What is your recommendation for a portable electric heater for your RV?

JohnD

Moved on to the next thing...
On our last campout of the season last week it got pretty cool at night up in the mountains (low 30's).

I busted out our small portable electric heater that worked well in our last two trailers . . . but not so well in our much larger 5th-wheel!

Which electric heaters have you all been using to take the edge off of the cold air in your trailers :confused:
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
Any 1500 watt heater will produce about 5200 BTUs. Doesn't matter if an expensive "Amish" heater or a cheap milk house heater. We use a small ceramic heater with a built in fan. Easy to store and doesn't take much room but anything will work...Don
 

MTPockets

Well-known member
John, all electric heaters are 1500 watts, so current draw is the same. We tried two heaters once and kept tripping circuit breaker. I could have taken time to find a separate circuit, or used the 110 outlet on the pole but reverted to a single heater. We now use the Dyson AM05. It's 1500 watts as well, but has a strong, adjustable speed blower, oscillates, and has a good thermostat. It also doubles as a fan when heat is not required. It's pricy, but the best we've found. We use it most every day for heat or just the fan.
 

Bones

Well-known member
Typical house hold breaker is 15 amps and a 1500 watt heater draws about 12.5 amps at 120 volts and draws more at a lower voltage
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I have been using one like this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Comfort-Zone-5-120-BTU-Electric-Radiant-Heater-Gray-CZ530WM/21899615 available at most every Walmart, and the price is low.

Be sure to upgrade any electrical outlet you use for electrical heaters to a screwed termination type (regular home outlet) from the insulation displacement connection type that the RV assembly lines use. In my opinion the insulation displacement wire connection is too poor for high current uses.
 

Birchwood

Well-known member
For the last 3 years we have been using a Lasko 5841 Digital Ceramic.It can run all night and its electrical cord still feels cool.
 

rxbristol

Well-known member
We have several Pelonis B-6A1 Classic Ceramic Disc Heaters.

Tip-over protection.
Surface temperature below the ignition temperature of paper and other flammable materials.
Smart thermostat that allows the heating elements to run at multiple power levels.

Dan, would you use this in the enclosed belly area near the UDC to prevent frozen pipes? For the last two winters I've used a 150 watt IR bulb that has a protective cage around the bulb.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
We have two Polonis portable space heaters. Got them at Camping World. One for the bedroom and one for the living room. The living room one will heat the whole RV but we usually turn it off at night and when we are gone. We use the fireplace to take the chill on on cool mornings. We use the space heaters to supplement the furnace as you need to keep the furnace on to heat the basement and underbelly.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Dan, would you use this in the enclosed belly area near the UDC to prevent frozen pipes? For the last two winters I've used a 150 watt IR bulb that has a protective cage around the bulb.

I tried that our first ski trip. It kept the pump area warm but so much heat rose that it faked out the hallway thermostat and the furnace wouldn't run. Also didn't get heat to the underbelly. I use a reflector type lamp with infrared bulb now.


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TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
For the area behind the basement wall, we use a reflector light attached with an L bracket to the "ceiling" above the pump. I think we used a 150watt "shop light" bulb. The cord for this light is snaked back to the UDC where it plugs in. I can see the light leaking up through the bathroom heat vent inside the coach (notice the gray heater vent pipe) so I know it's on. LOL! By the way, do NOT trust the "clamp" attachment of the light to hold it in place, and always have a spare bulb.
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Bones

Well-known member
For the area behind the basement wall, we use a reflector light attached with an L bracket to the "ceiling" above the pump. I think we used a 150watt "shop light" bulb. The cord for this light is snaked back to the UDC where it plugs in. I can see the light leaking up through the bathroom heat vent inside the coach (notice the gray heater vent pipe) so I know it's on. LOL! By the way, do NOT trust the "clamp" attachment of the light to hold it in place, and always have a spare bulb.
View attachment 41006

Your mechanical compartment looks so much neater than mine. It's a freaking mess back there behind mine
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired
Your mechanical compartment looks so much neater than mine. It's a freaking mess back there behind mine

Naw, it's still a mess, this pic just doesn't show it. Most of the water lines are off to the right more, and the wiring is off to the left. ;)
 

NWILSON

Kentucky Chapter Leaders - retired
The Heat Strip for the Dometic A/C unit is 1500 watts also. I've been wondering just how much heat it would actually put out as it appears I can add it to my A/C unit. I realize it will require a different thermostat as well. They say it's only to take the chill off on a cold morning but how cold is cold? 50? 45? 40?
 
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