Check lists...

• When you think you're correctly positioned on the site, before unhitching, check placement of utilities to make sure the power cord will reach the pedestal, the water hose will reach the UDC, the sewer drain is within reach. Reposition as necessary.
  
• Set the parking brake on the truck.
  
• Lower the tailgate.
  
• Disconnect the trailer cable and breakaway cable from the truck.
  
• Extend the front landing jacks and watch the pin box as the truck rises. When you see the top plate (on the pin box) lift slightly above the bottom plate (top surface of the hitch), stop extending.
  
• Wiggle the hitch to double check that it's unloaded.
  
• Move the TS3/BD3 lock lever to the full-forward position to open the hitch jaws. (TrailerSaver specific)
  
• Double check that the tailgate is down and cables are out of the way.
  
• Carefully pull the truck forward far enough to close the tailgate.
  
• Coil the cables and tuck into the pin box area.
  
• Plug the power cord into the Electrical Management System/Surge Protector (EMS). (Get one if you don't have one).
  
• Turn off the 50 Amp breaker at the pedestal.
  
• Plug the EMS into the pedestal.
  
• Turn the 50 Amp breaker on. (Takes about 2 minutes for power to come on).
  
• Press the AUTO-LEVEL button on the controller. The auto-level will lower the front of the coach a bit and then start leveling. Wait for it to completely finish.
  
• If using wheel chocks, put them into position.
  
• Open the coach and check for anything out of position in the bedroom. If ok, extend the bedroom slide.
  
• Open the doorside slide part way. Check for anything out of position that might get caught. Finish extending the slide.
  
• Don't open the off-door-side slide until the water and sewer lines are hooked up.
  
• Install the water pressure regulator (mandatory), water hose, and filter (if you have one).
  
• Turn on the water faucet and check for leaks.
  
• Connect the sewer hose. (Get an external gate valve and clear flush king extension for the sewer pipe outlet).
  
• Open the gray #1 and gray #2 dump valves (or leave them closed - personal choice).
  
• Take a quick look to make sure the Water Heater Bypass Valve is in the normal operating position.
  
• DO NOT open the black tank dump valve. Only open that valve when the tank is full or nearly full.
  
• Check for obstructions inside and then extend the off-door-side slide.
  
• Open the kitchen sink faucet and check for cold water coming out of both cold and hot water settings. Run the hot water setting for 10-15 seconds to make sure there's water in the Hot Water Tank (If you didn't check the Water Heater Bypass Valve, this is not meaningful.)
  
• Turn on the Electric switch for the Hot Water Heater. (If you do this with no water in the tank, you'll burn out the element in a very short time.)
  
• Check the battery charge indicator. On shore power it will read 4 lights. If it drops to less than 4 while on shore power, you need to investigate.
  
• Leave the water pump switch OFF if you are hooked up to city water. If using the pump, be aware that it should run only when you have a faucet open. If it runs with all faucets closed, you must investigate right away.
  
• Check that the refrigerator switched to electric mode (if you had it running on LP while towing). If it's in AUTO mode it will switch automatically when shore power comes on.
  
• Carefully open the refrigerator doors to check of anything is going to fall out or has spilled.
  
• Carefully open cabinet doors to check if anything is going to fall out.
  
• Unstrap and position chairs.
  
• If using the TV antenna, raise the antenna and turn on the signal booster. Set the TV menu to AIR and do an auto scan for local stations.
  
• If using cable, connect the park cable outlet to the cable connector in the UDC. Then turn the signal booster off. Set the TV menu to CABLE and run the auto scan for available channels.

danemayer said:

I've attached a departure checklist in MS Word format. And here's a list of arrival & setup steps. After you make your version, perhaps you could share the finished document.



