UDT / Basement Door Modification

ksucats

Well-known member
Just took our first real camping trip in our new coach. Besides some issues with the slides dragging (almost tearing up) the carpet, the access to the water / TV cable and drain vales was a royal pain - and I do mean pain - that barn door has no latches to keep it open in these Kansas winds.

So, after that introduction may I suggest that, at a minimum, a strong door latch to hold that door open be installed as standard equipment.

As a long term fix, change the design to be two separate doors (with appropriate latches) thereby allowing one to use the UDT without having to open the entire basement to the elements.

Now being a bit greedy but a retro fit package for those of us with the 'barn doors' would be most appreciated. I know my left shoulder and back would!
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Good idea for the factory. For trailers already purchase, you can find spring loaded latches at any RV dealer for $2-3. Takes 5 minutes to install.
 

ksucats

Well-known member
Used the coach this weekend to tailgate and looked at the idea of the spring latches. I don't see how that can be done though - we bedroom slide is immediately above the door; nothing substantial below it to hook to, and the door itself extends a good foot plus past the propane bottle door and then the front of the coach (so nothing up there to hook onto either). I like the idea though - sure beats the bungee cord and eye hook a 'neighbor' at the tailgate suggested in jest (at least I think it was in jest - competing team :cool: ). Some one also suggested the magnetic latches used by a different coach maker but I don't feel those would hold either given the amount of door out front. Big barn door in these Kansas winds.

???
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
I had to remove the gas strut that was attached to the top of the entrance door of our Prowler as the bracket Heartland used to connect it to the door was not big enough to handle the stress of the door, plus it just had three little screws into the trim frame around the door, which was flexing and bending every time the door was opened or closed.

I put bigger and better screws in . . . but they didn't help.

The three original screws stripped out the holes in the door after maybe five nights of camping in the trailer . . . plus the strut wasn't strong enough to even keep the door open in even the slightest breeze.

The door actually rests on the awning arm when opened all the way, so I now have to use a 'C' clamp to hold the door open when the awning is up.

And when the awning is out . . . I have to use a bungee cord wrapped around the awning arm to keep the door opened.

I'm still working out a solution for this and don't want a warranty repair as they will just put the same thing back on since it was factory spec.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
If the door is hinged at the top and will contact the wall above it when opened, you could attach the simple clip that holds open the non-strut style doors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ksucats

Well-known member
Unfortunately the door is hinged on the left side (forward facing side) so when we open the door it swings towards the front of the coach into the void between the pin and the front where the generator would sit if installed. Between the door hinge we have the driver's side (Street side) propane tank and door, and then a very narrow strip of wall before 'nothing' but air. Hope this makes sense. Hence my initial suggestion about dual doors allowing access to the UDC without opening that big barn door.

Appreciate all the responses - I'm still trying to figure out what I can do -- yesterday I thought I might try a long bungee cord and just attach it to the kingpin. Don't know that I'd do that though - I can not even imagine the chuckles it might cause.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
Mine opens the same way. I installed a door catch just like the one on the RV entry door on the cargo bay access door and installed the catch in the small area between the propane door and front of the trailer. Took just a few minutes to install and has worked flawlessly for three years. I posted pictures when I did it but can't find that post while I'm on Tapatalk. Check my threads going back a few years and you can find the pictures. Found the post: OOPs, got the two pieces locations backwards. Search for "Baggage door "hold open" latch" to see the pictures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Unfortunately the door is hinged on the left side (forward facing side) so when we open the door it swings towards the front of the coach into the void between the pin and the front where the generator would sit if installed. Between the door hinge we have the driver's side (Street side) propane tank and door, and then a very narrow strip of wall before 'nothing' but air. Hope this makes sense. Hence my initial suggestion about dual doors allowing access to the UDC without opening that big barn door.

Appreciate all the responses - I'm still trying to figure out what I can do -- yesterday I thought I might try a long bungee cord and just attach it to the kingpin. Don't know that I'd do that though - I can not even imagine the chuckles it might cause.

OK, I misunderstood. So it works the same as mine, as well. I used a long door holder rod to keep it from smacking me in the keister when I'm working in there. I mounted the retainer clip on the propane cabinet door. I used small sections of aluminum sheet stock to provide a better mounting surface on the inside of the doors.
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
OK, I misunderstood. So it works the same as mine, as well. I used a long door holder rod to keep it from smacking me in the keister when I'm working in there. I mounted the retainer clip on the propane cabinet door. I used small sections of aluminum sheet stock to provide a better mounting surface on the inside of the doors.

Nice mounting job.
 

TxCowboy

Well-known member
OK, I misunderstood. So it works the same as mine, as well. I used a long door holder rod to keep it from smacking me in the keister when I'm working in there. I mounted the retainer clip on the propane cabinet door. I used small sections of aluminum sheet stock to provide a better mounting surface on the inside of the doors.

John, that is a great idea and I am so going to do that. Here at the coast, there is always a breeze and keeping that door open while I'm working in the basement is always a problem.

I assume that metal plate didn't come with the holder assembly?

Until now. :)
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
John, that is a great idea and I am so going to do that. Here at the coast, there is always a breeze and keeping that door open while I'm working in the basement is always a problem.

I assume that metal plate didn't come with the holder assembly?

Until now. :)

No, the thin (1/8" thick) aluminum plate came from Home Depot (I think). Just a strip of wide flat stock that I cut to length and rounded the edges with a file. Use the plastic base plate as a template for drilling the holes in the flat stock, then drill the door. That way everything lines up.
 

Ron-Cookie

Senior Member
On my Sundance the hinge is on the top so I purchased a some magnetic catches like those on the large basement door on the other side of the 5th wheel.... I got the magnetic catches at Amazon... Works great!
 

ksucats

Well-known member
John (jondar): I just noticed that your 'propane' door has what appears to be a lock on it. Did you add that or did it come from the factory that way?

Not wanting to jinx myself but I've wondered why they don't have a lock on those things. Oh well, daydreaming when I should be working :cool:
 

danemayer

Well-known member
John (jondar): I just noticed that your 'propane' door has what appears to be a lock on it. Did you add that or did it come from the factory that way?

Not wanting to jinx myself but I've wondered why they don't have a lock on those things. Oh well, daydreaming when I should be working :cool:
Code requires the propane doors not be locked for safety reasons.
 

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
John (jondar): I just noticed that your 'propane' door has what appears to be a lock on it. Did you add that or did it come from the factory that way?

Not wanting to jinx myself but I've wondered why they don't have a lock on those things. Oh well, daydreaming when I should be working :cool:

As Dan says . . . it is a safety "in case of fire" code!

I have both of my propane tanks cable locked to the trailer frame to keep them from growing legs . . .
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I put it on. When it's in the storage yard or we're not "in residence," it gets locked and the tanks are turned off.
 
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