REPAIRED: Loose Commode, rocks back and forth and side to side

jbeletti

Well-known member
ISSUE:
Our toilet was "loose". You could rock it front-to-back and side-to-side. I removed the toilet to find the "closet flange" was broken on each side where the threaded studs came through it.
IMAG2190_1.jpg

CAUSE:
We have a separate commode room. Ahead of the commode is a counter with a small sink. Below the counter, on the front wall, I mounted the toilet paper holder. My "guess" is that 1.5 years of reaching that far forward to access the toilet paper, stressed and finally cracked the plastic closet flange.

REPAIR OPTIONS:
I suppose the best and most proper repair would have been to replace the closet flange. Doing so at a campground would take me several hours as I'd have to empty the storage bay, remove the entire utility wall, cut a section of 3" sewer pipe, remove the closet flange, 45 degree angle, a section of the 3" drain pipe, add new, then reinstall the commode.

I'm supposed to be working on the Goshen rally right now and I don't want to lose a half day.

Another option is to mend what I have.

REPAIR:
As we are staying in the Dallas, TX area for 2 days, I asked my good friend and forum moderator, Terry Hershberger to take a look at it. He and I went to Lowes and there, we found some repair/mending kits. We bought all 3 types. One of them turned out to be the best. Simply put, we left the closet flange in place and overlaid a metal ring and screwed it to the floor. Viola!
Superior Tool Super Ring Toilet Repair - Item 22062 - Model 21015 b.jpgIMAG2195.jpg


The only issue is the metal mending ring is about 3/32" thick. This meant that after the repair was done, commode reinstalled and tested, the commode still rocked - this time because it was lifted 3/32" off the floor. So for now, I've used some synthetic shims and it's rock solid. Later, I'll look for the right material to use for a full-perimeter shim, remove the commode, insert said material, reinstall commode and run a bead of almond silicone rubber around the commode base.
 
Last edited:

sengli

Well-known member
FYI You could go to a local hobby store, and purchase small sheets of 3/32 plywood. Cut a larger more form fitting shim, for permanent fix. I use alot of this in my radio control hobby, and the plywood comes in either 3 or 5 ply. Coated with epoxy, and it would be waterproof.
 
I just out and bought the repair flange. I will work on it tomorrow. One question, I have a Bighorn 3875 2014. It is the downstairs toilet that has the problem,is there supposed to be an elbow at the bottom of the flange drainpipe? I can see right into the tank.
 

Birchwood

Well-known member
Yea I have been dealing with a slightly loose commode for years.I think it has to do with the RV experience!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I just out and bought the repair flange. I will work on it tomorrow. One question, I have a Bighorn 3875 2014. It is the downstairs toilet that has the problem,is there supposed to be an elbow at the bottom of the flange drainpipe? I can see right into the tank.
Probably better to not have an elbow that could make it harder to empty the commode into the tank. Some people who have elbows and turns have found it pretty easy to develop clogs in between commode and tank.
 

TedS

Well-known member
Jim, go back to Lowes and get non-shrink grout. Leaving the toilet in place, force the grout into the space under the toilet. Let the grout set and dry. It makes a solid filler between the toilet and floor.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Jim, go back to Lowes and get non-shrink grout. Leaving the toilet in place, force the grout into the space under the toilet. Let the grout set and dry. It makes a solid filler between the toilet and floor.

HI Ted - I'm turning the coach in tomorrow and will let the factory take care of it :) Thanks for the idea though as it may help others.
 
Top