with custom or even progressive spring rates are available as well as adjustable, or just pain better, shocks than offered by the factory
d) Newer kits allow for better joints (most of the time rebuildable, or at least poly vs. factory rubber) and stronger material
e) The OP never gave details about the type of kit they were looking into, and at the end of the day it is their responsibility to take all the details into consideration and buy the kit right for the intended use. E. G. you wouldn't buy a desert race kit of you were primarily towing or street driving.
I agree with all the concerns, however a lot of those concerns have been addressed by some of the better lift kit manufacturers over the years. If the OP plans to just slap on some generic lift blocks and spring spacers, then heck no I wouldn't recommend towing with that truck, but anyone that does that wouldn't even like driving their truck with how bad it will feel. A truly engineered lift kit, designed for a specific truck and use that takes driveline angle (both front and rear), steering geometry, higher grade components than stock, and ride comfort and control into consideration, I wouldn't hesitate to tow with it as I currently do... Heck, even my father-in-law who sometimes co-drives with me on a couple family trips thinks my truck is a better towing vehicle than anything he has driven.
I have gone cross country (towing multiple trailers) 4 different times, it has taken some trial and error to see and feel what works best for my comfort, and mine is a completely custom lift not just and off the shelf kit. Yes, it started with off the shelf components, then off the shelf components from other manufacturers put into the mix, then over time when I didn't like something, I upgraded it for the intended purpose that I use the truck for.
The following is not a guide, just shows my path/experience:
1) Started with an off the shelf short arm (read cheaper end of the spectrum) BDS 6" lift and 37" tires --- Looked great but wasn't happy with the driving and too bouncy/soft in the rear when towing
2) Added an aftermarket steering box and upgraded the steering component for a better geometry, and now my truck has a better turning radius than any other truck I've driven, despite the lift and larger tires.
3) Added airbags to the rear to help when towing, needed to get spacer blocks for them to fit as intended.
4) Changed shocks about 4 times till I found ones that helped ride the way I wanted and maintained comfort, the last setup I have custom upper shock mounts built that used eye mounted shock (similar to most rear shock setups) rather than the factory screw top/sandwiched rubber bushing combo.
5) Upgraded the front springs, but they are a little too hard and might change them again, going with a custom progressive rate
6) I have recently, last fall, downsized my tires to 35" but only in the effort to get a more level towing configuration with the 5er
Still on my to-do list --- Longer arms in the front, to better help front driveline geometry/angle, it isn't a problem now since I have the manual locking hubs and no longer feel the vibration on the highway, but the long arms will help that as well as will be less jarring on bumps. The shorter arms jam the arms into the chassis just due their angle and an upward force of a bump goes up the arm more than up into the spring, longer arms allows the spring to absorb the bumps more than the arm/chassis joint.
So as my truck currently sits now:
6" lift
35" tires
Air bags
09+ front steering setup
Borgeson steering box
Steering box support
Bilstein shocks
Custom from shock mount for eye style upper shock mounting
Upgraded driveline U-joints
Manually locking hubs with rebuildable bearings
pics can be seen here: most are with the 37" tires one with the 35" tires
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/50023-Show-off-your-towing-rig!?p=401121&viewfull=1#post401121
Now, my final comment... I'm thinking about upgrading trucks at some point, since the kids are getting bigger the mega cab might be in our future. But, I will never get near what I have put into my truck back out of it, and it has been tuned to my liking over the past 6-7 years of owning it. I made it the perfect truck for me, not for trade-in value or resale. My biggest fear about getting another truck is that I won't like it as much as this one, only second to that is that I have spent more on this one than a newer one costs, but trade-in value is half, lol... Just keep that in mind when thinking about upgrades...
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
My 2500 ram 4X4 pulls an elkridge extreme ight also. It sat like the pics you posted with the tail down. I worked on the trailer to level the ride. I'm sure the truck can be lifted safely like I said in my other post. My concern was with the nose high attitude of the RV. If you are towing one of the heavywdeights, you would have to level the rig to save the load on the rear tires.
'Lil Guy'
Well-known member
Now that's what I'm talking about. Watch those underpasses.
jeffdee
Well-known member
LOL. Where do you stow the airport tarmac stairs?
DW_Gray
Well-known member
I know of one safe option for lifted truck owners and it is being successfully used. These lifted truck owners use the Automated Safety Hitch System. Here is a review on it:
http://goo.gl/0ymBcQ
http://goo.gl/0ymBcQ
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