Plumbing Refrigerator Ice Maker Ahead Of Water Softener

I recently purchased a canister type water softener for the rig. We don't drink tap water in the trailer anyway, so that is not an issue. However, we do use the ice that is made in the refer.

Has anyone plumbed this in a neat and tidy fashion, so that the ice maker is ahead of the softener? Does anyone have a diagram they could share on how they set this up?

I would prefer not to have to have another hose outside running to the ice maker. Thanks a bunch, Trace

Why do you want the ice maker in before of the softener?
It does not add salt to the water.
The salt is only used for regeneration.

Peace
Dave

cookie said:

Why do you want the ice maker in before of the softener?
It does not add salt to the water.
The salt is only used for regeneration.

Peace
Dave

Click to expand...

Dave,
Thanks for the comment.
I always thought that softened water would have a salty taste.
Maybe I'm wrong. I'll do some research. Trace

We have used a softener in our house for 40 years. No salty taste.
Oh, and we have a built in ice maker and softener in the RV.

Peace
Dave

cookie said:

Why do you want the ice maker in before of the softener?
It does not add salt to the water.
The salt is only used for regeneration.

Peace
Dave

Click to expand...

Dave is correct. We have had a softener at home for 25 yrs plumbed to soften the home's total water supply. We drink, cook, make ice using the softened water. If we didn't the water has a metallic taste and leaves rings on fixtures. IMO if feel you need soft water for other uses you ought to soften all the water rather than make ice with the untreated source water. The salt is a "cleaner" for the softener media during regeneration. When the softener regenerates a series of valves engage so there is no cross contamination during the regen process therefore no salt taste.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

We too have had softened water at home, but I plumbed the cold water to the kitchen ahead of the softener since, at least in that house, the water had a nice mineral content that was a pain for staining, but really good tasting. For a RV that visits unknown water sources, I think the softener belongs ahead of all domestic water used. I would, however, put it behind the water filters.

There is no salt taste with soft water and the amount of salt left is so small as to be totally insignificant but if someone still does not like the idea of salt use potassium chloride instead of salt as the media. It is sold in most places that sell salt for softeners. It is more expensive but is a valid substitute.

Okay great. Thanks for the replies. You just saved me some work. Trace

A water softener replaces Magnesium and Calcium ions in the hard water with Sodium ions. The Ca and Mg ions "bind" to the resin catalyst in the softener; regeneration with NaCl removes the Ca and Mg and replaces with Na; the Cl- ion flushes with the Ca and Mg on regeneration.

Some people with Sodium sensitivity (i.e. too much Na ions in blood) have switched to Potassium Cloride (KCl) regenerated water softeners.

More importantly, all the other crap in the water (bicarbonates, other metal ions, etc) is still in the water.

I chose to remove the ice maker and I use distilled or Reverse Osmosis (RO) water in old fashioned ice cube trays, or my portable ice maker.

Brian

brianharrison said:

A water softener replaces Magnesium and Calcium ions in the hard water with Sodium ions. The Ca and Mg ions "bind" to the resin catalyst in the softener; regeneration with NaCl removes the Ca and Mg and replaces with Na; the Cl- ion flushes with the Ca and Mg on regeneration.

Some people with Sodium sensitivity (i.e. too much Na ions in blood) have switched to Potassium Cloride (KCl) regenerated water softeners.

More importantly, all the other crap in the water (bicarbonates, other metal ions, etc) is still in the water.

I chose to remove the ice maker and I use distilled or Reverse Osmosis (RO) water in old fashioned ice cube trays, or my portable ice maker.

Brian

Click to expand...

Yes, I'm confused. If you Google the subject of drinking softened water, there are all kinds of so called experts that say the process pulls other metals, etc. from plumbing and then you ingest them.
I realize a little ice would be way less than constantly drinking the water. Trace

TandT said:

Yes, I'm confused. If you Google the subject of drinking softened water, there are all kinds of so called experts that say the process pulls other metals, etc. from plumbing and then you ingest them.
I realize a little ice would be way less than constantly drinking the water. Trace

Click to expand...