Arrival & Setup

• When you think you're correctly positioned on the site, before unhitching, check placement of utilities to make sure the power cord will reach the pedestal, the water hose will reach the UDC, the sewer drain is within reach. Reposition as necessary.
• Set the parking brake on the truck.
• Lower the tailgate.
• Disconnect the trailer cable and breakaway cable from the truck.
• Extend the front landing jacks and watch the pin box as the truck rises. When you see the top plate (on the pin box) lift slightly above the bottom plate (top surface of the hitch), stop extending.
• Wiggle the hitch to double check that it's unloaded.
• Move the TS3/BD3 lock lever to the full-forward position to open the hitch jaws. (TrailerSaver specific)
• Double check that the tailgate is down and cables are out of the way.
• Carefully pull the truck forward far enough to close the tailgate.
• Coil the cables and tuck into the pin box area.
• Plug the power cord into the Electrical Management System/Surge Protector (EMS). (Get one if you don't have one).
• Turn off the 50 Amp breaker at the pedestal.
• Plug the EMS into the pedestal.
• Turn the 50 Amp breaker on. (Takes about 2 minutes for power to come on).
• Press the AUTO-LEVEL button on the controller. The auto-level will lower the front of the coach a bit and then start leveling. Wait for it to completely finish.
• If using wheel chocks, put them into position.
• Open the coach and check for anything out of position in the bedroom. If ok, extend the bedroom slide.
• Open the doorside slide part way. Check for anything out of position that might get caught. Finish extending the slide.
• Don't open the off-door-side slide until the water and sewer lines are hooked up.
• Install the water pressure regulator (mandatory), water hose, and filter (if you have one).
• Turn on the water faucet and check for leaks.
• Connect the sewer hose. (Get an external gate valve and clear flush king extension for the sewer pipe outlet).
• Open the gray #1 and gray #2 dump valves (or leave them closed - personal choice).
• Take a quick look to make sure the Water Heater Bypass Valve is in the normal operating position.
• DO NOT open the black tank dump valve. Only open that valve when the tank is full or nearly full.
• Check for obstructions inside and then extend the off-door-side slide.
• Open the kitchen sink faucet and check for cold water coming out of both cold and hot water settings. Run the hot water setting for 10-15 seconds to make sure there's water in the Hot Water Tank (If you didn't check the Water Heater Bypass Valve, this is not meaningful.)
• Turn on the Electric switch for the Hot Water Heater. (If you do this with no water in the tank, you'll burn out the element in a very short time.)
• Check the battery charge indicator. On shore power it will read 4 lights. If it drops to less than 4 while on shore power, you need to investigate.
• Leave the water pump switch OFF if you are hooked up to city water. If using the pump, be aware that it should run only when you have a faucet open. If it runs with all faucets closed, you must investigate right away.
• Check that the refrigerator switched to electric mode (if you had it running on LP while towing). If it's in AUTO mode it will switch automatically when shore power comes on.
• Carefully open the refrigerator doors to check of anything is going to fall out or has spilled.
• Carefully open cabinet doors to check if anything is going to fall out.
• Unstrap and position chairs.
• If using the TV antenna, raise the antenna and turn on the signal booster. Set the TV menu to AIR and do an auto scan for local stations.
• If using cable, connect the park cable outlet to the cable connector in the UDC. Then turn the signal booster off. Set the TV menu to CABLE and run the auto scan for available channels.

Click to expand...

weekender01 said:

Quick comment. You do not mention chocks until step 16. I would think that should be right around your 3rd step. I know many camp sites are not level and would hate to see someones trailer/5th wheel go rolling away. You may have been lucky not doing this so far, but one day it could be a huge issue. Just my feedback.

Click to expand...

Bob&Patty said:

Pat and I have been doing this a long time. Set up and tear down is always the same. She does the inside..ALWAYS and do the outside...Always. Two important things...when flushing the black tank....NEVER EVER turn it on and walk away. When doing your tear down never let someone interrupt you. Bad things can happen and sometimes things get left behind. Power cords are not cheap and neither are pressure regulators. Don't ask. You and DW will get a system going and then stick to it.

Click to expand...

danemayer said:

I use x-chocks and putting them in before auto-leveling doesn't work well - they can fall out during auto-level. But even on serious slopes, I've never had any trailer movement once the front landing gear are down. Here's an example.

View attachment 43587

But you have a good point and anyone who wants to use the list should consider your suggestion.

Click to expand...

HornedToad said:

I remember flying with my Dad, who was an IFR pilot with several thousand hours. He walked through a pre flight checklist before EVERY take off... Because our lives depended on it!!!

I think the same care should be used flying down the hiway with 20,000 lbs in tow.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

TravelTiger said:

I think a search for tv checklist will give you a lot of choices. I think you just have to see what type of list you are looking for and find one you think fits your needs. Everyone's set-up and tear-down are probably different. One of my checklist items (all in my head) is to take Eileen's picture before we depart. Eileen is a bear carved with a chainsaw from a pine tree. We take her pic at the campground, usually sittin on the picnic table, with the rig and some scenery from the park in the pic.

Good luck in your search!! Once you get the hang of it, the process becomes second nature.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

HornedToad said:

I remember flying with my Dad, who was an IFR pilot with several thousand hours. He walked through a pre flight checklist before EVERY take off... Because our lives depended on it!!!

