What kind of caulk should I use that connects the rubber roof to the front cap?

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csavory

Member

• Mar 16, 2015

• #1

I was recently up on the roof applying some dicor to the vents that needed some touchup. I noticed that the caulk on the front (and back) of roof where the rubber meets the front cap and rear door is cracking. I'm thinking I should remove the old caulk and reapply. How do I remove the old stuff? Just use a screwdriver? What kind of caulk should I put down to replace it? Any other special things to know? I'm not much of a handy guy, so this will be my first major caulk job.

 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member

• Mar 16, 2015

• #2

Dicor self-leveling caulk is recommended for all horizontal roof surfaces. It is neither required or recommended that you try to remove the old caulk. Just clean it before hand. You can smooth it out with a plastic paint spatula, if you like. Do not use it on vertical surfaces, though, since it will sag and run.

 

olcoon

Well-known member

• Mar 16, 2015

• #3

I agree with John, they say that you should ONLY use dicor on the "rubber" roof, and not to remove the old caulk, clean it with Dawn dishwashing soap & apply the new on top of the old.

 

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csavory

Member

• Mar 17, 2015

• #4

Thank you for the replies. If I have some cracking caulk on the outside vertical walls is that just outdoor window silicone that I buy at a hardware store?

 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member

• Mar 17, 2015

• #5

Dicor also has a non-leveling caulk for vertical use. There are other brands, as well. The one I've used was a BOSS 378. Sikaflex is another brand that's been discussed on the forums. If you search the forums for caulking topics, you may find additional brands discussed.

 

porthole

Retired

• Mar 17, 2015

• #6

An alternative of which many of us have done is to just clean the area and apply 4" or 6" Dicor Eternabond tape over the seam - set it and forget it.

 

olcoon

Well-known member

• Mar 17, 2015

• #7

I've also used the Boss 378. Before I started using it, I got some stuff at the hardware store/Walmart, and when it came time to re-caulk, it was a real bear to remove before re-caulking. When re-calling non roof areas the old caulk should be removed & the area cleaned & allowed to dry before re-caulking. I don't remember who, but someone on here uses the blue painting tape & tapes around the area to be re-caulked to make it look better. Also, a trick I recently learned is to moisten your finger or tool you use to smooth the caulk so it doesn't stick to your finger/tool.

 

Silverado23

Iowa Chapter Leaders

• Mar 17, 2015

• #8

Both blue painters tape and moisture on tool/finger for smoothing caulk work well. Also keep the tip opening as small as possible to cover the area you need. The tape makes cleanup a breeze. remove the tape while caulk is still wet making sure the caulk has sealed to the surface.

 

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whp4262

Well-known member

• Mar 17, 2015

• #9

I agree with JohnDar and olcoon on the roof caulking. It's hard to remove and if you're not real careful you can slice or tear the roof. When removing caulking around a window etc. I've had pretty good luck with an X-Acto knife and 1/2" chisel blade.


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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member

• Mar 17, 2015

• #10

For removing caulk around the windows and the vertical trim, I use a plastic putty knife or a flexible steel one that I've rounded the corners off of. Use a dry microfiber cloth to rub off any residual.


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