how to change anode rod in 3055RL?

ontheroad

Member
We are having a smell from our hot water and think we may need to change the anode rod. we have read the manual and want to make sure that we just unscrew the old rod to drain the tank and replace it with the new. any comments will be appreciated.
2006 Bighorn 3055RL
 

Retyred

Active Member
Did you park your unit without draining the water tank? You could end up with a rotten egg odor. Camping World has the anode rods at the parts counter.
Retyred
 

trdeal

Past North Carolina Chapter Leader
First turn off the power to the water heater then before you unscrew the old rod be sure to let the water pressure off the tank by pulling up on the lever on the pressure relief valve. I did not do this my first time and the anode rod shot out like a rocket.Glad I wasn't standing in front of it.
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Terry gave you some good advice about relieving the pressure. You can also do it by opening a faucet after turning off your water to the RV and also your water pump. Here is another thread that talks about removing the Anode rod. Removing Anode Rod Here is the link for the Anode Rod for the Suburban Hot Water Heater New Anode I would also recommend flushing out the tank after you remove the old Anode Rod. This tool makes it very easy: Flushing Tool

Hope this solves your problem,

John
 

Forrest Fetherolf

Senior Member
Use 1-1/16 socket, short extension, and about 18" breaker bar to loosen the anode rod. I don't think the anode rod has anything to do with smell, only mineral build up. The smell is probably stagnant water that has started to smell. Drain and flush the fresh water tank and water heater. There are additives you can buy for the fresh water tank.
 

ontheroad

Member
Thanks everyone for your comments, we got the anode rod changed and all is well, no more smell. We will change it much more often from now on.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
I Goggled this and found a fair amount of posts on the Internet about smelly hot water. This article on the website for the City of Chanhassen, MN has a nice xplanation for their residents. It may also be applicable to some RVs if they have magnesium anode rods.

Smelly Water
Smelly water, or rotten egg odor, is hydrogen sulfide gas that is present in the water. It is not usually harmful at the low concentration that occurs in a household water system. The City maintains a chlorine residual throughout the system that eliminates this smell, but if water sits in any place too long (dead-end lines, unoccupied houses, new developments with only a few homes), the chlorine dissipates and results in the smell. Water heaters with a magnesium anode rode are another common cause of this odor, especially in houses where little water is used.

To eliminate smelly water caused by your hot water heater, turn your hot water heater up to high for several hours (150-160 degrees). This should kill the sulfur bacteria. Then flush your system, especially your water heater. Also, the magnesium rod can be replaced with an aluminum one, or removed completely. If you live on a dead-end line or in an area with just a few homes, we recommend calling the City Water Department at 952-227-1300 so that the lines can be flushed to assure that there is chlorine present to kill the hydrogen sulfide odor.
 

jayc

Texas-South Chapter Leaders
I don't know if I would open the pressure relief valve to relieve the pressure. On residential water heaters, the pressure relief valve commonly fails to reseal after opening. It will continue to leak or weep, just a slow drip.
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
I found this in the Suburban RV Hot Water Heater site:

There is a bad odor coming from the hot water faucet. How can I correct this?

Answer:
Odor from the hot water system is not a service problem and many water supplies contain sufficient amounts of sulphur to produce an odor. The odor is similar to rotten eggs and is often referred to as "sulphur water." Sulphur water is not harmful - only unpleasant to smell. Sulphur water can be caused by a chemical action or by bacteria. The key to eliminating this smell is heavy chlorination of the water system. Add about six (6) ounces of chlorine (common household liquid bleach) to each 10 gallons in the water tank. Then run the heavily chlorinated water throughout the system, opening each faucet one at a time until you smell the chlorine. Let the RV sit a few days and the chlorine should take care of the problem. Then you will need to take care of the chlorine by flushing the water system. If you don't have a water filtration system that removes chlorine, you may have a problem getting rid of the chlorine taste. You might consider adding such a system because it allows you to keep water chlorinated and this prevents several problems, including sulphur water. Chlorination also takes care of other types of bacteria and viruses.


And about opening the Pressure Relief Valve. I had a problem with mine dripping and this is what Suburban says to resolve that problem:

Why does water drip from my water heater's pressure relief and temperature valve?

Answer:
You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping does not mean that the P&T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P&T valve, the vale will relieve the excess pressure.

One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design - however, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:

1. Turn off the water heater.
2. Turn off the cold water supply line.
3. Open a faucet in the RV.
4. Pull out the handle of the pressure relief (P&T) valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
5. Release the handle on the P&T valve - it should snap closed.
6. Close the faucet and turn on the cold water supply. As the tank fills, the air pocket will develop. Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping P&T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to have your dealer install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.



John
 

ChopperBill

Well-known member
I don't know if I would open the pressure relief valve to relieve the pressure. On residential water heaters, the pressure relief valve commonly fails to reseal after opening. It will continue to leak or weep, just a slow drip.

Jay you might have a point there. My relief valve seeps when the heater gets hot. Not much but annoying.
 
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