Dryer Vent

oldelmer1

Well-known member
Hi Folks,

We are Tom & Sharon from Elkton, Maryland, and we just bought a 2016 Landmark Orlando 5th wheel. We use to have a Montana 5th wheel that was only 34.5 feet long. The documentation on this Orlando says its 37'-11" long, but its more like 42 feet.

Anyhow, we want to drill a hole in the slide for the dryer vent, we have a Splendide washer/dryer combo that we took out of our old Montana.

Any suggestions or thoughts before I go drilling would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi Tom & Sharon,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of folks here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

Several others have installed their own machines and drilled the hole. I think they use a stud finder and mark the area and start out using a small bit to be sure of the locations of the studs. I'm sure some of our other members that have done the deed will jump in soon.

Be sure and check out our Heartland Owners Club. Join us at a rally when you can and meet lots of the great folks here and make friends for a lifetime.

Enjoy the forum and your new unit.

Jim M
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Hi Tom and Sharon,

Congrats on your Orlando and welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. I suggest you determine your idea hole location based on where your dryer will sit and it's exhaust port. Make a mark on the wall in the center of the hole and using a tiny finishing nail, probe across the center (entire width) of the hole (across and up/down) to ensure there is no structure there. Once you'e obtained the dryer vent and proper size hole saw, most will:
1. Tape off the inside and begin to drill the hole. They generally stop when the pilot bit just penetrates the outer wall skin
2. Tape off the outside wall and finish drilling the hole from the outside.
 

MCTalley

Well-known member
Having just installed a vented w/d combo in our Big Country, I agree with Jim's general instructions (though I didn't tape off inside since I didn't care if it was a little rough). On most Heartland rigs, there is a sticker on the wall that indicates the center point of their suggested location for a dryer vent. If you care to use this spot (it was a little high for our w/d combo, but it worked fine), you should be guaranteed not to hit any studs in the wall (they are aluminum).

You'll be using a 4" hole saw, by the way.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
Our "drill here" sticker was 2 inches off. If I had drilled there I would have hit a stud. Do as Jim suggested and punch small finishing nail holes to ensure you find a 4 inch round area for the vent. Once I knew where the correct center of the 4 inch hole should be, I used a 1/8 in bit to drill through to the outside. I then went outside and with a 4 inch hole saw bit, put the drill in REVERSE and began scoring the fiberglass. Using the hole saw in reverse gives an even smoother initial cut than the tape will. After the 4 inch circle is about 1/16 inch deep all the way around, you can put the drill in forward and finish cutting the hole.
 

oldelmer1

Well-known member
Thanks everyone, using the finishing nail is a great idea.

My drill sticker is on the wall where the water/drain pipes are, so if I drilled there, we'd be into the bedroom.

I did read somewhere on here that someone wanted to do this, and asked about the stud. The answer was the engineers said its ok to cut part of the stud out if its in the way???

Any comments on this???

Thanks, Tom
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Thanks everyone, using the finishing nail is a great idea.

My drill sticker is on the wall where the water/drain pipes are, so if I drilled there, we'd be into the bedroom.

I did read somewhere on here that someone wanted to do this, and asked about the stud. The answer was the engineers said its ok to cut part of the stud out if its in the way???

Any comments on this???

Thanks, Tom

My comment is that moving a max of 2" from ideal saves a big headache - though I agree that cutting a stud in a slide wall causes no structural damage.
 

DougS

Doug S
I agree with Gus about running the drill bit in reverse to penetrate the skin for a smooth hole. I just drilled a hole for my BH for the dryer vent and it came out great. You might also think of getting a Chrome style vent.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
An electronic stud finder (one that also picks up metal studs) will locate the aluminum framing of the outer walls.
 

AAdams

Well-known member
Hello,

Here is a link of what TravelTiger did in his Elkridge. He attached pictures that may help you in your install.
 

oldelmer1

Well-known member
Thanks everyone for the tips, links, and ideas. They will sure make drilling the hole a lot less frightening. LOL.
 

etcmss

Well-known member
when I did this in my Big Horn I read a thread about morning dew on outside showing where the studs were. That info helped confirm the 4 inch hole wouldn't have interference.
 

oldelmer1

Well-known member
Well, we did the dryer vent today.

Dryer was already in place, so we leaned the washer out and took the 4" hole saw and placed it over the Splendide dryer output, then put the Splendide back in place and moved the hole saw to the wall. Marked the bit end onto the wall, removed the hole saw and used a finishing nail to be sure there was no stud(which there wasn't). Drilled a hole from the inside to the outside using a 5/16" drill bit. Then went outside and taped off the area and cut the 4" hole running the drill backwards so we didn't damage the finish.

Easy as could be.....

THANK YOU ALL...
 

BandGun

Member
What vent did you use? What keeps the flap(s) from blowing open and allowing the environment to be driven in while going down the road?
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
What keeps the flap(s) from blowing open and allowing the environment to be driven in while going down the road?
Probably nothing.
I don't have a problem with our dryer vent. I installed a vent from Splendide.

Peace
Dave
 

mlpeloquin

Well-known member
Use a good stud finder. It will see it. The due will also show where the studs are at times. I would not want to drill out a stud. Put a drain pan in and rout the drain to the outside. You don't want a flood in you fifth wheel. My washer/dryer is in the front closet of the bedroom. I routed it in the chase going under the dresser. I drilled into the propane compartment. i purchased a 15' garden hose to use and cut the ends off. Make sure the hose is level or going down hill. I used metal screen material to keep the bus out of the drain line, used my thumb to form it and attached it to the hose end with Gorilla tape. Love that stuff. I also replaced the install valves with a single lever one. I used shark bite fittings. Easy on and off. The ones it replaced were so hard to turn my wife could not operate them. I too do not have a problem with the vent, but just in case put a piece of sponge to hold it shut when in storage.

When drilling, go half way from the inside then finish on the outside. This will leave a smooth surface on both sides.
 

TravelTiger

Founding Texas-West Chapter Leaders-Retired

X2 -- the black part on the right goes through the hole in the wall. On the inside, you attach the 4" vent hose from the dryer. On the outside, you add the chrome cover that shields it from weather, etc. (also comes in black or white)

Yes, winds blowing just the right way will make it flap, like the vent over the stove. I'm not sure what it does while driving.


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