BC 3900FLP Washer/Dryer Install

I've researched for the last couple of months how to install a washer and dryer in an RV and can't express enough how helpful it was to have forums and folks like this who shared their experiences and photos, so I would like to return the favor for the next lucky installer.

Vent
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My BC had the vent placement marked with a sticker, however it would have put the vent half way level with the washer instead of slightly over it. I also seemed to find a stud very near the center of the sticker marking via a metal stud finder so I didn't trust it and instead went a little higher after checking for studs as best as possible. I marked out the center of the hole, created a circle around the center point where the vent would be and drilled small holes around the circumference and in the cross pattern from center to double check for studs. I checked approximately where it would end up on the outside to verify it wasn't going to break/hit anything and placement was good, by using a measuring tape from the edge of the slide-out. I then drilled out the hole (from the inside) with a 4" hole saw just far enough to come close to the outer shell so the styrofoam insulation would be marked sufficiently to pry out. Once the styrofoam was out I used the hole saw to cut just enough into the outer wall (from inside) until the center drill bit went clean through but not enough for the saw portion to get through the wall. I then from the outside put the hole saw bit into the fresh new center hole and ran the drill in reverse slowly until it cut all the way through to avoid chipping the fiberglass in forward. I never had to run it in forward, the saw cut it just fine in reverse and left a perfect hole with no chips.

I installed the vent through the hole after cleaning both it and the surrounding wall thoroughly. I mounted the vent with the provided self tapping screws and made sure it was level. For each screw I dabbed a bit of caulk in the hole to help provide a seal and ran a bead of caulk around the plastic vent portion facing the wall. I did the same for the vent cover.

Drain Pan
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I bought some 1/2" plywood and coated it with Thompson's water seal spray and placed the drain pan over it. After measuring and test fitting the washing machine I drilled the 4 holes prescribed by the directions that came with the drain pan and mounted it and the plywood underneath to the closet area where the washer was to be placed. I bought a length of PEX hose and a shark bite 90 degree to 1/2" thread adaptor, drilled a small 3/4" hole between the closet and the refrigerator and ran the PEX behind the fridge/stove into the sink area where the water lines meet. Along with the PEX hose I ran a black/red 12v wire pair, connected a moisture relay at the drain pan and mounted a small solar pump in the back of the kitchen sink storage and routed the hose into a WYE ABS adaptor in the sink drain (like a dishwasher would). I then wired up the brain of the relay to the moisture sensor board and the 12v pump.

Washer
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I bought steel braided hoses with 90 degree angles on them that connect to the washer and bought an additional two 90 degree hose adaptors for the connection to the inlets as the hoses stuck out well over the washer so I knew the dryer would run into them. I used pipe tape on all the threads as a precautionary measure even though you're not supposed to have to. The mounting brackets from Splendid for the dryer came with a template you set over the top of the washer with explicit instructions to only drill the holes a certain distance or risk damaging the washer. I used black electrical tape on the drill bit to prevent drilling any farther than instructed and measured several times to make sure the template was in the right position to house the dryer. For these two specific models the dryer sticks out over the washer and is about parallel with the washer dial/knob.

Dryer
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The dryer was a pita! Since I had no access to the back of the dryer when it was in place and the vent hose for the dryer doesn't reach out far enough to try and put on before pushing the dryer back (all while holding the dryer above the washer), I chose to push the dryer in place above the washer (with the front mounting bracket off). Once pushed in place I pushed against the top of the dryer with an upward motion so the top was pinned against the back wall and lifted it up and put shims underneath so I could reach under the dryer to secure the vent pipe to the wall vent outlet (I secured the dryer side of the flexy pipe prior to pushing it into place). It was painful but worked; I then put the front dryer mounting bracket back on while the dryer was elevated since it mounts to the washer well underneath the dryer (I used a short screw driver). Once the dryer was down off the shims it snapped right into place in the bracket. I installed the three screws that came with the mounting kit into the bottom of the dryer.

Note About My Craziness
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Most have routed their drain hose out of the trailer in some form or fashion but that requires making sure the hose stays flat for the run or slightly angled down or the water won't run out. I have attached a 3.0-GPH 12v pump to the hose and wired it to a moisture sensor relay to activate the pump if the pan is wet and pull the water into the front grey tank via the sink ABS. This route is far more work and can potentially have some faults if there is no 12v or the front sink drain is clogged but it's the route I chose so I'll post a followup on how well it works (if I ever need it to work, hopefully not).