I think the same care should be used flying down the hiway with 20,000 lbs in tow.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Bob&Patty said:

One other thing we have always done. Buy things little at a time like shoes, socks, underware, pants, shirts and jackets for all seasons and leave them in the coach. Buy canned goods and other non perishables and leave them in the coach. In other words....you are ready to go except things that need to go in the fridge. Make sure you do not put heavy items in upper cupboards. We had a microwave plate take out the door ( broke the glass) and break in a bazillon pieces. The plate costs more than a new microwave. Take it out and store in somewhere. If you have opposing cupboard door...put pony tail ties on them to keep them closed. BTW, DO NOT go to CW and buy every neat thing you see. Keep a pad and pencil, and write down things you need. Buy them at WALLY WORLD and leave them in the coach. You will get the hang of it soon enough.

Click to expand...

Bgthomas said:

I'd be glad to email my master spreadsheet. PM your email.

Click to expand...

Diamondjim said:

As stated before, you'll develop a routine for your rig in particular.
I downloaded the Adventure Treks app to my Android phone and customized it to my liking. It has RV Departure, RV Arrival & setup and Camping Preparation. All can be customized easily.
Go to your app store, and good luck.

Click to expand...

wdk450 said:

I have 4 checklists: Interior pre-departure by rooms/areas, Exterior pre-departure, Exterior Final Checks, Arrival and set-up checks. These lists are custom tuned to my rig and my special areas of attention, and the fact that I am a single RVer.

Trailer Inside Departure Prep
Pre-Departure
Cell Phone charged
TPMS Charged
Laptop Computer Charged
WiFi Hotspot charged
ALL ITEMS LISTED ABOVE STOWED IN TRUCK

Bedroom
TPMS Transmitter repeater “ON”
Closet doors latched
TV stowed in travel position
Rooftop antenna down
Solar panel on bed
Bathroom
Shredder in shower, shower latched
Sink basket on floor
Toilet lid down – Water switch “off”
Roof vent crank secured
Door closed
Kitchen
Counters cleared
Icemaker secured
Inductive cooktop secured
Appliances secured
Kitchen slide foam seal removed
Dishes cabinet blocked and knob locked
All cabinet knobs secured



Dining/Living Room
Align and cover table/chairs
Stow magazine table
Block couch drawer
Stow TV remotes
Stow Printer/Box
Computer/Hotspot to doorway
Stow electronics box
Put desk securing bar in place
Secure desk chair
Secure TV
Close and lock Audio/Visual cabinet
Secure Sunlamp, heater, rockers, TV tray

Outside Pre-Departure
Dump Sewer
Clean Slide Tops
Bring Slides in
Disconnect/Disassemble Satellite System
Shore Water hoses disconnected and stowed
Rear Stabilizers Up
Flip up Truck outside mirrors and adjust aiming
TPMS setup - Tires/Suspension inspection
Check truck fluids
Check truck airbags inflation level
Remove hitch lock
Hitch Up Truck
Landing Gear up, leveler blocks stowed
Inside main circuit breakers off
AC shore Electrical Cable disconnected and stowed


Pre-Departure Truck/Trailer (Last Checks)
Headlights on
Hitched and locked
Trailer Emergency brake lanyard in place
Hitch trailer pin catcher in place
Trailer umbilical electrical cable plugged in
Truck net tied up
Trailer umbilical rear view camera hooked up
Wheel chocks removed
Final rig walk around inspection (Tires, trailer lighting, stabilizers/landing gear up?, steps/door OK?, antenna down?)
TPMS monitor in place and working
Destination entered on GPS
Mirrors OK
All engine gauges reading normally
Transmission in “Tow Mode”
Pull forward and retrieve side leveler blocks (if used)
Pull out and do trailer brake test ASAP

