I have a 2011 Greystone 32re, My converter stopped working , I tried pushing the reset button on the bus bar but this did not work. My converter is under the stairs. What is the best way to get to it to replace it or test it and how would i go about testing it to make sure that its bad before i spend a bunch of money on a wild goose chase?. I am New to rv ownership and would appreciate all info. Thanks
Converter not working
- Thread starter Jim_037
- Start date
danemayer
Well-known member
Hi Jim_037,
Hopefully someone with a Greystone like yours knows the answer on where the converter is located and will chime in. If not, you might call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032 / 574-262-8030. Have your VIN # ready. They should be able to tell you.
There are typically 3 fuses on the converter. If someone was connecting the battery cables and caused an arc, that could have blown a fuse. Once you get to the converter, you'll see the fuses.
It's also possible that the converter plug has vibrated out of its outlet. If that's the case, when you re-plug, tie it down so it doesn't happen again.
And don't forget to check the 110V circuit breakers. If the breaker has tripped, the converter won't get any power to convert.
The easiest test for the converter is to put a voltmeter on the battery terminals. With converter working, voltage will be somewhere around 13.4V. Without the converter, the best you'd see would be maybe 12.4V.
You might find our 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide helpful in troubleshooting the problem.
Hopefully someone with a Greystone like yours knows the answer on where the converter is located and will chime in. If not, you might call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032 / 574-262-8030. Have your VIN # ready. They should be able to tell you.
There are typically 3 fuses on the converter. If someone was connecting the battery cables and caused an arc, that could have blown a fuse. Once you get to the converter, you'll see the fuses.
It's also possible that the converter plug has vibrated out of its outlet. If that's the case, when you re-plug, tie it down so it doesn't happen again.
And don't forget to check the 110V circuit breakers. If the breaker has tripped, the converter won't get any power to convert.
The easiest test for the converter is to put a voltmeter on the battery terminals. With converter working, voltage will be somewhere around 13.4V. Without the converter, the best you'd see would be maybe 12.4V.
You might find our 12V Block Diagram and Diagnostic Guide helpful in troubleshooting the problem.
danemayer
Well-known member
It's happens enough to mention, but it's not really all that commonplace. And it's more a problem with the plug fitting loosely than with the highways.
Garypowell
Well-known member
Jim,
Also realize you are getting into the time of life on that device when they will start to die. Had you noticed any lights flickering or dimmer than usual. Certainly check it out but with it being Friday you might want to get one on order to take advantage of the weekend travel time.
Also realize most any battery charger will work in its place as an emergency back-up. I carry one full time just in case.
Also realize you are getting into the time of life on that device when they will start to die. Had you noticed any lights flickering or dimmer than usual. Certainly check it out but with it being Friday you might want to get one on order to take advantage of the weekend travel time.
Also realize most any battery charger will work in its place as an emergency back-up. I carry one full time just in case.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Lots of sound advice above. We had this happen last winter. Not a good time! You can probably find one on Amazon, and possibly 2-day shipping if you have Amazon Prime.
You can use a battery charger to keep your battery working (and thus anything 12v in the coach -- fridge, lights, furnace, lp detector, etc.
Be sure to get a heavy duty one that can keep up with the usage.
If your battery is 4+ years old, have you had it tested? If it's at the end of its life, it may not be holding charge. That may be another possibility.
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You can use a battery charger to keep your battery working (and thus anything 12v in the coach -- fridge, lights, furnace, lp detector, etc.
Be sure to get a heavy duty one that can keep up with the usage.
If your battery is 4+ years old, have you had it tested? If it's at the end of its life, it may not be holding charge. That may be another possibility.
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JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Really trying to understand how a converter installed in a 2011 rig is supposed to be at the end of it's life cycle. Or is that the life expectancy of the WFCO models? If your lights suddenly brighten for a few minutes and then dim (back to normal), that's the converter doing a boost charge on the battery. If you have a Charge Wizard pendant on the Progressive Dynamics converter, you can see what it's doing. My converter and the battery are original equipment and still working fine.
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
I remember when this happened to you, and how quickly you were up and running.
danemayer
Well-known member
If there's data to support this viewpoint, I'd be interested in seeing it.
There are many thousands of Heartland trailers over 4 or 5 years in age. If the life cycle of converters was 4 to 5 years, we'd be hearing about failures every day.
I would characterize the number of converter failure reports on this forum as very low and not necessarily related to age.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
I was referring to the battery "end of life", not the converter. Likely, it's a WFCO, not the Progressive.
the WFCO probably does offer 3 stage charging, but may not be equal in quality to the Progressive units found in the top of the HL line.
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the WFCO probably does offer 3 stage charging, but may not be equal in quality to the Progressive units found in the top of the HL line.
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danemayer
Well-known member
Jim.Allison
Well-known member
Grounds are almost always the culprit. Chassis ground are ok, but are subject to problems. Check your grounds and if that is the problem then make up copper wire grounds and use both a wire ground to the batt and a chassis ground. DC would much rather travel through a line than a field and the ground will be much better/reliable. IMHO a "converter" either works or or does not work. Test it by removing one of the battery leads and testing the battery voltage, then test the ""converter" voltage. You should have 13.4 + off the charger/converter (see specs for your charger/converter) and 12.7 or so on battery. More if it has been charging. If the charger is working and the battery is low, then check batt.- just my 2 cents.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
No worries Dan, I was trying to clear up my wording based on post 10, in case it was in question.
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JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
I raised the question based on post #6, Erika, not yours.
TravelTiger
Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Ok. I see that now, but wanted it to be clear for readers.
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Garypowell
Well-known member
OK, I'll fess up.....I made the statement about the life cycle. It does seem to me that when most start chasing a "converter related" problem it turns out to be the converter itself. In a 2011 coach probably built in 2010 with a 2010 converter it was probably just dead.
Not that I was trying to say every converter dies at 4 - 5 years (but that's what two of my coaches have done) but rather with the age of his and symptoms it probably was his converter's end of life.
Not that I was trying to say every converter dies at 4 - 5 years (but that's what two of my coaches have done) but rather with the age of his and symptoms it probably was his converter's end of life.
happykraut
Well-known member
My converter went out on my BH while it was still under warranty.