No, in my opinion softened water does not pull metals from plumbing etc.

The other metal ions are found naturally in the drinking water and just pass through the softener - the drinking water in a park is highly regulated by local jurisdictions and you can be sure it meets American Drinking Water standards. No worries there, unless the park is lax on their monitoring and testing.

Sorry to add confusion.

Brian

We purchased a water softener system and love it. We put a 20 micron filter prior to the softener tank to remove large particles the a 5 micron filter between the tank and rig. Both filter have different functions and need replacement at different intervals, if desired. For ease, we place the 20 micron filter and rejuvenate the system at the first of the month. The 5 micron filter we replace on a quarterly basis. The 5 micron does NOT remove the salt. There are filter on-line that say they do but it's an unnecessary item and expense. A good flush after rejuvenation does the trick. I went ahead and put on a duel water valve on the exit side of the 5 micron so both the rig and black tack receive soft water. Some ask why soften the black water tank....just trying to keep ALL pluming in good condition...I don't want a calcium buildup on the flush out wand.

nascardavis said:

We purchased a water softener system and love it. We put a 20 micron filter prior to the softener tank to remove large particles the a 5 micron filter between the tank and rig. Both filter have different functions and need replacement at different intervals, if desired. For ease, we place the 20 micron filter and rejuvenate the system at the first of the month. The 5 micron filter we replace on a quarterly basis. The 5 micron does NOT remove the salt. There are filter on-line that say they do but it's an unnecessary item and expense. A good flush after rejuvenation does the trick. I went ahead and put on a duel water valve on the exit side of the 5 micron so both the rig and black tack receive soft water. Some ask why soften the black water tank....just trying to keep ALL pluming in good condition...I don't want a calcium buildup on the flush out wand.

Click to expand...

5 microns is quite big. We use 2 filters. First a 1 micon sediment filter, then a .5 micron carbon filter. A single sediment filter lasted all season. We expected to go through two. Your water softener will work better if you put it after the final filter. We have a 4way manifold after both filters tha supplies black flush and our sewer system pump as well as domestic water. There are anti-backflow valves on each output of the manifold.

Thanks Bob, I can switch over real quick. Just one thing...Where do buy your filters? On another subject is your ford the 6.7 and if so how mileage?

nascardavis said:

Thanks Bob, I can switch over real quick. Just one thing...Where do buy your filters? On another subject is your ford the 6.7 and if so how mileage?

Click to expand...

We are happy with the filters we got from rvwaterfilterstore.com. We bought dual canisters (https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/WCStandardCanisters.htm) and bought the 1 micron sediment filters (you can get 2 in the pack) and a .5 micron carbon filter that gets rid of heavy metal and microbes. We also bought a high flow pressure regulator (Watts 4-5 gpm with gauge). The pressure regulator is installed after the filters. That way it never clogs. Where you put the water softener depends on its ability to handle high water pressure. If you put it before the regulator, you will get better performance. But, if it can't handle 100 -125psi, then it needs to go after. It should always go after the water filters to avoid contamination. The filters can handle any normal water pressure. We also bought high flow hose components. Most of the hose stuff will restrict your flow and give the typical RV dribble. This (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006U66AM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is the manifold we use. We also got high flow fittings (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015AUY3W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). These are quick connects that make hookup a snap. That way, setup only takes a couple of minutes. We put the filters and the pressure reducer in a plastic bin. We cut holes in the sides for the input and output hose. The manifold sits on the ground. This is very easy to do and works well for us. We also bought premium 5/8 water hose designed for potable water.

We have the 6.7 diesel and we get about 18mpg unloaded (my wife uses it as a daily driver and has a lead foot). When we tow, we get an average of 11.5 mpg. Given the weight of our rig, that's pretty good.