Parts
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Washer - Whirlpool Model # WFC7500VW
Dryer - Whirlpool Model # LDR3822PQ
Mounting Kit (Splendid) #Vent Kit (Splendid) #Drain Pan (Splendid) #PEX hose and Shark bite male 90 to 1/2"

Experimental Parts
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Yosoo Solar DC 12V Hot Water Circulation Pump Brushless Motor Water Pump 3M Low Noise (12V)Selling High Quality From Wasooo
GERITM Highly Sensitive 12V Rain Sensor Module + Relay Control Module for Arduino Robot Kit

Hope this post benefits someone!

So come on down to South Texas and install that drain pan mod in my LM!

Nice job and great write-up!

TxCowboy said:

So come on down to South Texas and install that drain pan mod in my LM!

Nice job and great write-up!

Click to expand...

Ironically planning a possible trip to Austin this Feb... be careful what you wish for, I have no idea if that pump idea will work and hope I never have to find out if it does. The moisture relay does work, I can drop water on the sensor and it will fire up the pump, now whether the pump will have enough suction/self priming/whatever to pull the water out of the pan, I have no idea.

I'll do some experimenting and post a followup with pictures of that portion (forgot to take them when I was out at the trailer last weekend).

Now's the time to find out if that pump will cut the mustard! You might want to take a pitcher of water and pour into the drain pan and see if that bad boy does the trick. If not, at least will know and can work out some other plan. BTW- great job and write-up!

OmniDynmc,
Thanks for sharing. This will be useful information when I install the stackable in our BH 3160 next month. The only problem I have is to figure out how to get a 23.5" wide machine into a 23" opening. I believe I will have to remove some or all of the door moulding.
The next step I have is to head to CW on Friday with a pair of jeans for an extra 10% off. Not sure what this promo is about, but for an extra $157 off, it's worth trading in a used pair of jeans.

Yes, thanks for sharing! Tackling install of our combo this weekend, and the dryer vent is the biggest question at the moment. Nice to see the pic and detailed instructions for that.


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DougS, I read in another write-up for the stackable washer/drying install that you have to remove the door frame to give you the extra room you need to get the machines into that space.

TxCowboy said:

DougS, I read in another write-up for the stackable washer/drying install that you have to remove the door frame to give you the extra room you need to get the machines into that space.

Click to expand...

Jeff, that's how I measure it. I believe I wrote moulding when I meant the door frame. I decided to install the machines myself so I know how to get the machines out while on the road. Behind the machines in the BH3160 is an access panel that might be needed for future repairs.

If you can remember where you read about taking the door frame out, I would be interested. I searched but I was unable to find anything.

Doug, here's the link to jbeletti's Ashland mod. Your RV may have a larger door opening or smaller washer/dryer so you may not need to remove the door panel. In Jim's case, it looks like he only had to remove the door itself to have enough room to work in that closet.

See post #75.

//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/51167-jbeletti-s-2015-Landmark-365-Ashland/page8

Also, if you do decide to install a stackable set, my local RV tech suggested adding some length to the hot and cold water lines and adding shut-off values to those lines and attaching them to the interior closet walls so that you can reach them in case there is a leak. I haven't done that yet but it sounds like a good idea, IMHO.

TravelTiger said:

Yes, thanks for sharing! Tackling install of our combo this weekend, and the dryer vent is the biggest question at the moment. Nice to see the pic and detailed instructions for that.

Click to expand...

The dyer vent was the thing I was most paranoid about. Best I can recommend is don't be in a hurry, make sure you're at least 95% confident there aren't any studs (Zircon metal stud finder, don't trust the sticker!) and use the small drill method once you find the spot you think is right to verify before cutting the hole on the inside. Once you've got the hole on the inside successfully cut out and no studs in the way the rest is a piece of cake!

I didn't try the condensation method of finding the studs from the outside but I've heard that is effective too if you can go out prior on in the morning.


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guyc66 said:

Now's the time to find out if that pump will cut the mustard! You might want to take a pitcher of water and pour into the drain pan and see if that bad boy does the trick. If not, at least will know and can work out some other plan. BTW- great job and write-up!

Click to expand...

I've got a second identical pump I intend to use for another "interesting" project. I'm going to do a test with it and see if it can pull in water from a pan like the drain pan where you're not always guaranteed that the hose inlet will be full of water (i.e. half the hose has water but air can leak over it). I'll post a follow-up after the test!

Greg

DougS said:

Jeff, that's how I measure it. I believe I wrote moulding when I meant the door frame. I decided to install the machines myself so I know how to get the machines out while on the road. Behind the machines in the BH3160 is an access panel that might be needed for future repairs.