RV Space Arrival Steps
Select space with South sky view for satellite
Pull into space checking for obstacles – Tables, BBQs, utility pedestal; slides clearance, roof clearance, utility areas access. USE BACKUP CAMERA, AND STOP AND VISUALLY CHECK, IF THERE IS ANY QUESTION OF BACKING INTO SOMETHING.
Take TPMS receiver off of truck window and turn off
Level trailer side-to-side
Check electrical pedestal for safety with non-contact electrical detector, spray connections with electrical contact cleaner, hook up power cable, check trailer for electrical safety with non-contact voltage detector. Turn on main breakers inside trailer. Check EMS readings
Install wheel chocks/clamps
Put 4 (or more) leveling pads under each front landing gear foot pad. Lower landing gear and raise hitch plate off of hitch.
Untie truck cargo net. Disconnect main trailer electrical umbilical from truck. Move hitch catcher bar to open position. Remove emergency brake lanyard from hitch. Disconnect rear camera umbilical from truck. Position truck so that there is no pressure on hitch jaws. Pull handle to free hitch jaws. Pull truck away from trailer.
Stow umbilical cables and emergency brake lanyard on trailer hitch
Install hitch lock
Adjust landing gear to level trailer front/back
Lower rear stabilizers
Set up steps and step support
Put out slides. Install kitchen slide sealing gasket
Connect water supply
Set up satellite dish
Aim rooftop antenna. Do TV OTA channel search on both TV’s
Move boxes, chairs, appliances, etc. to set up for living

Click to expand...

danemayer said:

I've attached a departure checklist in MS Word format. And here's a list of arrival & setup steps. After you make your version, perhaps you could share the finished document.



Arrival & Setup

• When you think you're correctly positioned on the site, before unhitching, check placement of utilities to make sure the power cord will reach the pedestal, the water hose will reach the UDC, the sewer drain is within reach. Reposition as necessary.
• Set the parking brake on the truck.
• Lower the tailgate.
• Disconnect the trailer cable and breakaway cable from the truck.
• Extend the front landing jacks and watch the pin box as the truck rises. When you see the top plate (on the pin box) lift slightly above the bottom plate (top surface of the hitch), stop extending.
• Wiggle the hitch to double check that it's unloaded.
• Move the TS3/BD3 lock lever to the full-forward position to open the hitch jaws. (TrailerSaver specific)
• Double check that the tailgate is down and cables are out of the way.
• Carefully pull the truck forward far enough to close the tailgate.
• Coil the cables and tuck into the pin box area.
• Plug the power cord into the Electrical Management System/Surge Protector (EMS). (Get one if you don't have one).
• Turn off the 50 Amp breaker at the pedestal.
• Plug the EMS into the pedestal.
• Turn the 50 Amp breaker on. (Takes about 2 minutes for power to come on).
• Press the AUTO-LEVEL button on the controller. The auto-level will lower the front of the coach a bit and then start leveling. Wait for it to completely finish.
• If using wheel chocks, put them into position.
• Open the coach and check for anything out of position in the bedroom. If ok, extend the bedroom slide.
• Open the doorside slide part way. Check for anything out of position that might get caught. Finish extending the slide.
• Don't open the off-door-side slide until the water and sewer lines are hooked up.
• Install the water pressure regulator (mandatory), water hose, and filter (if you have one).
• Turn on the water faucet and check for leaks.
• Connect the sewer hose. (Get an external gate valve and clear flush king extension for the sewer pipe outlet).
• Open the gray #1 and gray #2 dump valves (or leave them closed - personal choice).
• Take a quick look to make sure the Water Heater Bypass Valve is in the normal operating position.
• DO NOT open the black tank dump valve. Only open that valve when the tank is full or nearly full.
• Check for obstructions inside and then extend the off-door-side slide.
• Open the kitchen sink faucet and check for cold water coming out of both cold and hot water settings. Run the hot water setting for 10-15 seconds to make sure there's water in the Hot Water Tank (If you didn't check the Water Heater Bypass Valve, this is not meaningful.)
• Turn on the Electric switch for the Hot Water Heater. (If you do this with no water in the tank, you'll burn out the element in a very short time.)
• Check the battery charge indicator. On shore power it will read 4 lights. If it drops to less than 4 while on shore power, you need to investigate.
• Leave the water pump switch OFF if you are hooked up to city water. If using the pump, be aware that it should run only when you have a faucet open. If it runs with all faucets closed, you must investigate right away.
• Check that the refrigerator switched to electric mode (if you had it running on LP while towing). If it's in AUTO mode it will switch automatically when shore power comes on.
• Carefully open the refrigerator doors to check of anything is going to fall out or has spilled.
• Carefully open cabinet doors to check if anything is going to fall out.
• Unstrap and position chairs.
• If using the TV antenna, raise the antenna and turn on the signal booster. Set the TV menu to AIR and do an auto scan for local stations.
• If using cable, connect the park cable outlet to the cable connector in the UDC. Then turn the signal booster off. Set the TV menu to CABLE and run the auto scan for available channels.

Click to expand...