If you can remember where you read about taking the door frame out, I would be interested. I searched but I was unable to find anything.

Click to expand...

When we installed the Whirlpools in our Landmark, we had to remove the bedroom entry door and door moulding to get the washer into the bedroom. If you have to do that, just go slowly and easily with the moulding removal. It can easily break. I used a 2" metal putty knife to slowly pry it away from the framing. There were probably 2 dozen staples holding it in place.

Gus thanks for the advice. When I start the install, it will probably go fine. I plan on looking at using screws on the re-install to make future removals easier. My measurements show the machines will go through the opening sideways but the closet looks about 1" short of allowing them from turning 90°.

Erika, where in your rig does the combo unit go? A separate space for it or the bedroom closet (like my BH3670)? The dealer installed the machine before we took delivery, but I had to move it in order to install a drain pan under it after it leaked . Leak was due to me not winterizing it properly.

The machine is heavy but it can be moved using leverage and putting large carpet sliders under the feet. Once you get the rear onto the drain pan, then you have to muscle it. The front lip of the pan goes on after you position the machine.

JohnDar said:

Erika, where in your rig does the combo unit go? A separate space for it or the bedroom closet (like my BH3670)? The dealer installed the machine before we took delivery, but I had to move it in order to install a drain pan under it after it leaked . Leak was due to me not winterizing it properly.

The machine is heavy but it can be moved using leverage and putting large carpet sliders under the feet. Once you get the rear onto the drain pan, then you have to muscle it. The front lip of the pan goes on after you position the machine.

Click to expand...

John, I'm sure it's like yours. But we have the slightly sloping ceiling -- I've hit my head on the closet header a few times just trying to figure out the washer placement and such. There is a 2 foot wide x 5 inch deep chase from floor to ceiling that protrudes into the closet where they ran the water lines and drain line on the door-side wall. It covers most of the closet wall, so there's very little exposed exterior wall for the vent. No sticker. Will have to do some stud finding and experimenting to see where to put the vent in.

I did get the pan. Already have a plan for the pan drain line run into the battery compartment below the dresser.

Any recommendations to secure the combo washer for travel for a unit sitting in the Splendide plastic pan? I see separate floor brackets can be bought but is this a good idea screwing these through the pan? I was leaning toward the ratchet strap idea.


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TravelTiger said:

Any recommendations to secure the combo washer for travel for a unit sitting in the Splendide plastic pan? I see separate floor brackets can be bought but is this a good idea screwing these through the pan? I was leaning toward the ratchet strap idea.

Click to expand...

If the pan is correctly plumbed to drain, putting screws in it with perhaps some caulking to seal them shouldn't hurt anything imho. The way I look at it, the pan is meant to minimize damage as much as possible and chances are you'll notice if it's wet and take immediate action. This is also partially why I placed a 1/2" plywood board sprayed with water seal under my pan, to give me a little bit extra of a layer of protection but I doubt with the caulking the screws will cause much of a leak from the pan.

Erika, I did not bracket the machine into the drain pan. So far, it appears that gravity and the rubber feet on it have kept it immobile for the towing I've done with it.

To drop the drain tube into my battery compartment, I had to remove the dresser drawers and cut away a section of the dust panel to drill through the flooring into the compartment. Used some zip ties to secure it to the framing. If you want some photos, I can post them (from my laptop).

JohnDar said:

Erika, I did not bracket the machine into the drain pan. So far, it appears that gravity and the rubber feet on it have kept it immobile for the towing I've done with it.

To drop the drain tube into my battery compartment, I had to remove the dresser drawers and cut away a section of the dust panel to drill through the flooring into the compartment. Used some zip ties to secure it to the framing. If you want some photos, I can post them (from my laptop).

Click to expand...

Thanks John, post away! I think I got this, but it might help others!

I discovered a hole already from the battery compartment to behind the drawers, and I don't have a dust panel under the drawers. I can easily see the plumbing once drawers are removed.

I don't trust that the w/d won't move. When we go somewhere, it could be 1000 miles and back. I don't ever want to find it crashed through the glass mirror doors.


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Erika,

Jim Hutt put together a nice installation guide document a while back. It's with the other Splendide manuals on the forum.

Thanks Dan, I thought I did a pretty thorough scouring of the forum for info, but I did not see this.

danemayer said:

Erika,

Jim Hutt put together a nice installation guide document a while back. It's with the other Splendide manuals on the forum.

Click to expand...

Erika, I understand your concern about it shifting, but having muscled that thing in the closet, it will take a lot to bounce it around. But I would opt for the ratchet strap rather than putting more holes in the plastic pan.


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